Unusual water noise outside house

[polybear]

They work well provided the impact is applied

to the driver not to the hand holding it

 

1.  Select the correct rotation (loosen or tighten) by twisting the end; it's very rare to use them to tighten things in my experience - a real risk of stripping threads.  I usually put the end against a piece of scrap wood and push downwards - you'll see the end turn slightly, hopefully in the direction you want.

2.  Put the correct size bit in the holder.

3.  Put the tool against the screw, push downwards a bit and at the same time give it a little twist anticlockwise to take up any slack in the mechanism (this last bit makes a big difference).  Then clump it with a soft faced mallet.

 

99% of the time it's job done.

The other 1% is buggered screw head or snapped screw.

 

HTH

[pauliebanger]

It may seem obvious, but don't hit an electric or pneumatic inpact driver with any sort of hammer, just let the tool do the work.

[w124bob]

Duct tape the only tool you'll ever need, approved by Newton Heath fitters.

[Jonboy]

1.  Select the correct rotation (loosen or tighten) by twisting the end; it's very rare to use them to tighten things in my experience - a real risk of stripping threads.  I usually put the end against a piece of scrap wood and push downwards - you'll see the end turn slightly, hopefully in the direction you want.

2.  Put the correct size bit in the holder.

3.  Put the tool against the screw, push downwards a bit and at the same time give it a little twist anticlockwise to take up any slack in the mechanism (this last bit makes a big difference).  Then clump it with a soft faced mallet.

 

99% of the time it's job done.

The other 1% is buggered screw head or snapped screw.

 

HTH

If using in a confined space make sure there is sufficient space for the length of removed bolt, the tool AND your hand behind it, or be ready to stop and change hand position as soon as you have broken the “seal” holding the boot in place.....

[polybear]

If using in a confined space make sure there is sufficient space for the length of removed bolt, the tool AND your hand behind it, or be ready to stop and change hand position as soon as you have broken the “seal” holding the boot in place.....

 

Don't understand this one - an impact driver is used to break the initial "lock"; then normal tools (screwdriver, socket wrench etc) take over. Hands won't be behind the driver, unless you fancy clumping them with a mallet; they're wrapped around the driver in order to impart some twisting force

[Jonboy]

If your careful and methodical yes, if your impatient and keep going with the tool in hand maybe not

 

Guess which category I belong in...

[JeremyC]

Surprised no one has suggested the simple answer to the stuck screw in the shut off valve (often called a toby in Scotland) access cover; drill off the screw head.

Edited May 20, 2018 by JeremyC

[Peter Kazmierczak]

Duct tape the only tool you'll ever need, approved by Newton Heath fitters.

 

And NASA..........

[Captain Kernow]

Well, having decided that I could do with an impact driver of my own for some other jobs that I have in mind, I went out and bought one this morning. After it had charged up this afternoon, I went out and tackled the screw.

 

The impact driver sorted it out at the first attempt. What a superb bit of kit! My thanks to those who have recommended their use.

 

This is the screw (it isn't broken off, this is its proper length):

 

I then opened the flap and looked inside. All there was to see, was a rusty 'tap' handle and a slightly damp bottom of the 'pit'. No water gushing out anywhere, so that must be elsewhere. The noise, which is still present, seems to be coming from an adjacent area, close by:

 

Looking at the flap, it appears that it was designed to take that small screw:

 

The plan now is to call the water company tomorrow and see what they say.

 

 

[stewartingram]

I always smear screw threads with copper grease when re-assembling. My car must be the easiest one ever to work on!

 

 

Stewart

[Captain Kernow]

I always smear screw threads with copper grease when re-assembling. My car must be the easiest one ever to work on!

 

 

Stewart

That is what I shall do, if I decide to reinstate it!

[chris p bacon]

I then opened the flap and looked inside. All there was to see, was a rusty 'tap' handle and a slightly damp bottom of the 'pit'. No water gushing out anywhere, so that must be elsewhere. The noise, which is still present, seems to be coming from an adjacent area, close by:

 

 

 

I was taught that you should be able to see the entire stopcock in that hole, all the muck and detritus should be cleaned out.

 

Have you tried turning the stopcock?   In theory if the leak is on your side then turning the stopcock will stop the noise.

 

Edit to add that if the water company do find a leak then chances are they'll change the stopcock housing for a modern plastic one.

Edited May 20, 2018 by chris p bacon

[MarkC]

I have to say that I've never seen a stop cock cover for domestic use supplied with a securing arrangement like that. As has been said already, you should be able to get to the isolating tap quickly in an emergency. Most strange.

 

At least it came out OK

 

Did you actually close the valve to see if the noise stopped? If the noise doesn't stop, at least you know that the problem isn't going to be yours, as the fault is on the supply side of the valve

[brianusa]

Well, having decided that I could do with an impact driver of my own for some other jobs that I have in mind, I went out and bought one this morning. After it had charged up this afternoon, I went out and tackled the screw.

 

The impact driver sorted it out at the first attempt. What a superb bit of kit! My thanks to those who have recommended their use.

 

This is the screw (it isn't broken off, this is its proper length):

Screw_01.jpg

 

I then opened the flap and looked inside. All there was to see, was a rusty 'tap' handle and a slightly damp bottom of the 'pit'. No water gushing out anywhere, so that must be elsewhere. The noise, which is still present, seems to be coming from an adjacent area, close by:

Stop cock_01.jpg

 

Looking at the flap, it appears that it was designed to take that small screw:

Stop cock flap_01.jpg

 

The plan now is to call the water company tomorrow and see what they say.

 

The suspense is killing me!

 

Brian.

[polybear]

Well, having decided that I could do with an impact driver of my own for some other jobs that I have in mind, I went out and bought one this morning. After it had charged up this afternoon, I went out and tackled the screw.

 

The impact driver sorted it out at the first attempt. What a superb bit of kit! My thanks to those who have recommended their use.

 

 

Charged up??

What's wrong with one of these for seven quid:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p90581?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg6SrzoaV2wIVir_tCh2E2ATOEAQYBiABEgI82vD_BwE

[Jeff Smith]

Arrangements are different in the US, or certainly in Georgia. I had a major water leak which I could hear in my basement. The house stop cock was downstream, the leak was a broken pipe (tree root) just outside the basement. Unfortunately only the water authority can turn off the stop cock by the road (presumably because they own it) so had to wait for them to come out before a plumber could replace the pipe.....The plumber then had 'permission' to turn it on again!

[Captain Kernow]

Did you actually close the valve to see if the noise stopped? If the noise doesn't stop, at least you know that the problem isn't going to be yours, as the fault is on the supply side of the valve

I tried turning it by hand, but couldn't get it to move. It occurred to me that there are pronged tools with long 'T' handles that you can use on these?

[chris p bacon]

They're just a extension handle, if it doesn't move then it's unlikely to do so easily with the extension.

[Dunsignalling]

I tried turning it by hand, but couldn't get it to move. It occurred to me that there are pronged tools with long 'T' handles that you can use on these?

Available from most builders/plumbers/DIY suppliers, Tim.

 

B&Q (for example) have them for the princely sum of £6.34. Search "stop cock key".

 

Good luck

 

John

[Dunsignalling]

They're just a extension handle, if it doesn't move then it's unlikely to do so easily with the extension.

In my experience, the hole is often too narrow for one to get a decent grip on the tap.

 

John

Edited May 21, 2018 by Dunsignalling

[chris p bacon]

In my experience, the hole is often too narrow for one to get a decent grip on the tap.

 

John

 

 

The real problem is that homeowners never try the tap until it's needed so it gets caked in scale (internally) when they really need to turn it off they then need lots more force.

 

I check both mine every couple of months and can turn them with 2 fingers.

[Captain Kernow]

Well, that's all been reported to the water company leak reporting line. The operator took details and will pass it on to the mobile inspectors, who will investigate 'when they're next in the area'. I may not hear back for a few days.

 

I might well get one of those stop cock handles, though, and gently try it on the tap in the ground (might give the tap a good soaking with WD40 first).

 

Thanks again to everyone for the advice and comments so far.

The real problem is that homeowners never try the tap until it's needed so it gets caked in scale (internally) when they really need to turn it off they then need lots more force.

 

I check both mine every couple of months and can turn them with 2 fingers.

That's very good advice and once this is all over, I shall try to do the same!

[chris p bacon]

Well, that's all been reported to the water company leak reporting line. The operator took details and will pass it on to the mobile inspectors, who will investigate 'when they're next in the area'. I may not hear back for a few days.

 

I might well get one of those stop cock handles, though, and gently try it on the tap in the ground (might give the tap a good soaking with WD40 first).

 

Thanks again to everyone for the advice and comments so far.

 

 

 

It's the internals which will be stuck with scale, or the rubber seating in the packing box.

 

Don't use WD40 as it might well affect the rubber.

 

I'd clean out the box and expose the tap, then hit it with some hot water (kettle) it might 'jar' it on it's seating

[Captain Kernow]

It's the internals which will be stuck with scale, or the rubber seating in the packing box.

 

Don't use WD40 as it might well affect the rubber.

 

I'd clean out the box and expose the tap, then hit it with some hot water (kettle) it might 'jar' it on it's seating

OK, right you are, thanks for that.

 

A nice little job for after I've done the shopping!

[Captain Kernow]

Well, typical, isn't it?

 

As the water company said that they wouldn't be sending anyone around for a few days, I went out this morning to do some shopping.

 

While I was out, CTMK texted to say that the water company inspector was there!

 

The good news is that the fault is apparently not on our property, but they will have to dig the road up outside our house and including the end of our drive, where the outside stop cock is. Hopefully they won't disturb a newly-installed gravel border and the lawn, but they probably will anyway.