Warren Branch

[MrWolf]

 

There's always a way around these things:

 

Obtain measurements of popular 7mm scale wheels and bearings as appropriate to the model.

 

Design the inside of the axle boxes to suit.

 

Create rest of model with your usual aircraft quality engineering.

 

Offer kit sans wheels, recommending the type, Slaters for instance that you worked from, or offer to supply inclusive at £X.

 

I suspect that if you have the space and money for an O scale layout with the type of detail you can offer even in 4mm, buying a set of wheels is already factored into the hobby budget or is possibly insignificant.

 

A safe way forward would be to share the pictures of the CC7 with the 7mm areas of the site, plus the scratch/ kit building threads and asking if anyone would be interested in a scaled up version?

 

Apologies if I'm stating the obvious.

 

Also, rest in peace Donald Sutherland. Hope you're drinking wine, eating cheese and catching some rays whilst Moriarty fixes the busted tank.

 

[Fishplate]

15 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Apologies if I've fallen into an irony trap here.

 

No irony; I genuinely hadn't come across that before. Thank you for explaining. As elsewhere in life, if you know, you know. But if you don't, it's nice to be told.

 

I would have calculated approximately by working out the volume of three cylinders (two wheels + axle). But would need to know the wheel and axle diameters to achieve that.

[chuffinghell]

25 minutes ago, Fishplate said:

No irony….

 

32 minutes ago, Fishplate said:

I would have calculated approximately by working out the volume of three cylinders (two wheels + axle).

To be honest I’d just draw it to scale and let solidworks tell me the mass and volume for a given material…..lazy but true

[St Enodoc]

10 hours ago, Fishplate said:

I would have calculated approximately by working out the volume of three cylinders (two wheels + axle). But would need to know the wheel and axle diameters to achieve that.

 

10 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

To be honest I’d just draw it to scale and let solidworks tell me the mass and volume for a given material…..lazy but true

You could do that but for the general case you don't need to know anything about any actual physical object at all.

[GWR57xx]

On 05/07/2024 at 12:53, MrWolf said:

 

There's always a way around these things:

 

Obtain measurements of popular 7mm scale wheels and bearings as appropriate to the model.

 

Design the inside of the axle boxes to suit.

 

Create rest of model with your usual aircraft quality engineering.

 

Offer kit sans wheels, recommending the type, Slaters for instance that you worked from, or offer to supply inclusive at £X.

 

I suspect that if you have the space and money for an O scale layout with the type of detail you can offer even in 4mm, buying a set of wheels is already factored into the hobby budget or is possibly insignificant.

 

A safe way forward would be to share the pictures of the CC7 with the 7mm areas of the site, plus the scratch/ kit building threads and asking if anyone would be interested in a scaled up version?

 

Apologies if I'm stating the obvious.

 

Also, rest in peace Donald Sutherland. Hope you're drinking wine, eating cheese and catching some rays whilst Moriarty fixes the busted tank.

 

When I did my O gauge GWR N6 Coal Wagon I designed it to use Parkside wheels & bearings (621/627) and buffers, 3-link coupling & drawhook (622/623), which as you say adds at least £20+pp to the cost. Parkside was the easy option as they’re easily obtainable from many model shops, and I’ve no experience of any others. They appear to be more than adequate for the job.
 

Then add transfers, another £5+.

 

But in O gauge a standard Dapol van is typically £47 at discounted prices.

 

I’d be interested in an O gauge CC2 if you decide to proceed.

 

 

[chuffinghell]

7 hours ago, GWR57xx said:

When I did my O gauge GWR N6 Coal Wagon I designed it to use Parkside wheels & bearings (621/627) and buffers, 3-link coupling & drawhook (622/623), which as you say adds at least £20+pp to the cost. Parkside was the easy option as they’re easily obtainable from many model shops, and I’ve no experience of any others. They appear to be more than adequate for the job.
 

Then add transfers, another £5+.

 

But in O gauge a standard Dapol van is typically £47 at discounted prices.

 

I’d be interested in an O gauge CC2 if you decide to proceed.

 

 

I’ve recently purchased a Peco O gauge wagon kit to use as a guide for dimensions (buffer height etc) so it is something I’m seriously looking at although I would probably supply the ‘kit’ without any hardware such as wheels/bearings/sprung buffers etc

 

However the first one will be fully built as a test run so I might possibly consider selling the prototype…maybe?

[chuffinghell]

As mentioned previously I have been thinking of resurrecting an abandoned project, namely an attempt to recreate this

 

The main reason for resurrecting this project is due to buying an Andrew Barclay from a well known auctioning site that arrived with damage to the cab

 

 

So instead of returning it I destroyed dismantled it and stripped off the paint

 

 

I had the cab printed by shapeways a well know ‘digital manufacturing platform based in the Netherlands’ well before I had my own printer (and before their prices became ridiculous)

 

 

As with all my projects I don’t expect to make any rapid progress

And yes I am aware the the 701 in the first photo is an incorrect reproduction of the actual 701 but I like it and fancied modelling it

 

Edited August 4 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

Additional

 

Its not going to be an accurate reproduction of the reproduction

 

Rule one applies in this case

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Looking forward to this project. Into the unknown!

[MrWolf]

I like the look of this, it might even have me revive my Avonside project...

[chuffinghell]

2 hours ago, Bluemonkey presents.... said:

Looking forward to this project. Into the unknown!

don’t get your hopes up 🤣

[1466]

15 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

As mentioned previously I have been thinking of resurrecting an abandoned project, namely an attempt to recreate this

 

The main reason for resurrecting this project is due to buying an Andrew Barclay from a well known auctioning site that arrived with damage to the cab

 

 

So instead of returning it I destroyed dismantled it and stripped off the paint

 

 

I had the cab printed by shapeways well before I had my own printer (and before their prices became ridiculous)

 

 

As with all my projects I don’t expect to make any rapid progress

And yes I am aware the the 701 in the first photo is an incorrect reproduction of the actual 701 but I like it and fancied modelling it

I’ve heard that Shapeways has gone into Administration. Is that correct ?

[chuffinghell]

5 hours ago, 1466 said:

I’ve heard that Shapeways has gone into Administration. Is that correct ?

I stopped using the ‘digital manufacturing platform based in the Netherlands’ once I bought my own printer so I haven’t been on their website for a few years now

 

Edited August 4 by chuffinghell

[MrWolf]

2 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I stopped using them once I bought my own printer so I haven’t been on their website for a few years now

 

I looked at some Dean 8'6" bogies a few years back, thought they looked rather crude and the prices Ouch! 

Bought the last few metal ones from 247 instead and a few more detailed ones from a most generous chap on here.

 

I did fancy having the PW brake you designed but it was rather expensive once the postage was factored in as well.

[chuffinghell]

1 hour ago, MrWolf said:

 

I looked at some Dean 8'6" bogies a few years back, thought they looked rather crude and the prices Ouch! 

Bought the last few metal ones from 247 instead and a few more detailed ones from a most generous chap on here.

 

I did fancy having the PW brake you designed but it was rather expensive once the postage was factored in as well.

I found the postage often cost more than the item being purchased
 

I’m planning on revisiting the PW brake at some point

[chuffinghell]

Well I’ve gotten further than I did last time I tried to model 701

 

The chassis is in primer 😮

 

Had to use an etch primer unfortunately* because the only other I’ve got is plastic primer from that well known automotive shop (the one that fits windscreen wiper blades for people that are incapable of basic car maintenance)

 

 

*It’s thicker than I would have liked but certainly not as thick as the paint that was already on it from the well know model railway supplier that sadly closed
 

I also found some H****y dummy screw link couplings in my bits box so I’ve opened up the hole in bufferbeam and repainted the couplings

 

 

I appreciate it seems daft removing black paint to repaint it black but as previously mentioned the thickness of the paint was shocking and it was also too glossy….plus it was chipped in places and there is no way I could have touched it up successfully

 

 

Edited August 4 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

Having looked at the cab I’ve decided that I’m going to attempt to print a better one with more detail

 

After applying primer I noticed a lot of surface imperfections that I struggled to correct 

 

It was originally drawn using primitive software and the print itself isn’t great

I was being lazy thinking I would get away with what I had but I might be able to print one much better.

 

Unfortunately the original drawings have been lost so I will have to redraw it

 

At least it gives me the opportunity to add more details like rivets etc

 

 

[chuffinghell]

I’ve invoked rule one again and replaced the short chimney with a more convincing GWR style from a pannier….

 

 

….how I ended up with a pannier chimney in my bits box I don’t know, waste not want not

 

Don’t care if it’s wrong mainly because its been glued on with solvent now

 

Just need to try to sand away the join

 

Edited August 4 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

Put a bit of primer on so I can see where needs sanding or filling, I’ll strip it off once I’ve got it right

 

not perfect and I can still see the join

 

 

[Fishplate]

On 03/08/2024 at 15:43, chuffinghell said:

So instead of returning it I destroyed dismantled it and stripped off the paint

 

I've not paint stripped a plastic model before. Please could you share what you used to do that so effectively? 

 

This looks like an interesting project! 

 

13 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

chimney.... from a pannier….

 

Some GWR followers will be traumatised 🫣

[chuffinghell]

10 hours ago, Fishplate said:

I've not paint stripped a plastic model before. Please could you share what you used to do that so effectively? 

 

I submerged the parts in 99.9% Isopropyl, left it overnight and the next day used cotton buds to wipe away the paint

 

I’ve forgotten who it was that suggested it but once I remember he’ll get a mention (it’s only right)

 

10 hours ago, Fishplate said:

Some GWR followers will be traumatised 🫣

Don’t tell anyone but that’s the idea 🤪

[chuffinghell]

Filled and sanded it as best as I could, removed the guide coat back to bare plastic and applied an even coat of primer

 

I can still see the join 🙄 but it will do

 

I glued up the handrails while they were on the body then removed them to give them a coat of etch primer in the hope it won’t rub off the brass

 

Handrails glued in place, once I’ve drawn up and printed the cab I’ll give the whole lot another light coat of primer

 

 

Brass handrail knobs and wire look much better than the plastic handrails it came with….in my opinion of course

 

[57xx]

2 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I submerged the parts in 99.9% Isopropyl, left it overnight and the next day used cotton buds to wipe away the paint

 

I’ve forgotten who it was that suggested it but once I remember he’ll get a mention (it’s only right)

 

Not sure if I suggested it per se, but I did post a short while back about stripping the roof of my Fruit C. I used 90% IPA and a soft tooth brush after soaking for an hour to get the Vallejo acrylic paint off it. I suspect you could probably dilute the IPA further (mine was 90% from the bottle) and still get a result, but this was my first and only time I've had to strip a paint job, thankfully, so I've not had a chance to experiment.

[chuffinghell]

16 minutes ago, 57xx said:

 

Not sure if I suggested it per se, but I did post a short while back about stripping the roof of my Fruit C. I used 90% IPA and a soft tooth brush after soaking for an hour to get the Vallejo acrylic paint off it. I suspect you could probably dilute the IPA further (mine was 90% from the bottle) and still get a result, but this was my first and only time I've had to strip a paint job, thankfully, so I've not had a chance to experiment.

I just thought it best to leave it soaking overnight because I assumed that the factory paint would be harder to shift

[57xx]

13 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I just thought it best to leave it soaking overnight because I assumed that the factory paint would be harder to shift

As long as it worked, thats the main thing. I specifically qualified the paint i was stripping as I've not tried it on any other brand or factory finishes, so what works for Vallejo, may not work for other paints.