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Hills of the North - The Last Great Project


LNER4479
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1 hour ago, LNER4479 said:

Like this, you mean?

 

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Might not have been too obvious from earlier photos, but the lower flap has had a batten affixed below the board to stiffen it. The upper flap has a midway support which is thus resting on the now strengthened lower board.

 

Seems to be OK, certainly should take the weight of trains. I'm keen to avoid any intermediate legs for (relative) ease of access when flaps are down - eg to put kettle on(!)

 

I'm no @chris p bacon, but that bottom batten should be an integral part of the board/hinge/flap assembly, not an afterthought IMHO,  as sure as eggs is eggs it will start to head south, de-laminating the bit of un-battened plywood.

 

Mike.

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30 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

that bottom batten should be an integral part of the board/hinge/flap assembly, not an afterthought IMHO,  as sure as eggs is eggs it will start to head south, de-laminating the bit of un-battened plywood.

I agree with Mike, the hinge side needs to be a bit more 'robust' to avoid future problems.

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Hmm. Well, it's your railway and you build more in a few weeks than I have done in the past two years.

 

I probably over-engineer my woodwork solutions anyway, but my 'swinging wedge' still seems to be stable.

 

How will you retain the flaps in the 'up' position?

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2 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Will hopefully be answered by the following ...

 

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Been tackling the joint across the hinged end of the WCML board. Never one for the easy life(!), I'm having some pointwork on the lifting piece! This does serve as Shap summit (at least operationally) so the trailing crossover is partly for sending bankers back once their shoving has been done. But it also provides a run round facility at 'Shaprith', principally for any trains from Carlisle terminating at Penrith.

Meanwhile, the other point is the lead into a small yard at this end. As well as having a purpose for any local goods traffic, any bankers can be held here pending a path back down the bank. I was going to have it just the other side of the gap but putting it this side will enable the roads in the yard to be that much longer - it's going to be quite cramped as it is.

 

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Tracklaying proceeds. The rails immediately either side of the gap have had their sleepers cleared ready for soldering to copper clads.

 

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Like so. Two (gapped!) sleepers per side.

 

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Now then - that hinge. Thought I was doing ever so well ... but can you spot the difference? Having soldered the rails then cut through with the slitting disc, I triumphantly gave it a try ... only to meet with resistance and hear some ominous crunching noises. Oops!

 

The hinge was screwed directly to the baseboard top, meaning that its line of action was BELOW the rails, hence they were getting closer rather than separating when the board hinge was activated - schoolboy error!

 

As can be seen, 9mm packing pieces have been deployed - and now it works as it should. And yes - that is the finished installation, just one sturdy hinge on one side. Might look flimsy but once t'other end is located then it all lines up OK.

 

Certain aspects are likely to be a bit agricultural, especially 'off scene' parts. Just so long as it all works OK. Life's too short.

I had a feeling reading the post that you would be hit with the hinge problem.

 

I find it odd that I never came across this problem as I too screwed my hinges straight onto the baseboard but it lifted well above the track and never crunched. I eventually added a small bit of timber to each end on each hinge eventually just to be safe... 

 

It all look's fantastic RL. 

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I was thinking in terms of a possible need for a true extra leg, mid way along, on the outside edge. If hinged where it attaches to the underside of the board it would fall neatly aside as the flap is raised. It could also be pushed partly aside for emergency duck-under kettle access, for those who haven't super-sized themselves anyway.

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47 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

 

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From that photo it looks like the sharpest part of the curve is at the end of the lifting flap and therefore fully supported without the need for an extra leg as previously suggested.

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1 hour ago, Tortuga said:

From that photo it looks like the sharpest part of the curve is at the end of the lifting flap and therefore fully supported without the need for an extra leg as previously suggested.

More or less. It's actually a fairly constant curve (of approx 33" radius) from about half way over the flap (once the points have been cleared) until it starts to straighten out to line up with the Shap tracks. About 3 coach-lengths, I'd say.

(FWIW, both flaps are about 3 foot long)

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30 minutes ago, BoD said:

I’m sure that if you thought long and hard about it you would somehow be able to fit Grantham in too.

He'd need a bigger mezzanine for that....

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2 hours ago, Black Marlin said:

I have just re-read this entire thread, as I find it so inspirational (I am embarking on a similarly large project myself - a 40' x 20' roundy roundy. Although it will probably be next summer before I start laying track).

All 98 pages? Good grief. We need an 😲 emoji as a reaction for that. Apologies, as most must be missing their photos these days.

 

Anyhow, good luck with your own mega project. Any details posted anywhere yet?

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3 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

And so, now for a serious session of tracklaying - what a chore(!)

 

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Caldew Junc (Carlisle No.3 box), effectively a short stretch of 4-track mainline, with double crossovers both ways. It's not intended to be a scenic bit of the layout - and it's partly hidden under Shap Fell (!) - but it's still an important (crucial even!) operating position so worth taking care over.

 

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Well 'in the zone', with all the paraphernalia of tracklaying spread out.

 

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First double junction installed. This one is underneath Shap Fell, but I laid it with the board in situ (rather than remove it) to keep an eye on overall alignment; the smaller toffee hammer was deployed to get at the track pins.

 

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And repeat two further times! These were somewhat easier, being out in the open. For now, that's all I need to lay as we're heading away on the outer set of lines (where the coaches are). Note that, despite this being 'off scene ', I've maintained 45mm track centres for the pairs of running lines, with 61mm separation in between. I just like the look of it like that!

 

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I've included a single slip in the formation, to give the option of crossing between up and down lines, if required. Also of note is that all these are dead frog points and will be hand operated. I've also recycled some serviceable pointwork from my old 'Gowhole' loft layout (hence mixture of new and faded colours). That one about life being short, again ...

 

The junction looks complex (and therefore amazing!). When you say the points will be hand operated, do you mean via wire in a tube to the edge of the board? Or literally by moving the tie bars themselves? 
 

I really look forward to seeing the updates each day, it’s just superb in concept and execution!

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10 minutes ago, Adrock said:

The junction looks complex (and therefore amazing!). When you say the points will be hand operated, do you mean via wire in a tube to the edge of the board? Or literally by moving the tie bars themselves? 

Certainly for now totally manual (ie moving the tie-bars by hand). Maybe one day in the future when everything else is done (ha!) we could add some degree of finesse ...

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39 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

Anyhow, good luck with your own mega project. Any details posted anywhere yet?


Thank you! Some details and initial thoughts can be found in my layout thread, which is in my signature.

In the meantime, here's a pic from the only section of the layout that exists - a 4' square board that is more proof of concept than anything else...

20210116_132517.jpg

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Indeed. A mug o tea don't taste proper without a good layer on the sides.😋

 

Amusingly, the last one I put in the wishdosher came out looking just the same! I had to resort to hand scouring to restore some order of cleanliness

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25 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

Indeed. A mug o tea don't taste proper without a good layer on the sides.😋

 

Amusingly, the last one I put in the wishdosher came out looking just the same! I had to resort to hand scouring to restore some order of cleanliness

Try a Steradent tablet and boiling water - then leave to stand for half hour. Alternatively, use a teaspoon of Bicarbonate of Soda and fill with boiling water - but beware you dont spill on painted surfaces, it can lift the paint.

 

Regards

Chris H

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