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Hills of the North - The Last Great Project


LNER4479
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1 hour ago, LNER4479 said:

the wagons can bump and lurch all they like


It’s what wagons do.

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Cruel close up? I've tried to prioritise it for the lines to Central; the wagons can bump and lurch all they like in their way to Dentonholme! That having been said, it's not been possible to maintain a perfect alignment as you might be able to detect. But the coaches shown do at least seem to be capable of staying on the track as they get pushed through.

A prototype photo with an equivalent degree of foreshortening probably wouldn't look much different.

Edited by St Enodoc
speling
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That's all looking rather neat Graham. How do you fix those PL-13 switches to the point motors? I have used hot glue in the past, but it has been known to fail!

And, will you be hooking up a capacitor discharge unit. The internet cable will work better over longer runs if you boost the amps but the circuit must then be controlled with a pulse current! 

 

Regards Shaun

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22 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Utterly conventional - DCC die-hards look away now - with simple on/off switches and stud contact point changing.

 

 

Hooray! 😁

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On 22/07/2024 at 19:47, LNER4479 said:

PXL_20240721_184946714.jpg.5da435e82d85f92fe306a8715bd090c1.jpg

No doubt this panel will have attracted some interest. This is how Upperby MPD (12A) looks semi diagrammatically. Utterly conventional - DCC die-hards look away now - with simple on/off switches and stud contact point changing. There's just a blank space top left where the (Heljan) turntable roundhouse is - that's subject of its own separate panel to the left of this one, shown in hinged up position in the top photo.

 

Hi Graham,

 

With stud point changing and no direction indication how do you know for sure what's set where? I (think I) get that the power feed switching goes hand in hand as a paired action as long as you're consistent but then there are some turnouts all on the same sector, or what if the doorbell rings, what happens then?

 

This sector control panel is somewhat more complex than my own entire modest branch line affair, where I have 15 stall motors (Cobalts) manually switched from a panel which looks remarkably  like yours in layout. My advantage is I get a feed from the Cobalts to power a directional LED pair placed next to each switch and of course I'm on DCC so only two wires, no sectors!  

 

As per our discussion before I set out building UH, I started out using the same PECO switching solution as yours. Then I learnt that my British Finescale track was not likely to survive sustained attack from repeat solenoid action, hence the switch to Cobalts. Your input was helpful and appreciated all the same.

 

 

Edited by BWsTrains
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On 22/07/2024 at 19:05, Sasquatch said:

How do you fix those PL-13 switches to the point motors?

 

And, will you be hooking up a capacitor discharge unit.

Hi Shaun,

 

The PL-13s are a reasonably snug push fit over the Peco motor in the first place which gets things off to a good start. I hold them in place with my go to fix it - UHU. A blob on each side, apply PL-13 then immediately remove, as both surfaces are non porous. Allow to go 'off' for no more than 90 secs, apply a little more UHU then press firmly together. Works for me.

 

PXL_20240728_235158274.jpg.dd0f25be79a599cc546ca7c167bf81ba.jpg

Re CDU - absolutely! One of the rare Peco products I'm not a fan of, though. I use the Gaugemaster HD unit, seen here top centre in the developing Upperby panel.

 

PXL_20240728_235312615.jpg.764e9ca7b30aad6a7e07f6a4d451d605.jpg

Viewed from the front, the CDU output goes to the connector block top right, underneath the main controller. The other connector block, on the left hand side, is the four outputs plus common from the controller. I can then get at everything easy for onward connections.

 

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Posted (edited)
On 28/07/2024 at 22:44, BWsTrains said:

With stud point changing and no direction indication how do you know for sure what's set where? I (think I) get that the power feed switching goes hand in hand as a paired action as long as you're consistent but then there are some turnouts all on the same sector, or what if the doorbell rings, what happens then?

 

As per our discussion before I set out building UH, I started out using the same PECO switching solution as yours.

 

 

Being slightly glib - if there's a long-winded, tortuous way to wire something up, ignoring a blindingly obvious 'route 1' solution, then I'm yer man.

 

There really is no consistency with point configuration and section switching in what you see; each section and any associated points have been decided according to where I want to isolate locos around the depot, including some sections isolated via the point blades - a no-no to many.

 

No indicator lights - most of the trackwork shown on the panel is right in front of the operator so detection by MK1 human eyeball! In many cases, locos will not move and / or grind to a halt if points are set against them. Plus avoiding the time / expense of fitting each point with detection and lighting circuit. I only have the remains of one lifetime left to finish the layout and there's enough wires heading towards that rather compact panel as it is!

 

Peco point motors, with their instantaneous 'thump!' action, are really designed to work with Peco points (unsurprisingly), which are robust enough to withstand such a movement. Handbuilt points, and other delicate makes, unlikely to survive such an onslaught in the long term.

 

 

First three points are now energised (and working fine) via the studs. But that's not very visual so you'll have to take my word for that!

 

Edited by LNER4479
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43 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

No indicator lights - most of the trackwork shown on the panel is right in front of the operator so detection by MK1 human eyeball! In many cases, locos will not move and / or grind to a halt if points are set against them. Plus avoiding the time / expense of fitting each point with detection and lighting circuit. I only have the remains of one lifetime left to finish the layout and there's enough wires heading towards that rather compact panel as it is!

 

Not teaching you to suck eggs, Graham, but for the benefit of others. Those of us who grew up with "electric pencil" point operation, with two studs per point, developed a sort of muscle memory whereby when setting a route you start from where the movement will begin and touch EVERY stud along the route to where it will end. Good practice whatever system you are using in fact.

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1 hour ago, St Enodoc said:

Not teaching you to suck eggs, Graham, but for the benefit of others. Those of us who grew up with "electric pencil" point operation, with two studs per point, developed a sort of muscle memory whereby when setting a route you start from where the movement will begin and touch EVERY stud along the route to where it will end. Good practice whatever system you are using in fact.

Wot like you did when Barry transported you to Sheffield Exchange?

 

I am in the same camp as Graham, I too only have so much time left and  I too like to keep cost down.  Old fashioned methods that work are best suited to my needs.

 

I understand those who enjoy the electronics side of the hobby, and if they are getting pleasure form it, excellent.

 

By the way Red Leader, the invitation to come and play with Sheff Ex is still for the taking.

 

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46 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Wot like you did when Barry transported you to Sheffield Exchange?

Yes, and like wot I done on all my layouts before I came to Australia and started using GPO keys and then Modratec lever frames instead.

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7 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Not teaching you to suck eggs, Graham, but for the benefit of others. Those of us who grew up with "electric pencil" point operation, with two studs per point, developed a sort of muscle memory whereby when setting a route you start from where the movement will begin and touch EVERY stud along the route to where it will end. Good practice whatever system you are using in fact.

That’s what we’ve always done in the Leeds club, sequence for moving a train as follows:

1.   Starting from the loco position touch every stud to where you want to go

2.   Switch on any links needed and check that the detect light on the controller (a feature of our controllers for about 50 years or so)

3.  Switch on the section where your loco is and check that the detect light does come on

4.    Drive away

The detect lights show green when something is in circuit and red when a shirt circuit is detected -,someone else can explain how it works. Not to be confused with the green LED on many controllers which merely shows that power has been applied.

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30 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

That’s what we’ve always done in the Leeds club

That's where I learned!

 

30 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

2.   Switch on any links needed

5. Switch 'em off afterwards!

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I was brought up on Leeds club stud method. But for my Middleton Road layout I went posh and used push buttons. At a Leeds exhibition I had problems with push buttons sticking and draining the CDU so no point control. After the exhibition I ripped them out and went  back to simple lead and studs. Sometimes the old simple ways are better.

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19 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

when setting a route you start from where the movement will begin and touch EVERY stud along the route to where it will end. Good practice whatever system you are using in fact.


I still do that even though it is now ‘computer controlled’ and I am doing it on a touch screen rather than with my probe - which was always an empty biro case  with a wire stuffed down it.  

 

I’m convinced that, when in fully auto mode, the computer does the same.  As you say, good practice whatever the system.

 

As someone who is now persona non grata used to say, ‘clunk, click, every trip’.

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In our old club (South Shields)  we used a three stud system, on the exit to each point, and used thimbles (metal ones.....) to follow the route you wanted - which worked a bit like lead and stud but the centre stud replaced the lead.  Then simple section switches, with cab control of same with two way switches on the main station panel.  pretty bullet proof.

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Thanks for the very informative reply Graham! It was one of those H@M Clipper controllers that really got me going in the hobby as a kid.

I'd brought a Lima train set with my weekly pocket money through my Grans mail order catalog. The batteries cost a fair bit so Grandad got one of those Clippers for Christmas. Best Christmas present ever! So, thanks for revoking the memory too! 

 

I wasn't very direct with my initial point (no pun intended). When I wired up all the point motors on Queensbury I used single core ISDN internet cable and found that over longer runs things were very weak. Multi stranded wire is better because there's less voltage drop.  Rather than rewire it all I chose to up the voltage to 24V at a couple of amps (which cured the problem) but that might cause damage if a CDU isn't employed!!

The new power is DC which works just as well. Just have to hook it up to the CDU the right way.

 

Regards Shaun.  

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On 31/07/2024 at 05:38, Sasquatch said:

hanks for the very informative reply Graham! It was one of those H@M Clipper controllers that really got me going in the hobby as a kid.


Funnily enough, the other week,  I was talking to a chap whose first job was packing H&M products when he left school at fifteen.  He only got that job because his mother was secretary to Mr Morgan.

 

Nothing to do with HOTN, sorry, but an interesting connection.

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On 04/08/2024 at 21:21, LNER4479 said:

Incidentally, do you like my spotlight for illuminating under the baseboard? A modern LED lamp inside provides the source of light.

Absolutely brilliant! (And I’m not just referring to the output.)

Paul.

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