Pelham Street Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 I am contemplating building a LBSCR Craven 2-2-2T in O gauge and am not sure the best way to get the most power out of it. It will haul a half dozen four wheelers. Has anyone any thoughts on this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted July 28, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 28, 2017 ISTR Burgundy of this parish managing to make sense of a similar Brighton loco in 4mm. And I think some years ago, again in 4mm, Russ Pochin did good things with a Furness 2-2-2, possibly by powering the leading and trailing axles, rather than the driver. I intend no disrespect when I say it ought to be slightly easier in the larger scale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Which Craven single tank do you have in mind? The one featured in this thread was based on some castings of a Sharpie in 4mm scale. Chris Cox of 5&9 Models has also scratch built one of the tank engines in 4mm scale http://www.5and9models.co.uk/scratch.html and Peter Smith has built a Craven single in 7mm scale for Saltdean. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98308-saltdean-lbscr-in-0-gauge/ There are also some thoughts on getting traction out of a single in a couple of recent editions of LB&SCR Modellers' Digest (link in signature block). I hope that this helps Best wishes Eric PS Sorry but the button for adding a link to a piece of text went on strike after doing the first one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Its about making sure the driving axle always has weight on it as much as anything. Personally I would consider a double chassis with a heavy 0-2-2 chassis with as much weight as possible over the driving axle pivoting around the trailing axle and a separate 2-0-2 chassis taking the weight of the superstructure on leading and trailing axles. There is little reason why you can't use two 00 motors and power all the axles, could be quite fun. or use a model car differential to power both trailing and driving axles from the same motor, in fact with a heavily weighted trailing axle and lightly loaded driving axle this should be most realistic as furious wheelslip would rob power from the trailing axle so it would probably not move rather than the take off like a scalded cat mode most models adopt when slipping furiously. Contemporary reports suggest the gentle slipping of singles on starting was quite a feature and marked out skilled drivers from their unskilled colleagues. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 "Kirtley Pete" of this parish has built one for this layouts. I think he built it form a kit, not sure who is the manufacturer. He is the best person to PM for more details. Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelham Street Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 Many thanks, will try to contact him Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hallmodelspares Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Single wheelers have a problem with usually creating a lot of wheel slip especially due in part to gear ratio and size of the wheel itself. Hornby have this problem with single wheelers they make, even traction tyres on the big wheel have not helped. I agree with the idea of drive to the outer wheels and perhaps as mentioned weight as well to help. If building tendered single wheeler I would consider motorizing the tender instead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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