Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Finished putting the transfers and the "247 Developments" nameplates on the B17 and Lord Nelson, just need a sunny warm day to varnish them. I do not like the Fox N gauge transfers and will be using 00 again in the future. The Lord Nelson plates need touching up as they do not have the raised beading the paint has chipped a little, plus I need to draw and get etched some valve gear for it. Garry 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted March 20, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 20, 2021 8 hours ago, Golden Fleece 30 said: I do not like the Fox N gauge transfers and will be using 00 again in the future. Why not use my 3mm. / TT transfers; all listed on the Cambridge Custom Transfers website? John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverfox17 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 43 minutes ago, cctransuk said: Why not use my 3mm. / TT transfers; all listed on the Cambridge Custom Transfers website? John Isherwood. You once told me a long time ago you did not do loco lining as there were too many different types of curves to produce a sheet. I have seen some wagon transfers but these seem to show a carrier film around them which I don't like. Maybe the ones I saw needed cutting closer but I am not into cutting around transfers. If what I saw was something done wrong by the builder can you guarantee their is no trimming to do (apart from lengths) and no carrier film seen? Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted March 20, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 20, 2021 54 minutes ago, Silverfox17 said: You once told me a long time ago you did not do loco lining as there were too many different types of curves to produce a sheet. I have seen some wagon transfers but these seem to show a carrier film around them which I don't like. Maybe the ones I saw needed cutting closer but I am not into cutting around transfers. If what I saw was something done wrong by the builder can you guarantee their is no trimming to do (apart from lengths) and no carrier film seen? Garry I don't, as you say, do loco lining - for the reasons that you refer to. There is absolutely no need for waterslide transfers to show the carrier film, IF they are applied correctly; (my transfer instructions give detailed instructions. Many modellers insist on trying to apply such transfers to matt or satin surfaces - these MUST be gloss - after sealing the transfers, whatever surface finish you require can be applied. As to trimming around transfers - it's totally unnecessary! Just cut a rectangle around the chosen transfer and apply it; there will be no visible carrier film if the correct procedures are adopted. The choice is yours, of course, but I offer what must be by far the widest range of transfers for 3mm. / TT models; (and all the other scales too). They are used by some of the most well-known names amongst 3mm. / TT modellers. Regards, John Isherwood. https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverfox17 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 44 minutes ago, cctransuk said: I don't, as you say, do loco lining - for the reasons that you refer to. John, please don't take this the wrong way and I am not being rude but your initial post to mine seems very wierd and not applicable. I was talking about lining my locos and going back to 00 from the N ones used here and you said why don't I use your 3mm ones yet you admit you don't do the lining so what was the point? The numbers and crests I use are 00 and no problem anyway. Garry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted March 20, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 20, 2021 2 hours ago, Silverfox17 said: John, please don't take this the wrong way and I am not being rude but your initial post to mine seems very wierd and not applicable. I was talking about lining my locos and going back to 00 from the N ones used here and you said why don't I use your 3mm ones yet you admit you don't do the lining so what was the point? The numbers and crests I use are 00 and no problem anyway. Garry Garry, That may be what you thought you were talking about, but you didn't actually mention lining : - "Finished putting the transfers and the "247 Developments" nameplates on the B17 and Lord Nelson, just need a sunny warm day to varnish them. I do not like the Fox N gauge transfers and will be using 00 again in the future." You can perhaps see why I might have been mislead? John Isherwood. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 Just received some wheels and crankpins for the WD, 8F and Z locos from the 3mm society spares. I also got a couple of the etched replacement motion brackets for the Britannia and was surprised they are all made up and painted, very good value for £5 for this item where the original does break easily. Garry 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted March 20, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2021 Shows the value of 3mm soc membership and the long levity of Triang parts - A big thank you to the staff of the long lost Margate factory - hours spent building batches of TT wheels , I wonder if they could imagine that the first use in "anger" would be 2021. The brackets - really good I did not know they existed but next time I know where to go. Happy modelling.- Today could in poor taste be regarded as a "Fred West day "- been pottering with 12 bodies in the work room. - painted several bodies in 3mm and 2mm/ N today. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverfox17 Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 (edited) 19 hours ago, Robert Shrives said: A big thank you to the staff of the long lost Margate factory - hours spent building batches of TT wheels , I wonder if they could imagine that the first use in "anger" would be 2021 I don't think these are spare Margate wheels Robert but from non runners where they get the spares from. I am not one for people scrapping good models for profiteering but these are sold to members at very cheap prices just to help keep Tri-ang running. Garry Edited March 21, 2021 by Silverfox17 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Another decision, do I put the coach roof boards above or below the cantrail? On BR Mk 1's they were on the sides above the windows, on Bulleid/Maunsell they were on the roof although higher than here. I think because they are 00 and a little over size the above cantrail would be better. I decided to go for the above cantrail only because of the depth too close to the windows, and, I like the look above. Looks okay and will be easily seen when it is a stopper in York South. Headboard from 247 Developments, coach boards Fox 00 transfers on etched plates. Garry 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 The J52 is now awaiting its numberplate from 247 Developments then a coat of flat varnish and it will be complete. Bodies are available from lennyapplegreen on Ebay. Fox 00 small crest and numbers were just a little too big for this so large N gauge ones were used. The numbers and crests are far better to apply than their N gauge lining. The number looks odd in its place high up the bunker but is as prototype. Garry 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodshaw Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 Very nice. I suppose one advantage of using the Tri-ang chassis is that you don't have to think about adding extra weight to what must be a very light body. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 Put a few name and numberplates tonight, photos show things I did not want to see, things that the naked eye misses lol Garry 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 (edited) Butler Henderson "completed" with the 247 Developments name and number plates. The Precision Satin varnish looks to glossy to me (as the J52 did). I may respray one day with Railmatch satin, as in the locos above, but it will be fine for now. The wheels may need touching up but it is a lovely model, especially as I was given it for nothing. I was told that this loco was never lined out in BR black during steam days although it was in preservation so I have gone for unlined. Garry Edited March 25, 2021 by Golden Fleece 30 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 (edited) Fingers crossed everything fits as I planned and I should have a busy weekend with these chassis kits. With 3 to do though it might be longer than the weekend as I only get a couple of hours or so a night. These are an SR Z class 0-8-0, 8F and 2-8-0 WD. Lenny Seeney who does the 3D bodies has made both the 2-8-0 and 2-10-0 WD's. Garry Edited March 26, 2021 by Golden Fleece 30 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Belcher Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 On 25/03/2021 at 15:31, Golden Fleece 30 said: Butler Henderson "completed" with the 247 Developments name and number plates. The Precision Satin varnish looks to glossy to me (as the J52 did). I may respray one day with Railmatch satin, as in the locos above, but it will be fine for now. The wheels may need touching up but it is a lovely model, especially as I was given it for nothing. I was told that this loco was never lined out in BR black during steam days although it was in preservation so I have gone for unlined. Garry Lining must have been selectively applied to English D11s; the Scottish ones with painted names rather than cast plates appear to have all carried lined BR black. Years ago I built a model of "Princess Mary" around a Rovex 2P footplate and chassis and that too was lined black in real life so painted accordingly. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roythebus1 Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 Many years ago a friend was into TT, he was offered quite a bit of stuff form someone at work who was packing it up. This must have been 1969-1970. The collection included a load of kit-built locos and some modified pannier tanks. I don't know what happened to that lot, but my pal ended up marrying my cousin! I'll have to ask him where the stock went after all these years. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverfox17 Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 7 hours ago, David_Belcher said: Lining must have been selectively applied to English D11s; the Scottish ones with painted names rather than cast plates appear to have all carried lined BR black. Years ago I built a model of "Princess Mary" around a Rovex 2P footplate and chassis and that too was lined black in real life so painted accordingly. David Thats what I was told David, all Scottish ones lined and all English ones unlined. I tried to find if any English were ever lined but no luck so went along with what I was told. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted March 27, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 27, 2021 https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=4381 Steve at Railtec has just released a 3mm version of some air braked freight transfers. Hopefully more to follow. Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted March 27, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 27, 2021 https://lincoln-loco.co.uk/ Lenny has spent many hours I am sure, web presence now up and running, much to enjoy even after a quick look about. Robert 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 Started the chassis's tonight and looking good so far. Hopefully get one set of valve gear done tomorrow night. Also managed to do some steps folding up on piece of nickel, the solder is to just strengthen the joints and still needs cleaning up. It will certainly make steps easier, and stronger. Garry 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 The WD chassis as it looks now after it has had a run. The return crank etc will be attached once the chassis is painted and everything else is attached. Garry 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben B Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 For those of you who model with Triang TT, can I ask a question please? Do the Triang models run reasonably on the Peco H0m/12mm track? I have a few Triang bits I'd like to get running, but the only proper Triang track I have is pretty rusty and horrible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 (edited) A few minutes spare before lunch and I have modified Leonard Seeney's WD body for my Tri-ang style chassis and it fits a treat. I do need to get some plain wheels for the tender but looking okay so far. The tender wheels do line up but the frames are not screwed to the body yet. The motor screw mount at the back will be removed and therefore nothing protruding as the motor is held in using the screw through the pole pieces and magnet. Garry Edited March 29, 2021 by Golden Fleece 30 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 26 minutes ago, Ben B said: For those of you who model with Triang TT, can I ask a question please? Do the Triang models run reasonably on the Peco H0m/12mm track? I have a few Triang bits I'd like to get running, but the only proper Triang track I have is pretty rusty and horrible. The answer is loco wheels not straight away. There are two different ways to do this. 1) move the wheels out on the axles approx 0.5mm but that can stop them going around Tri-ang track although if Tri-ang track is not going to be used again no problem. I modify the points, straight ones are very easy and it just needs about 0.25 to 0.5 removing from the plastic checkrail only. Double slips and curved points need a little extra work but if you look up GarryHall on YouTube you should find one or two of my videos. My locos are nearly all Tri-ang based but if not the 00 Romfords are used. Some Jinty's, and all open spoked, wheels will hit the chairs so need the flange depth reducing slightly. The stock wheels should be okay if you put a 0.5 washer in the gap. Garry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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