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When TT3 was the next Big Thing


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Just over a week ago I saw a GNR N gauge Stirling Single that had been done on Shapeways. I contacted the designer to ask if he would resize to 3mm and in a material that has a good finish. He said no problem and last Tuesday after showing me the design sent it to Shapeways and I placed an order at Tuesday lunch time. By Thursday morning it had been dispatched and arrived here yesterday. The finish was a lot better than others I have had and the fine grain easily sanded out with fine wet n dry. Primed now waiting for some colour.

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These two TT Britannia's were in poor condition with most lining missing and Robin Hood had a lot of black missing. The valances I painted the orange lines but decided on transfers for everything else. Fox for the lining and Railtec for the cabside numbers.

They are finished in two different satin varnish finishes. William Shakespeare using Phoenix satin and Robin Hood using Railmatch satin.

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49 minutes ago, Silverfox17 said:

My Lincoln-Locos 08 3D body having a test after moving the coupling rods further in as initially they fouled the platform sides.

 

A huge improvement over the 'standard' Triang inside-frame shunter!  Given all your locomotives look like plausible 'what-if' models, as if Triang etc continued the range, with the big coupling rods this looks a lot like the sort of model that would have resulted if Wrenn had tooled up a TT model based off their ex-Dublo 08 :)

 

With the Triang 08, I've got one in the round-tuit box, and I've been tempted to see if it could be bodged into a representation of D0226 "Vulcan", with a bit of cutting and shutting to see if a more convincing model can be done that uses an inside-frame chassis;

 

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(My shot, taken just before the summer near Haworth)

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Ben B said:

With the Triang 08, I've got one in the round-tuit box, and I've been tempted to see if it could be bodged into a representation of D0226 "Vulcan", with a bit of cutting and shutting to see if a more convincing model can be done that uses an inside-frame chassis

Is this the TT model you are referring to?  I have one I was modifying and got as far as closer wheel spacing, and, I drilled the axles completely through to fit a rod to attach outside cranks to. That was as far as I got.

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5 nice little 4 wheelers arrived today to go behind the Single, only ordered on Sunday evening from Shapeways. In reality a few more would be appropriate but doubt that will happen. These are really nice and I now need to work out how to do a good Teak paint job. One is open for a motor bogie which was just in case I could not fit one in the tender so now I will be able to fit an interior.

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Had a go at toning down a teak 4 wheeler.  Each side has had a different darker shade applied and will have to decide which is best and/or add another shade, or two. The ones either side have not been touched yet.  The white roofs look as if they might need toning down too.

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Just arrived back from Blackpool to find this waiting for me.  It is a little grubby with some lining missing and one front end split.  But, it was only a fraction of the cost of others I have seen, which, have only been 5 anyway in about 10 years.  I will clean it up and touch up the lining, the front split will need a strengthener glued on the inside.  One buffer housing is split so might need either a buffer gluing in or a new housing fitted.   One transfer has worn so may have to use a Fox one.

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3 non common items arrived. A square window SR suburban brake, that makes 2 for a local so no more of these needed.  A composite SR with square windows was never made.

My first genuine grey roofed wagon, a fruit van.

A second brown goods van. This wagon came in various Grey's and white but not common in brown.

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Is anyone still using TT-3 products (as opposed to TT or H0m products from the likes of Tillig)- especially those from Tri-ang- as the basis for narrow gauge modelling? There was quite a lot of that in the period when Tri-ang was marketing TT-3 before N scale and hence OO9 and H0e appeared. The Rev. P.H.Heath comes immediately to mind but there were others using it for Manx or Irish 3ft.

I'm curious because I recentlly came across a modeller who started using it (with locos adapted from Tri-ang Jinties) fairly recently to represent a metre gauge steam tramway. He's mainly using Tri-ang Series 2 track and points plus some Peco H0m flextrack but I wondered  if there were still others.

Am I right in thinking that Tri-angs track and wheel standards are incompatible with modern TT/H0m standards?

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1 hour ago, Pacific231G said:

Is anyone still using TT-3 products (as opposed to TT or H0m products from the likes of Tillig)- especially those from Tri-ang- as the basis for narrow gauge modelling? There was quite a lot of that in the period when Tri-ang was marketing TT-3 before N scale and hence OO9 and H0e appeared. The Rev. P.H.Heath comes immediately to mind but there were others using it for Manx or Irish 3ft.

I'm curious because I recentlly came across a modeller who started using it (with locos adapted from Tri-ang Jinties) fairly recently to represent a metre gauge steam tramway. He's mainly using Tri-ang Series 2 track and points plus some Peco H0m flextrack but I wondered  if there were still others.

Am I right in thinking that Tri-angs track and wheel standards are incompatible with modern TT/H0m standards?

No idea as I only use Tri-ang wheels or Romford/Jackson ones. I only use Peco track with point work adjusted and certain wheels modified.  I have no experience of other makes. As very few people, if any unfortunately apart from me, post on here you might have to look at other threads for an answer.

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Hi Garry ! sorry been off air for a while due to issues with getting on RM Web to do anything- majority of issue fixed by Andy York but cannot now see archived stuff of mine of projects so will have to start again - busy day aT Banbury with 3mm guys - all sorts going on perhaps 12 modellers met for 4 days - I only managed last part of last day, work thing getting in the way again!

12 and 14.2 projects being progressed - I managed to repair some wagons others building locos and track - a newly started layout of Winchester Cheshill on show - gent fixing track down - copperclad built points and track in 14.2  and some 12mm 9F progress by another , 12 kitmasters being  upgraded to 14.2 with compensated bogies- loads of 12ba nuts and bolts ...  This nudge to mojo means trying to sort stock boxes tonight .  will try to do better!

Robert     

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Remember reading how somebody rewheeled Triang rolling stock, but can't remember where I read it. It described using flangeless bearings from 3SMR to fit pin-point axles. That bit I'm OK with. What I'm not sure about is how you remove the Triang axles in the first place. Any ideas?

Nigel

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The axles need to be carefully drifted out. While the axle box and chassis is supported…

 

It is best if you can find out which side of the axle has the spline. As this is the end that should come out first.

 

Sometimes, it is possible to identify the wheel that the axle spline is in.

Turning the wheel on one side, while holding the other side on the same axle, observe the axle ends.

 

if the wheel you are turning turns the axle in the axle box holes, then this is probably the spline end. 
 

Note, this is not infallible, as the axles can get stuck in the wheels…

 

 

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1 hour ago, NCB said:

Remember reading how somebody rewheeled Triang rolling stock, but can't remember where I read it. It described using flangeless bearings from 3SMR to fit pin-point axles. That bit I'm OK with. What I'm not sure about is how you remove the Triang axles in the first place. Any ideas?

Nigel

I just use one side of a pair of long nosed pliers to push the axle until I can pull it from the other side.

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Obtained an SR C2 loco recently. This was fitted with a motor in the tender and a prop shaft to a gear on the locos rear axle. However, this was no good as the distance was too short and with just one universal joint there was no flexibility and the joint held the loco wheels of the rails. Therefore I decided to fit one of my gearboxes in with a small Mashima motor.  It meant filing the frame thickness down to allow the axlebox to slide in (my own chassis's are wider for this). Then I had to remove a lot of lead and some material from the firebox and it has now given me a nice runner, especially as 3 of these made it into BR days.

 

The wheels are TT Romfords too, not 00.

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