Johnson's Klear

[landscapes]

Hi

 

Does anyone have any explanations as to the problem I have recently had using Johnson's Klear?

 

I have a small amount left in a Bottle of Klear, the old original formula that was discontinued some years ago, my bottle is at least six years old.

 

I have recently changed the identity of a new Hornby B1 and wanted to apply a coat of clear to the tender sides and locomotive body at the same time sealing the new Fox Transfers.

 

When I applied the Klear with and half inch flat brush it went onto the plastic like oil onto water is the best description and left areas uncovered.

 

I have used Klear many times in the past on many of my models and never experienced this before, I had to remove it all using a diluted ammonia solution which also removed all my cab and tender decals.

 

Any ideas why this happened on this particular model.

 

Regards

 

David 

[Pete the Elaner]

Sorry to hear that.

I can't answer your question but I hope it did not damage the plastic.

[amdaley]

Hi

 

Does anyone have any explanations as to the problem I have recently had using Johnson's Klear?

 

I have a small amount left in a Bottle of Klear, the old original formula that was discontinued some years ago, my bottle is at least six years old.

 

I have recently changed the identity of a new Hornby B1 and wanted to apply a coat of clear to the tender sides and locomotive body at the same time sealing the new Fox Transfers.

 

When I applied the Klear with and half inch flat brush it went onto the plastic like oil onto water is the best description and left areas uncovered.

 

I have used Klear many times in the past on many of my models and never experienced this before, I had to remove it all using a diluted ammonia solution which also removed all my cab and tender decals.

 

Any ideas why this happened on this particular model.

 

Regards

 

David 

 

I can only suggest that the plastic was dirty or had hand grease on it.

Wast it thoroughly in warn soapy water & try again.

[landscapes]

Sorry to hear that.

I can't answer your question but I hope it did not damage the plastic.

 

Hi

 

No damage to the plastic at all, just have to re-do the decals to the cab side.

 

Regards

 

David

[landscapes]

I can only suggest that the plastic was dirty or had hand grease on it.

Wast it thoroughly in warn soapy water & try again.

Hi

 

i must admit that crossed my mind as well, but the model was straight out of the box, although it has now been washed when I removed the Klear with a diluted ammonia solution.

 

Im just very reluctant to try it agin incase I have the same problem, as the B1 will be weathered I might just seal the decals with a matt varnish spray on this occasion.

 

Regards

 

David

[decauville1126]

 

Im just very reluctant to try it agin incase I have the same problem, as the B1 will be weathered I might just seal the decals with a matt varnish spray on this occasion.

 

 

The 'new' ' current' version of Klear seems to do the same, just has a slight pinkish tinge in the bottle and a perfume aroma when you spray it. You might find this helpful:

 

http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/klear-ing-things-up.html

 

Just make sure you get the Pledge Multi-surface wax. I understand it's not wax as we know it but acrylic.

 

I was delighted when I had a go as a novice with it and now use it extensively. Perhaps your experience will serve as a caution to anyone who finds an 'old' version at a local car boot sale.

[amdaley]

Hi

 

i must admit that crossed my mind as well, but the model was straight out of the box, although it has now been washed when I removed the Klear with a diluted ammonia solution.

 

Im just very reluctant to try it agin incase I have the same problem, as the B1 will be weathered I might just seal the decals with a matt varnish spray on this occasion.

 

Regards

 

David

 

The model would have been handled by whoever packed it & their hands could have been quite greasy from handling other items.

I would just use a spray can varnish or use the brush to coat it.

[Il Grifone]

It sounds like it's past its 'use by' date. The late time I used mine it was less than successful, but I didn't investigate further.

Edited December 14, 2017 by Il Grifone

[polybear]

I can only suggest that the plastic was dirty or had hand grease on it.

Wast it thoroughly in warn soapy water & try again.

Many brands of washing up liquid contain lanolin or similar, so watch out that this doesn't cause any issues.

HTH

[dhjgreen]

Better using a cream cleaner and toothbrush

[Siberian Snooper]

I would test the Klear on something else first, just too make sure that it's ok before trying again.

[31A]

I've had that happen once or twice; strangely enough once was on the side of a Hornby B1's tender!  I suspect it may be something like a silicon residue on the side of the model from the factory moulding and / or painting process (if they actually do paint black RTR locos), or as mentioned above grease from handling.  I was able to rectify it by applying further coats of the Klear, although that could result in the model being more glossy than you'd originally intended.  It might be better to degrease the model first, by wiping over with clean white spirit for example, although I must admit I haven't actually tried that.

[PhilJ W]

Did you give the bottle of Klear a good shake before using it?

[31A]

Erm, no ... 

[Campaman]

I have a bottle of Klear that must be at least 8 years old and I have no problem with that at all, so I would say that as suggested its some residue on the model not the Klear that's the problem.

[Prometheus]

I have a bottle of Klear that must be at least 8 years old and I have no problem with that at all, so I would say that as suggested its some residue on the model not the Klear that's the problem.

Ditto. Sorry to hear of your woes but I'd guess it was something already on the model rather than the Klear itself.

 

Tony

[Broadway Clive]

The only time I've had anything similar happen has been with the over use of water. Although its sometimes useful to dip the brush into water to smooth out a patch of Klear that is drying too quickly with ripples or other blemishes, if too much water remains in the brush the next dip into the Klear may be grossly over diluted and produce globules as if the surface is greasy. 

 

Another problem I had with water came after I put some Klear into a screw top jar (to make it easier to dip the brush in). I found that over time it was evaporating so I topped it up with tap water but then I started noticing that bubbles had solidified on the glass making it look rather like snails had been crawling around inside, whilst the liquid itself has eventually become white like milk. It had long lost its varnishing powers by then so I wont be doing that again!

[landscapes]

The 'new' ' current' version of Klear seems to do the same, just has a slight pinkish tinge in the bottle and a perfume aroma when you spray it. You might find this helpful:

 

http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/klear-ing-things-up.html

 

Just make sure you get the Pledge Multi-surface wax. I understand it's not wax as we know it but acrylic.

 

I was delighted when I had a go as a novice with it and now use it extensively. Perhaps your experience will serve as a caution to anyone who finds an 'old' version at a local car boot sale.

 

Hi 

 

Thanks for the post and information, I have been through this exercise already and it is true although the new version is a milky white colour it dries clear and has exactly the same qualities as the original version.

 

I tried both on an old white plastic coach body and there was no difference between the two versions.

 

Again thanks for taking the time to post some very useful information.

 

Regards

 

David