60091 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Hi Peter A happy new year to you and your family. Nice work on the Peak. You've brought your weathering skills and the ability to personalise locos from 00 to 0 gauge - small details like the open cab windows and the silver window frames which 45036 had towards the end of her career. Regards Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Happy New Year everyone. Still no work on the layout though I have moved it into the garage and hopefully will set up a board this week to start some wiring although I still have another board to build. I have almost finished my Peak though. decals are DRD Thanks Alex they went on a treat. Cheers Peter. Ooohhh don't, that looks rather nice Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 Hi Peter A happy new year to you and your family. Nice work on the Peak. You've brought your weathering skills and the ability to personalise locos from 00 to 0 gauge - small details like the open cab windows and the silver window frames which 45036 had towards the end of her career. Regards Alan Thanks Alan, Happy New Year to you and our family too. I did the weathering over a number of days as there is more area to cover. The open cab window was how it came, Heljan do open windows on a few of the loco's My 4mm class 33s have them too. It is a nice touch. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 Ooohhh don't, that looks rather nice Peter. Ha ha sorry Andy hope it doesn't tempt you. Though I must admit I keep eyeing off those Dapol Jinty's. The weathering on yours is great. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 So still no progress on the layout but I have finished weathering up this VAA. A quick question while I am here. I have an NCE powercab for my 00 layout. Will a Powercab be ok to use with 7mm? Cheers Peter. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdseyecircus Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Pete, my NCE power cab will happily run a sound fitted Heljan diesel along with a Dapol 08 which does me. I think running two or more Heljans would require a booster. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 So still no progress on the layout but I have finished weathering up this VAA. A quick question while I am here. I have an NCE powercab for my 00 layout. Will a Powercab be ok to use with 7mm? Cheers Peter. Very nice and subtle weathering Peter. Re your NCE Powercab, I use my Gaugemaster Prodigy 2 for my stuff with no issues, even on the Clubs 60+ft Dornoch Branch, so you should be fine I would have thought. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 I use an NCE Powercab without any problems on Cwm Bach and I like the ease of programming. We use the Powercab to test all Minerva locos that we fit with DCC sound equipment. Previously, I used a Gaugemaster Prodigy 2, but the handset has packed up after many years of good service. Regards, CK Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 I plan to use NCE for my 0 gauge layout. Mine is a bit big (but not as big as some) and will have all sound equipped locos. I've read here that sound draws quite a bit of current so, to be on the safe side I bought a booster but haven't set it up yet. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 Pete, my NCE power cab will happily run a sound fitted Heljan diesel along with a Dapol 08 which does me. I think running two or more Heljans would require a booster. Paul Thanks paul, I am only going to be running one loco at a time thats good news. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 Very nice and subtle weathering Peter. Re your NCE Powercab, I use my Gaugemaster Prodigy 2 for my stuff with no issues, even on the Clubs 60+ft Dornoch Branch, so you should be fine I would have thought. Thanks Andy, I quite enjoy weathering the 7mm stuff. When I was first looking into going DCC I was looking at getting the Prodigy but the price of the NCE won me in the end. Seems like the NCE should do the trick. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 I use an NCE Powercab without any problems on Cwm Bach and I like the ease of programming. We use the Powercab to test all Minerva locos that we fit with DCC sound equipment. Previously, I used a Gaugemaster Prodigy 2, but the handset has packed up after many years of good service. Regards, CK Hi Chris, Thanks Nice layout by the way. My worry was that the Heljan draw a bit more power. It seems that a few 7mm guys are using the Powercab so it should be ok for my little shunting layout. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 I plan to use NCE for my 0 gauge layout. Mine is a bit big (but not as big as some) and will have all sound equipped locos. I've read here that sound draws quite a bit of current so, to be on the safe side I bought a booster but haven't set it up yet. John Thanks John, I plan to put sound in a few loco's at some point. I will see how I go and it I have problems will get a booster. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 22, 2018 Author Share Posted March 22, 2018 Hi All, I have made a start on wiring, and have put a few droppers in. I have also modified my Peco points a bit more as I have decided to use a few Tortoise point motors. The slight problem is I have googled how to wire these up. There seems to be different ways of doing it so any advice would be great. What I am not sure about is what terminal to wire the frog too, as I only have the one wire coming from the point and some wiring diagrams have two. also I am going to use a DPDT switch but some of mine are, on on and some are on off on. Any help would be great cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 (edited) Hi All, I have made a start on wiring, and have put a few droppers in. I have also modified my Peco points a bit more as I have decided to use a few Tortoise point motors. The slight problem is I have googled how to wire these up. There seems to be different ways of doing it so any advice would be great. What I am not sure about is what terminal to wire the frog too, as I only have the one wire coming from the point and some wiring diagrams have two. also I am going to use a DPDT switch but some of mine are, on on and some are on off on. Any help would be great cheers Peter. Hope this is of some help Peter. Edited March 22, 2018 by Andrew P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 23, 2018 Author Share Posted March 23, 2018 peco 4.gif peco 2.jpg peco 3.jpg peco 2.jpg Hope this is of some help Peter. Thanks Andy. Yes that is helpful and it shows what I have done so far is right with regards to the point wiring. I am still not sure what terimal on the tortoise I wire the frog wire too though. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 (edited) Thanks Andy. Yes that is helpful and it shows what I have done so far is right with regards to the point wiring. I am still not sure what terimal on the tortoise I wire the frog wire too though. Cheers Peter. Nor am I Peter, and as I'm considering Tortoise next time / for the first time, it would be good to know. I also need to know the depth of the Tortoise Motor. Edited March 24, 2018 by Andrew P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Nor am I Peter, and as I'm considering Tortoise next time / for the first time, it would be good to know. I also need to know the depth of the Tortoise Motor. Hi Guys, The Tortoise motors are three and a quarter inches long in old money as the saying goes. In the photo below the green wire goes to the frog, the red and black go to the running rails and the two outside wires ( blue and yellow ) are for the switch itself. The additional terminals are for directional lighting if I remember correctly. I run all the wires to a chocolate box in case I have to replace the motor and also it's easier to swap the wires over if the black and red are the wrong way round . All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Martyn make sure those wires soldered to the board off the Tortoise are secure. If they can move you might get a short - ask me how I know - and at a show as well - aaaarghhh! I would use D connectors now. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Hi Guys, The Tortoise motors are three and a quarter inches long in old money as the saying goes. In the photo below the green wire goes to the frog, the red and black go to the running rails and the two outside wires ( blue and yellow ) are for the switch itself. The additional terminals are for directional lighting if I remember correctly. I run all the wires to a chocolate box in case I have to replace the motor and also it's easier to swap the wires over if the black and red are the wrong way round . IMG_0485.JPG All the best, Martyn. Thanks for all the info Martin, There to tall / long for my project, my boards are only 2 1/2 inches deep, so I will stick to the Traintronics TT300 that are DCC Ready if reqd. There a tadge noisier and faster than the Tortoise but are very reliable, I used them on West Shed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Martyn make sure those wires soldered to the board off the Tortoise are secure. If they can move you might get a short - ask me how I know - and at a show as well - aaaarghhh! I would use D connectors now. John Hi John, I know the feeling, I had a dry joint on one a while back and let's just say it took a long time for me to track down the loose wire.... Thanks for all the info Martin, There to tall / long for my project, my boards are only 2 1/2 inches deep, so I will stick to the Traintronics TT300 that are DCC Ready if reqd. There a tadge noisier and faster than the Tortoise but are very reliable, I used them on West Shed. Hi Andrew, I'm fairly certain you can buy an adapter so that they can still work laying on there side, no doubt someone will help out with the suppliers name... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Hi John, I know the feeling, I had a dry joint on one a while back and let's just say it took a long time for me to track down the loose wire.... Yes the short was a swine to track down, I thought the weekend was a goner. Happily a solution was found but it was scary. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Thanks for the help Andy Martyn and John. I managed to fit two motors tonight and have soldered wires to the point motor, I like the idea of wiring them to a connector block so will get some tomorrow. I also need to find a 12v power supply so any cheap idea's welcome. Cheers Peter. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 I also need to find a 12v power supply so any cheap idea's welcome. Cheers Peter. I've had a couple off Ebay recently, one to power my Megapoints board and the other to power tyhe signal LED's. I've3 also just ordered a 6A one to power my control panel which will include switching my Cobalt IP's. Jinty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 I've had a couple off Ebay recently, one to power my Megapoints board and the other to power tyhe signal LED's. I've3 also just ordered a 6A one to power my control panel which will include switching my Cobalt IP's. Jinty Thanks Jinty, I had a look the other day but tried 12 volt transformer rather than power supply and got some better results. It does bring up another question though, and that is what Amps do I need ? There was quite a lot to choose from. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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