The Bigbee Line Posted August 17, 2019 Author Share Posted August 17, 2019 (edited) Here is a table of AWG showing wire diameters. The Bootlace ferrules are available in 'even' AWG sizes.... They are plated copper, so we will see how they wear. I've no mileage turns, so should be OK as a stop gap, plus they will be greased before operation (To lubricate and prevent any tendency for the bearing journal to rust). Edited August 17, 2019 by The Bigbee Line 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted August 17, 2019 Author Share Posted August 17, 2019 I’ve created a ledge for the solebar support to slide under. With other parts of interlocking styrene, the solebar will slide in from the outside. Hopefully just requiring a single discrete pin to keep it in position. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 Don't use grease or oil it will attract dirt and make things worse. Use powdered graphite. Much better for wagons coaches. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted August 17, 2019 Author Share Posted August 17, 2019 51 minutes ago, N15class said: Don't use grease or oil it will attract dirt and make things worse. Use powdered graphite. Much better for wagons coaches. Thanks, i have a puffer pack purchased years years ago for Yale locks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted August 17, 2019 Author Share Posted August 17, 2019 (edited) I put my chosen wheelsets (with thinner than usual journals) into a battery drill and gave them a Polish. Also de-rusting the rims and axle. Having a brainwave I took some of the kit-kat foil and placed two small circles on a cut section of tube and smoothed the outside around the tube. That thickness when pushed into the axleguards was “just right”. The wheels turn but have the right amount of resistance. Starting to look the part now. Edited August 17, 2019 by The Bigbee Line 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 Interlude. I have wagons that that just require minor tweaks. One of which is an LMS van that looks like a D1664. I have added rain strips. Then noticed that the uprights of the metal framing bent under the sides, but the model continued straight down. So they were cut off and the scrap trimmed to form the portion under the sides. They need some filling and filing.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 Tonight’s work bench, tools and material. Various bits of plastic lid..... Maybe a lot of effort for a little plastic. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 I removed the metal parts of the buffers to fix the ‘rings’ on the front. Promptly decanted the tray of bits in the floor..... So it will be Man V Carpet Monster later.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted August 29, 2019 Author Share Posted August 29, 2019 (edited) 50 shades of grey. I had had picked up a couple of Games Workshops shades of Grey. I had given each a stir with a wooden coffee stirrer. When they had dried out, the shade reference was written in each stick. I’ve had a test run with Ulthuan Grey. It was applied as a thinned coat over some Tamiya, slightly darker grey. I applied some black Micro-Scale decal sheet. Then found the nearest number decals from the same manufacturer. Edited August 29, 2019 by The Bigbee Line 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 citadel have a good range of quality paints but theyre also a more expensive 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 Staying near Telford ready for Guildex. Need to have great will power. My list for wagons is only buffers and etched brakework. Maybe grey paint and decals. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 The cold weather is here... I always seem to be sorting out stuff. There’s so much of it... Work has been quite intense, but interesting. I’ve had a couple of trips to the Mendips so cannot complain. On the modelling front l have re-activated my LSWR van in card. The intention was to use a wooden core, for stability and weight. As my woodworking skills are poor, I improvised. These 3 parts will form the core. Craftily joined with card to create a solid with square corners. It’s amazing what you can do with PVA and a load of clamps. Tomorrow the sides and ends go on. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 While the body is assembled I was thinking of the underframe. I had a Slaters Midland Railway Van, a bit short and maybe a touch too early for me. It was an ebay purchase with defective buffers. The underframe timbers were quite deep, but it would be my donor. I stripped off the underframe and reviewed the parts. The wheels stood quite a way off the axle boxes, so snipped a bit off each axle stub and cleaned the ends with a file. The sole bars are moulded as a channel, so the lower web would form a good location for a new part to join the solebar sections. I had a measure and drew up a plate that would give a nice set the underframe timbers at the correct width and allow the increase in wheelbase from 9' to 10'6". The first axleguard has been cemented onto the base and the parts rest on a square to harden. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 First 2 axleguards in place. They need to dry overnight before adding the others. Showing the WB increased to 10’6” This is the body waiting for its final end to be fitted. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 The Underframe had some fettling to allow it to be fitted to the body. Although the Slaters underframe had wooden solebars, I have decided to recreate a diagram 1408 steel underframed version. The front of the solebar will be smoothed off and a cosmetic steel solebar added... The underframe assembly will be split down the middle and each section screwed in place to the body. First dry run against the part built body.. I need to check the ride height as the buffer height is very important. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 16, 2019 Author Share Posted November 16, 2019 I am determined to get the LSWR van finished.. The second end was added and some wood strip sanded down to create the timbers on the end, here having a test 'sit' on the underframe.. Here is a side view.. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 16, 2019 Author Share Posted November 16, 2019 Also on the workbench this evening was the trial fitting of some brass sprung UIC buffers to a Lima Ferry wagon. I need to add some correct sized wheels, then re-set the buffer heights and widths. Here is the before picture.. Now the 'first draft' with the replacement buffers... Some additional fettling is required.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 18, 2019 Author Share Posted November 18, 2019 Tonight it was buffers. I think these are North British. But they will do. Just taken the out and larruped shellac into the holes. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sf315 Posted November 19, 2019 Share Posted November 19, 2019 (edited) On 16/11/2019 at 22:25, The Bigbee Line said: Also on the workbench this evening was the trial fitting of some brass sprung UIC buffers to a Lima Ferry wagon. I need to add some correct sized wheels, then re-set the buffer heights and widths. Here is the before picture.. Now the 'first draft' with the replacement buffers... Some additional fettling is required.. Firstly Ernie where did you get the buffers from and secondly we spoke about wheels I might leave my wheels as they are as I’ve been running up and down with mine and it been fine. Ive completed the body and can now concentrate on the chassis see pic below. Steve. Edited November 19, 2019 by sf315 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 On 19/11/2019 at 15:57, sf315 said: Firstly Ernie where did you get the buffers from and secondly we spoke about wheels I might leave my wheels as they are as I’ve been running up and down with mine and it been fine. Ive completed the body and can now concentrate on the chassis see pic below. Steve. Steve I will message you about the buffers. My next thing with the Lima van is a new roof. I have another project for the Lima one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 I’m adding a few roof supports. just odd bits of card. With a few supports. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 22, 2019 Author Share Posted November 22, 2019 I discovered I'd made a slight faux pas.. The under frame was a little too deep to sit at the correct level. Rather than hack it about I started to make a new one with timber sole bars of the correct depth.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 The wooden solebar is a lamination of 3 pieces of sheet (I've used up all my chunky evergreen). Here is a plastic axle guard in position. That is now set up, so the second side is now being added. The assembly sits of the greaseproof type paper that is the backing on sticky labels. The support is a plated brass 'earthing' block. Very handy as the are heavy and square... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 The second axle guard is now cemented in place, set up at the correct 10'6" wheelbase. I seem to have slipped up a bit as the are not symmetrical on the solebars.. That will easily be corrected when fitting. You can see that I have used odd pieces to laminate the solebar. Tonight I can fix the other 2 axle guards, the tomorrow have a test run, I'd better have got the ride height correct.. The underframe with the 'too deep' solebars is destined for an LBSC twin bolster. These made it just into BR days on the mainland, but into the 60's on 'The Island' (The Isle of Wight) a couple were converted to crane runners, so not a problem for me... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 Been out this afternoon to Lynn (Kings) with Linda, discovered a not bad model shop and a Caribbean Restaurant, double bonus. Couldn't wait to try the under frame. I had to pull out some of the bits of card I'd stuck inside the body. Near enough for a test run. Posed it on the Brighton Works headshunt, showing off the LED lighting... In handling I've slightly bowed the tops of the sides, but that will soon straighten out. Here is a side on view... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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