Hymek detaiing new member help needed

[Is Line Clear]

Hello all,

Just joined RMweb and I'm still finding my feet around the topics so apologies if this post has been asked a hundred times before. Basically having just got back into the hobby after a 25 year lapse my first detailing project is the Triang Big Big Hymek and I have some questions if anyone can help answer them, firstly am I correct in assuming the cab windows on the model need modifying as the shape seems totally wrong from photos of the real thing I've studied and secondly which type of primer is best suited for the plastic ? I have got the PRMRP kit as the start point for conversion but would appreciate if anyone knows where I might get etched bogie cab steps from as the white metal ones provided are a little offputing ? Also what is best recommended glue that will adhere the white metal casting (buffer beam) to the Triang plastic ? I have the earlier Triang model and not the later Novo version that had the brittle plastic. I have soured the raised number and build plate etchings along with shed plates but is there a roof fan grill available in 7mm ? The model is to be based on D7044 in Rail Blue WFYE. Sorry for all the questions but these are real dilemmas for me and any advice will be most welcome.

King regards

Paul

[d600]

Hi Paul welcome to rmweb there has been lots of topics about this conversion use the search box on home page will bring most of the topics up and pictures,I always use super glue gel for whitemetal to plastic bonding Asda's own brand is good for diesel roof grill mesh I buy frying pan splatter guards from Poundland cut the mesh out its spot on for 7mm.

[Is Line Clear]

Hi Paul welcome to rmweb there has been lots of topics about this conversion use the search box on home page will bring most of the topics up and pictures,I always use super glue gel for whitemetal to plastic bonding Asda's own brand is good for diesel roof grill mesh I buy frying pan splatter guards from Poundland cut the mesh out its spot on for 7mm.

Ah thank you d600... muchly appreciated.

Paul

[auld_boot]

For etched steps I doubt you will get better than these, but they come at a price.  

http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_35_67&product_id=179

 

Other than that I would suggest getting in touch with Just Like the Real Thing (via email) as they are happy to sell parts from their kits. 

http://justliketherealthing.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=89

 

It might even be worth phoning Howes of Oxford to see if they have any remaining Heljan spare sprues, there are none listed on their site currently but I have had luck in the past by talking to them.

https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/subCat/Heljan%20UK

 

David Parkins does a handy loco fittings set but I have no idea if any of the fan grills in it are suitable for a Hymek.

https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18234&cat=307&page=1

[Is Line Clear]

For etched steps I doubt you will get better than these, but they come at a price.  

http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_35_67&product_id=179

 

Other than that I would suggest getting in touch with Just Like the Real Thing (via email) as they are happy to sell parts from their kits. 

http://justliketherealthing.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=89

 

It might even be worth phoning Howes of Oxford to see if they have any remaining Heljan spare sprues, there are none listed on their site currently but I have had luck in the past by talking to them.

https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/subCat/Heljan%20UK

 

David Parkins does a handy loco fittings set but I have no idea if any of the fan grills in it are suitable for a Hymek.

https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18234&cat=307&page=1

Thank you for the links Auld_boot, I think the David Parkin's diesel fittings set will be very useful and last night I found the Peter Harvey Design etchings for cab steps with Timken bearing covers and have ordered a set already. I also found what looks like great quality shed code etchings from Fox so have ordered two 82A plates to go on my proposed D7044. The PRMRP data states the fan cover diameter is 38mm so I'll ring DP to check if their kit contains a mesh that size, anyway you've pointed me in the right direction so thanks for that, tis much appreciated.

Paul

[steve fay]

Just like the real thing usually supply additional castings, I detailed a Heljan Hymek using their parts along with the Pete Harvey parts.

The Timken axle box covers are very nice! I commissioned him to do them.I used JLTRT, pipes, life guards, front steps, sand box fillers and sand pipes, buffers, bogie side air cylinders, air horns, bogieleaf spring suspension, fuel filler, wheel counter.

Pete Harvey steps, Couplings Timken covers. Plus wife for the bogie side pipe runs.

Edited July 30, 2017 by steve fay

[Phill Dyson (onslaught832)]

Follow the link to my Triang conversions

 

https://flic.kr/s/aHskwoM1Yv

 

I have done three Big Big Hymeks in the past, but I now use Heljan body shells as a basis for my Hymek builds.

 

BTW no parts are available from Howes any longer for the Heljan Hymek, but you will find most of the bits you need in the PRMRP conversion kit

[Is Line Clear]

Just like the real thing usually supply additional castings, I detailed a Heljan Hymek using their parts along with the Pete Harvey parts.

The Timken axle box covers are very nice! I commissioned him to do them.IMG_1015.JPGIMG_1290.JPGIMG_1148.JPGIMG_1309.JPGI used JLTRT, pipes, life guards, front steps, sand box fillers and sand pipes, buffers, bogie side air cylinders, air horns, bogieleaf spring suspension, fuel filler, wheel counter.

Pete Harvey steps, Couplings Timken covers. Plus wife for the bogie side pipe runs.

Hi Steve, Thanks for the useful info, I have a set of your Timken axle box covers coming from Peter Harvey... I was impressed discovering they came as part of the cab step kit. BTW which glue do you recommend for fixing the white metal buffer beam to the Triang plastic ? Thanks for your help.

 

Paul

[Is Line Clear]

Follow the link to my Triang conversions

 

https://flic.kr/s/aHskwoM1Yv

 

I have done three Big Big Hymeks in the past, but I now use Heljan body shells as a basis for my Hymek builds.

 

BTW no parts are available from Howes any longer for the Heljan Hymek, but you will find most of the bits you need in the PRMRP conversion kit

Hi Phil, thanks for that, your build link is great and I faved some Hymek pics to my Flickr account.

Thanks Paul

[steve fay]

For fixing to Heljan plastic I usually use super glue. I rough up both the new part and the plastic for a better bond. Heljans choice

Of plastic is well known for glue not sticking very well !!

Looking forward to seeing your progress

[Is Line Clear]

Thank you for that tip Steve, at the moment all I have done beyond dismantling the old body and cutting out the engine room windows is to filler and fettle the front cab windows into proper shape, from studying close up photos it looks as if the leading face of the cab roof overhang at rain strip level is also suspect. I have removed the original rain strip molding and am going to replace using .7mm wire which will be filed flat after bending and fixing to profie, the correct profile of cab roof peak will made up with filler and sanded to shape. Also today a pair of nice etched shed plates 82A arrived from Fox, Cab steps from Peter Harvey will no doubt follow soon, when conversion work starts in earnest after my hols I'll post up a few progress pics if you like.

 

regards,

 

Paul

Edited August 2, 2017 by Is Line Clear

[Is Line Clear]

Just like the real thing usually supply additional castings, I detailed a Heljan Hymek using their parts along with the Pete Harvey parts.

The Timken axle box covers are very nice! I commissioned him to do them.IMG_1015.JPGIMG_1290.JPGIMG_1148.JPGIMG_1309.JPGI used JLTRT, pipes, life guards, front steps, sand box fillers and sand pipes, buffers, bogie side air cylinders, air horns, bogieleaf spring suspension, fuel filler, wheel counter.

Pete Harvey steps, Couplings Timken covers. Plus wife for the bogie side pipe runs.

The Hymek detailing steps arrived this morning from Peter Harvey and look great, Steve I really am impressed with those Timken axle covers you had commissioned, pretty much got all I need now except the raised numbers and some extra detailing bits from JLTRT which I'll order when I get back off my hols. So far I have reprofilled the cab windscreens and leading edge cab roof slop, the gutter strip has been replaced with .7mm fine wire formed and filed to shape and this has enhanced the front end look enormously, the Big Train front end cab roof shape was just not correct, anyway I have plenty of good colour Hymek photos to work from as references. I fixed the wire gutter channel by tack taping into position and running superglue into the top edge of the gutter profile, a final fix was made when the glue had dried and the tack tape removed by building up the cab roof edge profile with Squadron Products green Putty. I have also discovered that Cuprinol Natural colour two pack Plastic Woodfill works equally well but must be left to harded over night before shaping with fine files and wet and drying. Pictures will follow when I get back off holiday.

Kind regards,

Paul

Edited August 8, 2017 by Is Line Clear

[Fastdax]

The Hymek detailing steps arrived this morning from Peter Harvey and look great, Steve I really am impressed with those Timken axle covers you had commissioned, pretty much got all I need now except the raised numbers and some extra detailing bits from JLTRT which I'll order when I get back off my hols. So far I have reprofilled the cab windscreens and leading edge cab roof slop, the gutter strip has been replaced with .7mm fine wire formed and filed to shape and this has enhanced the front end look enormously, the Big Train front end cab roof shape was just not correct, anyway I have plenty of good colour Hymek photos to work from as references. I fixed the wire gutter channel by tack taping into position and running superglue into the top edge of the gutter profile, a final fix was made when the glue had dried and the tack tape removed by building up the cab roof edge profile with Squadron Products green Putty. I have also discovered that Cuprinol Natural colour two pack Plastic Woodfill works equally well but must be left to harded over night before shaping with fine files and wet and drying. Pictures will follow when I get back off holiday.

 

 

Hi Paul,

 

Have you had a chance to take any pictures?

 

I have a Triang Big Big Hymek and PRMRP kit on the workbench and I agree that the front window and cab roof shape is a bit wrong. The top of the windows doesn't seem level enough to me ...

 

 

Can you show us what you did to improve yours?

 

I also got a set of Peter Harvey steps. They look great, don't they?

 

Thanks

[Phill Dyson (onslaught832)]

Hi Paul,

 

Have you had a chance to take any pictures?

 

I have a Triang Big Big Hymek and PRMRP kit on the workbench and I agree that the front window and cab roof shape is a bit wrong. The top of the windows doesn't seem level enough to me ...

 

2017-10-20 002.JPG

 

Can you show us what you did to improve yours?

 

I also got a set of Peter Harvey steps. They look great, don't they?

 

Thanks

Cab windows are nothing like, but if you look at my link it's not too difficult to correct them

[Is Line Clear]

Hi Paul,

 

Have you had a chance to take any pictures?

 

I have a Triang Big Big Hymek and PRMRP kit on the workbench and I agree that the front window and cab roof shape is a bit wrong. The top of the windows doesn't seem level enough to me ...

 

2017-10-20 002.JPG

 

Can you show us what you did to improve yours?

 

I also got a set of Peter Harvey steps. They look great, don't they?

 

Thanks

Oops Fastdax I'm sorry I've completely missed your post, here is a picture of the cab alteration so far. I started by removing the plastic gutter and then filed the corner cabroof and front edge contouring to a more realistic profile, attention was then turned to the windows which are too tall in the centre but need "opening out" a bit in each upper and lower outer corner. So the main fault on the original plastic is the oncorrect front cab roof shape above the windows and the windows themselves. Next I made a new gutter from 40thou wire profiled to the proper cab shape, I superglued the midpoint between the windows then when set I superglued the corners , at this point if doing this there will be a slight gap between the wire and the original plastic form (which was moulded flat) above each window centre... at this point this is fine because the wire wants to make a slight curvature between the glued points... this will make the correct cab roof front profile. Next the sides are pulled in flat and glued in position above the side windows and cab doors, the end of the wire can be sliced off at the correct point using a minidrill disc cutting wheel. Now I used believe it or not, Cuprinol Two Pack Plastic Woodfill Natura White as a filler to hold the wire and complete forming the cab roof edges, this produce is more friendly to work with then car body fillerand sets better too, sanding it is also better as unlike P38 it does not "flake" off at its fine edge with wet and dry flatting. The windows are basically gently filed in the areas I described earlier and the central ends of each window were built up with Cuprinol Woodfill which can be flatted back when hardened. I left the Woodfill 24 hours to cure and harded before attempting to start the flatting. Another thing I experimented with Green Clay as a fine fillerbut wonder if it is not as good as the Cuprinol produce. Cuprinol Plastic Woodfill is a two pack product that can be purchased from builder merchants, I buy mine from Travis Perkins.

[Fastdax]

Oops Fastdax I'm sorry I've completely missed your post, here is a picture of the cab alteration so far. I started by removing the plastic gutter and then filed the corner cabroof and front edge contouring to a more realistic profile, attention was then turned to the windows which are too tall in the centre but need "opening out" a bit in each upper and lower outer corner. So the main fault on the original plastic is the oncorrect front cab roof shape above the windows and the windows themselves. Next I made a new gutter from 40thou wire profiled to the proper cab shape, I superglued the midpoint between the windows then when set I superglued the corners , at this point if doing this there will be a slight gap between the wire and the original plastic form (which was moulded flat) above each window centre... at this point this is fine because the wire wants to make a slight curvature between the glued points... this will make the correct cab roof front profile. Next the sides are pulled in flat and glued in position above the side windows and cab doors, the end of the wire can be sliced off at the correct point using a minidrill disc cutting wheel. Now I used believe it or not, Cuprinol Two Pack Plastic Woodfill Natura White as a filler to hold the wire and complete forming the cab roof edges, this produce is more friendly to work with then car body fillerand sets better too, sanding it is also better as unlike P38 it does not "flake" off at its fine edge with wet and dry flatting. The windows are basically gently filed in the areas I described earlier and the central ends of each window were built up with Cuprinol Woodfill which can be flatted back when hardened. I left the Woodfill 24 hours to cure and harded before attempting to start the flatting. Another thing I experimented with Green Clay as a fine fillerbut wonder if it is not as good as the Cuprinol produce. Cuprinol Plastic Woodfill is a two pack product that can be purchased from builder merchants, I buy mine from Travis Perkins.

 

Thanks for this, Paul. Very useful!

 

I found I had some 4mm scale point rodding, which is square nickel-silver wire 0.4mm thick and also the 7mm scale equivalent at 0.7mm thick. I'm intending to try one of these to portray the guttering above the windows.

 

By "opening out a bit in each upper and lower outer corner" do you mean that you made the windows wider by removing material from (what in a car would be called) the "A" pillar?

Edited November 9, 2017 by Fastdax

[Is Line Clear]

Thanks for this, Paul. Very useful!

 

I found I had some 4mm scale point rodding, which is square nickel-silver wire 0.4mm thick and also the 7mm scale equivalent at 0.7mm thick. I'm intending to try one of these to portray the guttering above the windows.

 

By "opening out a bit in each upper and lower outer corner" do you mean that you made the widows wider by removing material from (what in a car would be called) the "A" pillar?

No probs Fastdax, just bare with me if I get a little slow in replying, I'm not ignoring anyone as is the usual case with me I just seem to spread myself to thinly. Now to the windows... the widths seem correct to me as the "A" pillars and the central pillar between the front windows are good, it is the top and bottom edge profile that is not, these two edges (as far as I can make out from studies) need to be parrallel and follow the line of the remade cab front gutter strip, the lower edge of the front windows need to follow the lower edges of the cab side windows. I think I may have got my cab gutter strip slightly wrong in the centre as there seems to be a slight rise in the middle that makes the whole thing look odd... this will have to come off to be re-done properly. There is a great colour picture of what I mean on the front cover of John Scott-Morgan's book The Heyday of the Hymeks.Ian Allen Publishing 2011 : ISBN 978-0-7110-3503-4.The front cover shows D7092 in green with white cab suround and just at the right angle to see how the window profiles are, I do hope this helps. Yes the wire I used to form rainstrips was filed flat on the leading faces, the two pictures I took show the work at quite a rough stage... (I will give a pictorial update soon) and 4mm scale square point rodding would work better ... gosh if only I'd thought of that one. never mind I do have a second Hymek to do. To be honest Fastdax I haven't done much to progress my Hymek recently as the layout build has had my attention instead.

cheers for now Paul

Edited November 9, 2017 by Is Line Clear

[Is Line Clear]

Cab windows are nothing like, but if you look at my link it's not too difficult to correct them

Thanks Phil, your link was my first port of call in research as I knew you'd want to see the job right and your project work is inspirational... sorry about a late reply to you.

cheers for now Paul

[Fastdax]

There is a great colour picture of what I mean on the front cover of John Scott-Morgan's book The Heyday of the Hymeks

 

Thanks Paul, I do have that book as a reference. I wish it had more detail shots instead of the solid line-up of front three-quarter pictures, but it's nice to have such a wide range of photos to hand.

 

I haven't done much to progress my Hymek recently as the layout build has had my attention instead.

 

I know how it is!

 

BTW, are you intending to put a slope on the "shelf" under the front windows? The Tri-ang has an almost horizontal shelf here, but the real thing looks to have about a 30 degree downwards slope.

 

Duncan

Edited November 9, 2017 by Fastdax

[Fastdax]

By the way, there's some really good cab end detail shown in this YouTube video:

 

 

Duncan

[Is Line Clear]

 

BTW, are you intending to put a slope on the "shelf" under the front windows? The Tri-ang has an almost horizontal shelf here, but the real thing looks to have about a 30 degree downwards slope.

 

Duncan

Hi Duncan, now thanks for drawing this to attention, I'd noticed the cab shelf slope on the real thing but have now realised why the model's shelf is flat... its those flippin' windows again or rather the whole window roof insert piece... the shelf is flat but the body shell does have a slight slope. So yes I'll improve this to suit but having just studied the model I'm thinking there must be an easy way forward without making problems for later on in the build. If the window insert was built up on the shelf to meet the bodyshell this would make the distance between the lower window edge and the shelf too narrow so the lower front window line must stay equal the the cabside window lower edge. I think it is possible to glue the window roof unit into the bodtshell just marginally higher and then file away the flat shelf face to meet with the bodyshell and thus create a smooth seamless union. I am also wondering if the bodyshell cab bulkhead should be cut away as well... this will make access to glazing easier. A proper replacement bulkhead plus cab desk can be ordered from Laurie at JLTRT... maybe also order the fan grill etches as that bit of gauze PRMRP sent with their kit conversion looks like it makes for very hard work in order to get the top of the model to right.  Another thing also that I noticed (and have corrected) is that on the BBT bodyshell the smaller side window next to the double access doors should be a wider one like the middle windows, the other narrow window next the the side vent grills and single access door is the only smal bodyside window... this will need one of the PRMPR side window frame etches cutting down to suit. Oh for the challenges of scratch building. One final thing I have noticed is that there is a subtle difference on the second batch of Hymeks (D7045 - 7100), on these the cabs are fitted with a pair of brackets just above the train describer box, presumable the Western Region specified this as an additional item to fix nameboards.

 

Just as a matter of interest Duncan what are your thoughts on making a sub frame? I'd wondered about something from brass sheet with bogie cut outs that could screw/bolt onto side strengthening bars on the bodyshell, the bogie brackets could solder to this and the sub frame could carry the cab detail... desk seats back bulkhead... maybe four bolts/screws that undid to release the bodyshell when the cab window units and roof are permenantly glued fast. I like the video BTW thanks for posting it.

 

cheers Paul

 

Paul

[Fastdax]

Hi Duncan, now thanks for drawing this to attention, I'd noticed the cab shelf slope on the real thing but have now realised why the model's shelf is flat... its those flippin' windows again or rather the whole window roof insert piece... the shelf is flat but the body shell does have a slight slope. So yes I'll improve this to suit but having just studied the model I'm thinking there must be an easy way forward without making problems for later on in the build. If the window insert was built up on the shelf to meet the bodyshell this would make the distance between the lower window edge and the shelf too narrow so the lower front window line must stay equal the the cabside window lower edge. I think it is possible to glue the window roof unit into the bodtshell just marginally higher and then file away the flat shelf face to meet with the bodyshell and thus create a smooth seamless union. I am also wondering if the bodyshell cab bulkhead should be cut away as well... this will make access to glazing easier. A proper replacement bulkhead plus cab desk can be ordered from Laurie at JLTRT... maybe also order the fan grill etches as that bit of gauze PRMRP sent with their kit conversion looks like it makes for very hard work in order to get the top of the model to right.  Another thing also that I noticed (and have corrected) is that on the BBT bodyshell the smaller side window next to the double access doors should be a wider one like the middle windows, the other narrow window next the the side vent grills and single access door is the only smal bodyside window... this will need one of the PRMPR side window frame etches cutting down to suit. Oh for the challenges of scratch building. One final thing I have noticed is that there is a subtle difference on the second batch of Hymeks (D7045 - 7100), on these the cabs are fitted with a pair of brackets just above the train describer box, presumable the Western Region specified this as an additional item to fix nameboards.

 

Just as a matter of interest Duncan what are your thoughts on making a sub frame? I'd wondered about something from brass sheet with bogie cut outs that could screw/bolt onto side strengthening bars on the bodyshell, the bogie brackets could solder to this and the sub frame could carry the cab detail... desk seats back bulkhead... maybe four bolts/screws that undid to release the bodyshell when the cab window units and roof are permenantly glued fast. I like the video BTW thanks for posting it.

 

cheers Paul

 

Paul

 

Looking at my Hymek, yes there appears to be plenty of meat at the front of the "shelf" to file away. The cab windows will have to be glued in and the gaps filled first, which means the cab interior is inaccessible from the outside so I was going to cut out the floor and bulkhead.

 

I didn't know JLTRT did a cab interior. I emailed Laurie a few weeks ago and got a list of their Hymek castings, but no cab bulkhead or desk was mentioned. I sourced a set of resin castings from Peter Clark to do the job instead. These seem a bit rough but probably a lot cheaper (£25 + P&P) than JLTRT.

 

I hadn't noticed the wrong side windows. Thanks Paul - I will take a good look now.

 

Re nameboard brackets: luckily mine will be a very early Hymek as I want it to run on my 1962 layout and only the first few had gone to service by then.

 

Chassis subframe: I hadn't got that far in my planning! It seems like a good idea if it will help with removable cab interiors, speakers etc. I was going to carve away as much of the blue plastic as I can, then assess whether I can fit the cab floor/bulkhead units so that they are removable. There should be a huge hole underneath each end when the bogies are removed but making the central section unbolt would be a good move as well.

 

Please keep us posted on your conversion  with pictures!

 

Cheers,

Duncan

[Is Line Clear]

Looking at my Hymek, yes there appears to be plenty of meat at the front of the "shelf" to file away. The cab windows will have to be glued in and the gaps filled first, which means the cab interior is inaccessible from the outside so I was going to cut out the floor and bulkhead.

 

I didn't know JLTRT did a cab interior. I emailed Laurie a few weeks ago and got a list of their Hymek castings, but no cab bulkhead or desk was mentioned. I sourced a set of resin castings from Peter Clark to do the job instead. These seem a bit rough but probably a lot cheaper (£25 + P&P) than JLTRT.

 

I hadn't noticed the wrong side windows. Thanks Paul - I will take a good look now.

 

Re nameboard brackets: luckily mine will be a very early Hymek as I want it to run on my 1962 layout and only the first few had gone to service by then.

 

Chassis subframe: I hadn't got that far in my planning! It seems like a good idea if it will help with removable cab interiors, speakers etc. I was going to carve away as much of the blue plastic as I can, then assess whether I can fit the cab floor/bulkhead units so that they are removable. There should be a huge hole underneath each end when the bogies are removed but making the central section unbolt would be a good move as well.

 

Please keep us posted on your conversion  with pictures!

 

Cheers,

Duncan

Hi Duncan,

 

Well you've certainly rebooted my Hymek build, so a big thank you for that, So this evening I've been studying cab profiles and conclude the following:-

 

You are absolutely correct in saying the window / roof unit will need to be glued to the main bodyshell first, also remove the cab bulkhead for easier access when glazing. I have sawn away both the floor and the bulkhead, in fact the PRMRP kit says to carefully remove the floor and buffer beam in order to fit the new buffer beam casting.

 

From studying pictures there is a good 1mm of removable blue plastic below the front cab windows that will allow for a 30degree forward slant, the slant should follow the line of the inward side slope along the cab side windows and door, in other words on the BBT Hymek there is simply too much plastic in that area. I think also that the distance between the continuious front end grab rail and the start of the "shelf" curve will be more realistic. At the moment the amount of flat cab front above the long cab grab rail and the existing curve to shelf on the model is too much by at least 1mm to almost 1.25mm, so that becomes the amount of plastic that can be fettled away. Probably a case of stop when it looks right.

 

Another helpful observation is that if we strike an imaginary line from the top of the cast loco numbers then the line should extend through the centre of the cab door handle quadrant insert and going the other way the line should meet the cab front grab rail... this should all help to get the shelf profile correct.

 

it is only the one engine room small side window that must be enlarged, it is the one above the two parallel frame bars and next to the double engine room access doors..

I'll post a few pics tomorrow Duncan of what I've done.

 

Cheers for now Paul

Edited November 9, 2017 by Is Line Clear

[Fastdax]

it is only the one engine room small side window that must be enlarged, it is the one above the two parallel frame bars and next to the double engine room access doors..

I'll post a few pics tomorrow Duncan of what I've done.

 

Cheers for now Paul

 

I dug out the PRMRP scarf of whitemetal castings and there are four of the same (large) window frames. (Sorry for the reflections).

 

 

So one needs cutting down to fit the small window and one needs fitting to an enlarged window aperture by the double doors.

 

Looking forwards to some pictures.

[Is Line Clear]

I dug out the PRMRP scarf of whitemetal castings and there are four of the same (large) window frames. (Sorry for the reflections).

 

2017-11-09 001.JPG

 

So one needs cutting down to fit the small window and one needs fitting to an enlarged window aperture by the double doors.

 

Looking forwards to some pictures.

No please don't do that Duncan... the four white metal castings in the wrap are not window frames! Phil Dyson put me right as these castings are very crude looking representations of the bogie footsteps... he advised me to buy the footstep detailing pack for Hymeks from  PH Designs, the pack comes with the correct shape footstep etches that just fold to and solder but also included are a set of Timken roller bearing axlebox covers. Here is the link:-

 

http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_35_67&product_id=179

 

I think the brass window frame surrounds are on a seperate etch in the PRMRP kit.

 

BTW today I am going to file the front shelf profile !

cheers Paul