RMweb Gold 57xx Posted June 22 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22 Looking great Chris. That Vallejo 'Concrete' is a good colour for representing wood! 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted June 22 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22 1 minute ago, 57xx said: Looking great Chris. That Vallejo 'Concrete' is a good colour for representing wood! It won’t be that colour by time I’ve finished weathering it but I find it’s a good base and as you say a good representation of new untreated timber. It looks closer to timber than concrete 1 3 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted June 22 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22 (edited) 4 hours ago, chuffinghell said: Floor fitted, top edge masked and interior airbrushed with Vallejo ‘concrete’ Interior masked off and exterior airbrushed with Vallejo ‘Panzer grey’ The T3 had Thomas Brakes with a crank handle each side at one end. These were made using Markits WD handrail knobs and brass rod Test fit To be continued…. Lovely print and build, Chris. And good to see the Thomas brake modelled. It is not my impression that the Thoams brakes lasted that long before replacement, though. But I may be wrong. What period are you aiming at for this one? Edited June 22 by Mikkel To clarify 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted June 22 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22 (edited) 21 hours ago, Mikkel said: Lovely print and build, Chris. And good to see the Thomas brake modelled. It is not my imperssion that they lasted that long before replacement, though. But I may be wrong. What period are you aiming at for this one? Thank you I like to try and make sure anything I produce is as good a quality as I can and also make sure all the print supports are removed before curing so that only a little bit of sanding is required. Nothing worse than receiving a print with the supports still attached after being fully cured because they can be very difficult to remove without causing damage. I made the mistake of originally ignoring the Thomas brake and designed it for DC brakes But with the help of @MrWolf and@Bluemonkey presents.... providing some very useful photos the T3 was in fact fitted with Thomas brakes but as you rightly say it wasn't a system that lasted long I obviously sent anyone who had previously bought an incorrect design a correct replacement FOC Neither myself or Bluemonkey could find any evidence that the T3 was converted to DC brakes, however the T4 was virtually identical other than being slightly wider and modified to suit DCIII brakes As for dates I believe the T3 was originally built in 1896-1901 (22 in total) and the T4 followed in 1907-1908 (only 2 in total) so both versions are far too early for my layout being based in the mid thirties but ‘Warren Branch’ is fictional so I’m sure I could come up with a valid excuse plausible reason for them to have one….maybe?…..rule 1 Edited June 23 by chuffinghell 16 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted June 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23 Thanks Chris. I have a plan to some day build a layout showing the rebuilding of Farthing station. I suppose this sort of wagon wouldn't be amiss in such a situation... 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post chuffinghell Posted June 23 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted June 23 (edited) Transfers were produced by @railtec-models from a combination of my drawing and a photo @MrWolf found the original drawing above with the incorrect braking system and I’d also drawn it the wrong way round (I’m only human) It was @MrWolf that first suggested the T3 wagon and as always was very helpful during the research stage also finding the photo above Transfers applied once the gloss coat was dry Although close to the photo decided to invoke Rule 1 and change ‘READING’ to ‘Return to Reading’ Mainly because I had already done the CC7 allocation as ‘Shrewsbury’ and thought it might look a little odd having them paired together with different allocations….the excuse being that the wagon was on loan from Reading and would be returned ….plus I think it looks better with cursive font Rule 1 is my best friend 😉 Edited June 23 by chuffinghell 31 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted June 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23 On 22/06/2024 at 14:45, chuffinghell said: As for dates I believe the T3 was originally built in 1896-1901 (22 in total) and the T4 followed in 1907-1908 (only 2 in total) so both versions are far too early for my layout being based in the mid thirties but ‘Warren Branch’ is fictional so I’m sure I could come up with a valid excuse plausible reason for them to have one….maybe?…..rule 1 I'm sure the T3's probably lasted 30 odd years. If in doubt, you could widen the body for a T4 or T7, or even widen the body and change the trussing to angle instead of bar for a T9/10 (latter with self-contained buffers). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted June 23 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23 (edited) 52 minutes ago, 57xx said: I'm sure the T3's probably lasted 30 odd years. If in doubt, you could widen the body for a T4 or T7, or even widen the body and change the trussing to angle instead of bar for a T9/10 (latter with self-contained buffers). These are being researched, however, I’m unable to find photos of the T4 (probably because only two were made) so not sure about the transfers required I’m thinking of doing the T5 at some point As far as the T9/10 I would first have to source suitable buffer heads that are readily available Edited June 23 by chuffinghell 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted June 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23 42 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: These are being researched, however, I’m unable to find photos of the T4 (probably because only two were made) so not sure about the transfers required I’m thinking of doing the T5 at some point As far as the T9/10 I would first have to source suitable buffer heads that are readily available The T9 would be the same buffers as the others. For the T10 the best bet would be for self contained buffers would be Dave Frank's ones from Lanarkshire Model Supplies. They would just need a 2mm hole in the buffer beam. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted June 23 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23 (edited) 8 minutes ago, 57xx said: ones from Lanarkshire Model Supplies. They would just need a 2mm hole in the buffer beam. Not a big fan of white metal castings so I’d rather it be part of the print and only requiring steel buffer heads but out of interest which one specifically? Edited June 23 by chuffinghell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted June 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23 You'd need B022. http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshiremodelsandsupplieswebsite_083.htm The quality is excellent and if you're worried about robustness, I'd say they are easily as strong as the resin. These buffers are many people's go-to replacement for kits. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post chuffinghell Posted June 23 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted June 23 Matt varnish applied and Thomas brake crank handles fitted 12 4 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post chuffinghell Posted June 24 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted June 24 Wanted an ‘in service’ weathering so just give it a spray of frame dirt and because I’m weird I spray my wheels and couplings separately to get full coverage Adding drops of grey to the original ‘concrete’ and painting a few planks, adding a few more drops and painting a few more and so on then gave the whole lot a dusting with dark earth weathering powder but it was too dark so I then went over it again with white power (weathering powder! nothing illegal!) followed by nuln oil in the grooves Fully assembled Paired up with the CC7 Thrown on the layout 17 7 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted Tuesday at 17:06 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted Tuesday at 17:06 (edited) Unfortunately being on holiday allows my mind to wonder too much and I wondered if I could do my CC2 in O gauge, I don’t know why?… …Although I didn’t realise how much more expensive wheel sets are for O gauge which is kinda putting me off No doubt this thought will be rattling around in my head until I talk myself out of it 🤪 It’s strange because usually when we come to Wales I start wanting to model narrow gauge, O-16.5 perhaps? Edited Tuesday at 17:11 by chuffinghell 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluemonkey presents.... Posted Wednesday at 07:37 Share Posted Wednesday at 07:37 14 hours ago, chuffinghell said: I wondered if I could do my CC2 in O gauge, I don’t know why?… …Although I didn’t realise how much more expensive wheel sets are for O gauge which is kinda putting me off No doubt this thought will be rattling around in my head until I talk myself out of it 🤪 Yep everything is at least twice as plenty plus 5%. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted Wednesday at 19:20 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted Wednesday at 19:20 11 hours ago, Bluemonkey presents.... said: Yep everything is at least twice as plenty plus 5%. A bit unfair for those modelling O gauge. The wheels are 4.5 times the price of the equivalent in OO gauge!….scandalous! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted Wednesday at 20:28 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted Wednesday at 20:28 (edited) I’m very tempted to resurrect the 701 project… …my previous attempt only came to a halt due to me being clumsy and dropping the loco body on a hard floor. I got a little disheartened at the time and sold the chassis on eBay, However, I’ve managed to get hold of another Hattons Andrew Barclay (16” Cylinder) to use as the donor… …assuming all is well when it arrives my intentions are to replace the cab and try and make it look like the above I believe the above is ‘as preserved’ and possibly not a genuine GWR loco but I just like it I just hope I’ve still got the replacement cab drawings but if not it will keep me out of trouble 😆 Edited Wednesday at 22:30 by chuffinghell 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted Wednesday at 23:55 RMweb Premium Share Posted Wednesday at 23:55 4 hours ago, chuffinghell said: A bit unfair for those modelling O gauge. The wheels are 4.5 times the price of the equivalent in OO gauge!….scandalous! There's more than 5 times the volume of material so that seems fair! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishplate Posted Thursday at 08:45 Share Posted Thursday at 08:45 On 02/07/2024 at 18:06, chuffinghell said: …Although I didn’t realise how much more expensive wheel sets are for O gauge which is kinda putting me of On 03/07/2024 at 08:37, Bluemonkey presents.... said: Yep everything is at least twice as plenty plus 5%. 13 hours ago, chuffinghell said: The wheels are 4.5 times the price of the equivalent in OO gauge!….scandalous! 8 hours ago, St Enodoc said: There's more than 5 times the volume of material so that seems fair! Someone has been busy using the π function on their calculator. . . . 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted Thursday at 09:36 RMweb Premium Share Posted Thursday at 09:36 49 minutes ago, Fishplate said: Someone has been busy using the π function on their calculator. . . . Nope. Just the cube of the ratio between the two scales. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted Thursday at 11:09 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted Thursday at 11:09 Never considered the material volume I was just surprised by the price difference….I’ll get my coat 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted Thursday at 11:27 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted Thursday at 11:27 (edited) 2 hours ago, Fishplate said: Someone has been busy using the π function on their calculator. . . . Not me! I was just moaning about the prices 😂 I’d still like to try and print an O gauge version of the CC2 though out of curiosity just to see if I can I’d have to redo the drawings though as just scaling it up wouldn’t be the right thing to do Edited Thursday at 11:28 by chuffinghell 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishplate Posted Thursday at 14:29 Share Posted Thursday at 14:29 2 hours ago, chuffinghell said: I’d still like to try and print an O gauge version of the CC2 though out of curiosity just to see if I can GFI . Look forward to seeing the results. 4 hours ago, St Enodoc said: Nope. Just the cube of the ratio between the two scales. Not come across that before. Will leave you and @chuffinghell to discuss. . . . 😬 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted Thursday at 23:57 RMweb Premium Share Posted Thursday at 23:57 9 hours ago, Fishplate said: Not come across that before. Will leave you and @chuffinghell to discuss. . . . 😬 Assuming that you're being serious, here goes: The linear ratio between 7mm scale and 4mm scale is 7/4 = 1.75. The ratio of areas is therefore 1.75 x 1.75 = 3.0625 and the ratio of volumes is 1.75 x 1.75 x 1.75 = 5.359375. Apologies if I've fallen into an irony trap here. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted yesterday at 05:42 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted yesterday at 05:42 Similar to my calculations I couldn’t calculate it properly because anything over ten means removing my shoes and socks, however 76.2 / 43.5 = bl**dy expensive 🤪 1 1 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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