The Bigbee Line Posted February 5, 2020 Author Share Posted February 5, 2020 Here is the brake frame ready for a little tweaking...... 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 (edited) Good morning. I've had two days away looking at big wagons. This picture is looking at the UIC draw hook from underneath the wagon. The square shank is located between two wear liners, these allow the coupling to swing from side to side, it is joined to the 'tailpin' by an articulated joint. From the outside showing the drawhook pushed over to one side. So not just a hole in the headstock... Back to the reality of buffers on models... At the Bristol show I purchased some Carrs Metal Black for steel and was itching to give it a go. So I dipped the head of some buffers in the solution and stood them in a plastic lid to soak. I deliberately only wetted the visible parts of the buffer. They seemed to darken quite quickly, so after a bit were rinsed off. HOWEVER.. when dry the darkened parts had a rusty coating, not sure of the chemistry, but presume it is a form of rust. My concern is that it will keep corroding the buffer shank, possibly spreading to the spring. So I rubbed it off with a brass brush, OK so far. To ensure the spring didn't corrode I added a tiny amount of grease to the spring. Keeping it away from the thread as I would be locking the nut with some paint. The first one was fitted and the nut screwed on... I adjusted the nut and tested the compression. Quite stiff, but a nicer action than an un-greased buffer. Using a cotton bud I wiped any excess grease from the shank, rubbing it over the rest of the buffer face, front and rear. Let's see how they perform... Edited February 9, 2020 by The Bigbee Line 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 In view of the stiffness of the first two buffers fitted, i thought of fitting the spring behind the buffer. So In preparation I thought I'd improve the internal clearance so the buffer could move throughout it's stroke without jamming. Before it would bind at full travel.... So I found a dril that would just go in the front and cleared the hold a bit, then checked the narrower hole at the back. The buffer was then completely free... When tested with the spring inside the buffer it had a really nice action, as Goldilocks would have said, this springing is just right..... So on with a little grease.. Nut onto a bit of sticky label... Screwed on..... Just need to secure the buffer completely, it rotated when I was drilling.... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 11, 2020 Author Share Posted February 11, 2020 I had 2 quite stiff buffers. The solution was to open out the holes. A bit at a time. The deeper the hole, the lighter the action. Re-greased and re-fitted. Drilling out the larger hole.... All four buffers in place... One end... Tomorrow I need to fettle the wheelsets to get the body sitting level. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 (edited) Work and disposal of OO and HO on ebay has taken up a lot of time. A speculative purchase of a damaged Lima body seems to have come up trumps. They did a steel sided open wagon. Almost spot on for the SNCB open... Here is a very grainy shot taken at Dover, probably in the 1980's. I wonder if anyone has the decals.. I roughed some lettering out on paper, not too difficult to spell out with individual letters at a push... The wheelbase needs extending a bit and the towing lugs need to be moved. In reality they travelled to the Bristol Channel if I remember, coming back sheeted up conveying Copper Lead Dross.. Edited February 17, 2020 by The Bigbee Line 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 If you want a non-chemical way of blackening small steel components there is always the old fashioned way of heating the part in a gas flame, the gas cooker was adequate when I did some 4mm buffers. Hold the screw end of the buffer with cheap (pound shop?) pliers until it changes colour (It will go blue then black), then drop it into some engine oil, you won't need much for a few buffers. That should stop the rust problem as well. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 22, 2020 Author Share Posted February 22, 2020 (edited) Some milk tank pictures from Didcot Edited February 22, 2020 by The Bigbee Line 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 On 22/02/2020 at 18:56, The Bigbee Line said: Some milk tank pictures from Didcot That is no. 101. Never a milk tank but built as a water tank, as it remains today. Although given a GWR diag DD6 it was recorded as built in 1948 and therefore BR. https://didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk/article.php/107/no-101-drinking-water-tank-wagon Some others of the same batch https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrtankwagon/e2595cafc https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrtankwagon/e2abe87e2 Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 29, 2020 Author Share Posted February 29, 2020 1 hour ago, hmrspaul said: That is no. 101. Never a milk tank but built as a water tank, as it remains today. Although given a GWR diag DD6 it was recorded as built in 1948 and therefore BR. https://didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk/article.php/107/no-101-drinking-water-tank-wagon Some others of the same batch https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrtankwagon/e2595cafc https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrtankwagon/e2abe87e2 Paul Paul. Thanks for that. Only got home late on Thursday then out on Friday.. So your post has saved my research. There was a SR tank on site. Interestingly this had 2 vacuum brake cylinders. The GW tank just had one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 29, 2020 Author Share Posted February 29, 2020 (edited) I have an underlying theme to keep just the items I need and to get the half finished wagons complete. On the shelf was a 3H 3 plank. It is based on the “one size fits all” underframe. A bit crude, but with a charm of its own. Looking through various books I decided to morph it into an ex-LSWR drop side open. Ending its days with BR in Engineers service. The floor has cut outs for “bits” of the van and mineral to interlock. I filled those with scrap styrene, then carved off the piece of strapping in the middle of the door. Scoring the planking over the scar. Just need to carve some styrene, two pieces each side, to form the door stops. It had been purchased early in my O gauge experience, pre-assembled, in a job lot. I’d fitted white metal buffers to replace the very overscale plastic buffers. The brake work needs a fettle to get the blocks in line with the wheels. I’ve blackened patches for the numbers.... More later. Edited February 29, 2020 by The Bigbee Line 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 29, 2020 Author Share Posted February 29, 2020 (edited) Just found some decals..... I found a picture of S366, after a 1948 repaint at Ashford. The sheet had 364 in a string, so that will do. S366 has the 2 block Morton Brake, so that will be my task for tomorrow. It might get sprung buffers as well. Edited February 29, 2020 by The Bigbee Line 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 MORTON BRAKES As the wagon is intended to be a “one weekend wonder’ I am pressing on with the brakes. The lever was cut off to release the v hanger. The hangers, pushrods and crank were cleaned up. The one lever had a Morton clutch added... Made from scrap... The handle was thinned at the end... That will do for the lever... The hangers and blocks were set to get the height and clearance good. I had to separate one push rod as the block was “flapping in the wind”. I like the Morton 2 block arrangements as it’s economic. The wire is just to locate. I will add something slightly thicker. Here is a view from the side... The LSWR safety loops are actually shaped like a walking stick.. Will find some stiffish wire.... Finally a period shot of progress so far... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 (edited) . Edited March 1, 2020 by The Bigbee Line 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 Brake levers now in position..... Plus a representative “blob” for the outer door hinges... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 (edited) DOOR BANGERS Looking at various pictures there appear to be various configurations.... This Ashford works 1948 shot shows a door banger clearly on a steel underframe version. Where below is a timber framed version iwithout... Was it really not there, or had it been airbrushed out of the works picture? There is one visible in the inner position.... you can also see the “walking stick’ safety loop Edited March 1, 2020 by The Bigbee Line Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 On 16/02/2020 at 21:27, The Bigbee Line said: Work and disposal of OO and HO on ebay has taken up a lot of time. A speculative purchase of a damaged Lima body seems to have come up trumps. They did a steel sided open wagon. Almost spot on for the SNCB open... Here is a very grainy shot taken at Dover, probably in the 1980's. I wonder if anyone has the decals.. I roughed some lettering out on paper, not too difficult to spell out with individual letters at a push... The wheelbase needs extending a bit and the towing lugs need to be moved. In reality they travelled to the Bristol Channel if I remember, coming back sheeted up conveying Copper Lead Dross.. They worked back from the Zinc Smelter at Avonmouth; the load was material they couldn't process there, which went to a sister plant near Antwerp. They were replaced by three Tiphook bogie opens, which had semi-permanent covers fitted. I notice the wagon to the left seems to have spoked wheels; a late survivor. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 31 minutes ago, Fat Controller said: They worked back from the Zinc Smelter at Avonmouth; the load was material they couldn't process there, which went to a sister plant near Antwerp. They were replaced by three Tiphook bogie opens, which had semi-permanent covers fitted. I notice the wagon to the left seems to have spoked wheels; a late survivor. Brian Copper Lead Dross I remember it well. Not sure long how the traffic lasted in the tiphook boxes. Interestingly they still have the beefed up top raves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 The traffic survived until the demise of wagon-load traffic through the tunnel, so about 2002. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 (edited) Pleased with today’s efforts. Sprung buffers next. Edited March 1, 2020 by The Bigbee Line 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 3, 2020 Author Share Posted March 3, 2020 The buffers were replaced. Blackened heads then greased before fitting. Nice slick action. A Peco hook was fitted next Then the outer link magnetic and the other two made from copper. Finally the interior showing some scrubbing with a piece of 80 grit. Nice. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 4, 2020 Author Share Posted March 4, 2020 Just put the first paint on the coupling. Needs some weathering now.... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 4, 2020 Author Share Posted March 4, 2020 Virtually completed now. Buffers and couplings done. Numbers to add to one side, then door springs all round. Then that’s it. I’m pleased with the progress as I normally get distracted. Tonight I made some test door springs. They are slotted into the chassis, so should be robust. Here is the chosen length.... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 (edited) The final coupling is in place. Ready to paint. The end link in this one is made from Tesco paper clip. Thanks to Sir Douglas for that tip. All links soldered. Edited March 5, 2020 by The Bigbee Line 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted March 5, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 5, 2020 On 01/03/2020 at 14:24, The Bigbee Line said: DOOR BANGERS Looking at various pictures there appear to be various configurations.... This Ashford works 1948 shot shows a door banger clearly on a steel underframe version. Where below is a timber framed version iwithout... Was it really not there, or had it been airbrushed out of the works picture? There is one visible in the inner position.... you can also see the “walking stick’ safety loop A bit late to reply but the wooden one appears to use those prominent angled headstocks as the banger? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 3 hours ago, Hal Nail said: A bit late to reply but the wooden one appears to use those prominent angled headstocks as the banger? I had noticed that, but wondered what the piece was, riveted nearby to the sole bar. I might try adding the extra bits to the sole bar with a single door spring in the middle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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