RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted February 2, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2020 What is probably the definitive article on AA16 and similar vans was published in British Railway Journal, issue 17, by John Lewis. That was back in 1987. Jonathan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Thankyou Corneliuslundie, I found a copy via the dreaded ebay after going down lots of dead ends with booksellers websites. Usual thing, advertise stuff you sold ages ago, but anyone browsing will probably buy something else instead. I might just be awkward, but that sort of thing usually has the opposite effect on me. It only works when I can ask a seller to keep an eye out for something for me. I believe that has been rebranded as "networking" If I can create a passable AA16, I will share the process with you all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 On 12/01/2020 at 09:41, gwrrob said: Can I double check here that Hornby have the GW and number placement correct on the R6921 release. I believe some toads had no branding as a wartime precaution but I'm not sure of the number position. A bit like buses. You wait for one and another one turns up.... https://railsofsheffield.com/products/39955/Bachmann-33-300h-oo-gauge-gwr-20t-toad-brake-van-gwr-grey Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Outer thirds standard ABS. Middle third scratchbuilt. (Scribed plasticard planking with Evergreen strip framing) The kit might have been designed with the specific intention of making the conversion easy. 5 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) Another picture of it under construction Eek! Dates from 2011! Edited February 4, 2020 by mike morley 3 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted February 4, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, mike morley said: Outer thirds standard ABS. Middle third scratchbuilt. (Scribed plasticard planking with Evergreen strip framing) The kit might have been designed with the specific intention of making the conversion easy. Mike, Knowing how Adrian Swain (ABS) liked his variant kits, I'd guess that the kit was designed to allow him to produce a road van variant kit - perhaps he did? Regards, John Isherwood. Edited February 4, 2020 by cctransuk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Not long before Adrian's health forced him to stop trading we went through his range of doors but they appeared to all be intended to convert Minks and none were quite the right size and/or shape. Most were a bit too tall and narrow, IIRC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 36 minutes ago, cctransuk said: Knowing how Adrian Swain (ABS) liked his variant kits, I'd guess that the kit was designed to allow him to produce a road van variant kit - perhaps he did? The AA16 masters are D&S. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 The conversation I had with Adrian during the door hunt lead me to believe they began with him, went to D&S then came back to him (not that it really matters) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 7 hours ago, mike morley said: Another picture of it under construction Eek! Dates from 2011! Nice work and an interesting conversion. Last time I built one was ten years before that! Judging by what the AA16 kit is fetching now, nobody is producing one anymore. That said you photographs are much clearer than 90 year old originals so give me more motivation to scratch build one. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted February 5, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2020 And I thought I would be the first to build one! Really useful, thanks. I have an ABS kit but already made up and painted/lettered as designed. I think hacking it about would probably be worse than starting from scratch. So when the current batch of 7 mm wagons for the club layout is off the workbench (kit built AA16 van already done), this will be the next project. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 I wasn't aware that the K&ESR had an AA16. Does anyone know any details of the AA16 that ran as brake van No1 on the Bishops Castle Railway? I have seen photographs of it in service dated 1928 and it worked on the demolition trains in September 1936. I don't know what happened to it after that. Presumably it was cut up in the yard at Craven Arms as was Kitson 0-6-0 "Carlisle" ? It's difficult to tell from the photographs if it's a timber framed example. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 5, 2020 Author Share Posted February 5, 2020 https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110832-mercian-bishops-castle-carlisle-kitson-0-6-0/&do=findComment&comment=2485820 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted February 5, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2020 There is a photo of brake van no. 1 on page 50 of Lucas. It looks to me like an iron underframe. So like no. 2. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 11 hours ago, corneliuslundie said: There is a photo of brake van no. 1 on page 50 of Lucas. It looks to me like an iron underframe. So like no. 2. Jonathan I think you're right, there are several photos of it in the E. C. Griffith book of 1948, which appear to show an iron underframe, the natural light highlighting the lower flange of the channel section. No mention of the number it carried on the GWR or when the BCR acquired it unfortunately. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted April 13, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 13, 2020 As threatened I have built a model of no 12022 as seen at Abermule. It is difficult to see the extra doors but I decided against planking, making them more like Iron Mink doors. I may be wrong, but it's done now. Unfortunately the varnish has let me down, and I shall have to try again, either a different varnish or a repaint. And i need to sort of the Dean Goods to haul the train, in the absence of a 2021 class saddle tank. I am also not sure about the colour of the footboards. Jonathan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted April 13, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 13, 2020 2021 saddle and pannier tanks are available from Southeastern Finecast, I don't think they're listed, but if you give Dave a ring he will be able to sort you out. I have one of each in the to do stash. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted April 17, 2020 Share Posted April 17, 2020 (edited) Jonathan, please tell us more about the varnish. About a year ago I was doing a PO wagon for a friend (Powsides on Slaters) that the waft of Humbrol varnish I used to fix the transfers made them crinkle badly. Not nice when its your own wagon, but far more embarrassing when it's someone else's! I only got away with it because the friend had exactly the same thing happen with the last wagon he'd built using Humbrol varnish, so he was prepared to forgive me. I'd already agreed to do an identical wagon for another friend and a bit of investigation on here revealed that no one had a good word to say about modern-day Humbrol but that no one could speak highly enough of Testors Dullcoat. I soon discovered that its not the easiest stuff to get hold of but I eventually obtained a tin, only to then discover that when it was first used it had exactly the same crinkling effect as the Humbrol varnish! Even worse, within a couple of days the transfers began to yellow badly- which the Humbrol wagon, despite more than a months head start, has still not done. So, what varnish did you use? Edited April 17, 2020 by mike morley Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted April 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 17, 2020 5 hours ago, mike morley said: Jonathan, please tell us more about the varnish. About a year ago I was doing a PO wagon for a friend (Powsides on Slaters) that the waft of Humbrol varnish I used to fix the transfers made them crinkle badly. Not nice when its your own wagon, but far more embarrassing when it's someone else's! I only got away with it because the friend had exactly the same thing happen with the last wagon he'd built using Humbrol varnish, so he was prepared to forgive me. I'd already agreed to do an identical wagon for another friend and a bit of investigation on here revealed that no one had a good word to say about modern-day Humbrol but that no one could speak highly enough of Testors Dullcoat. I soon discovered that its not the easiest stuff to get hold of but I eventually obtained a tin, only to then discover that when it was first used it had exactly the same crinkling effect as the Humbrol varnish! Even worse, within a couple of days the transfers began to yellow badly- which the Humbrol wagon, despite more than a months head start, has still not done. So, what varnish did you use? Mike, Two varnishes of widely different origins; same effect - this suggests that it is a function of the transfer material rather than anything else. I would enquire of Powsides as to what varnish(es) are safe to use over their transfers. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted April 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 18, 2020 On this occasion I used Docrafts "Artiste" acrylic matt varnish. It has been OK a couple of times in the past. It i made for a company called Design Objectives Ltd of Wimborne (made in China of course). Jonathan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 I've used Railmatch varnish over POWsides transfers and it neither yellowed nor ate the transfers. When I airbrush this, I thin it with Tamiya acrylic thinner which is propanol and butanol and has no aromatic component (c.f. enamel thinners). By extension, I expect Tamiya's own vanishes with their thinner would be OK. I know that they are OK with Fox transfers, which mix badly with Humbrol vanish. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 I usually seal transfers that I think may be vulnerable (eg POWsides) with Klear before spraying with Testors. It provides an acrylic barrier which is quite effective. Any unwanted glossing disappears under the Testors. Tony 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted April 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 18, 2020 2 minutes ago, Prometheus said: I usually seal transfers that I think may be vulnerable (eg POWsides) with Klear before spraying with Testors. It provides an acrylic barrier which is quite effective. Any unwanted glossing disappears under the Testors. Tony Exactly my own method - and as recommended in the instructions that accompany my transfers. John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers. https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 Great minds John, great minds....! Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 At about the same time as I was using Klear to stick down the ballast on the layout I was building a few years ago, someone on an earlier incarnation of RMweb was revealing that Klear could also be used to glaze cab windows. As a friend of mine remarked incredulously, "Is there anything that stuff can't do?" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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