micked Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 (edited) Hi Micked,Which transfers did you use on the container? (I appreciate that they should be yellow however knowing where you got them will help immensely) Hi Risdale. The ones I used are from Modelmaster. I think from sheet: MM8055 Parkside PC52 B.R. Conflat A with BD Container for the container. Mick Edited August 15, 2017 by micked Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 That looks so much better Mick. To be frank, I think that 3' 4" would be the specified height of the buffer centres as new, but worn springs could reduce the measurement and certainly prototype photos would bear this out. (Come to think of it, worn out wheels would also be a factor in the ride height of a wagon, so 3' 3" would also be acceptable as a minimum - unless someone else knows better of course!) Enjoying watching your kit building progress, Colin At risk of sounding very picky, I've always worked to a 14mm rail to buffer centre ideal, as I'd thought the magic figure was 3ft 6in, and I'd be glad to be corrected if I'm wrong. LMS loco drawings as reproduced by Wild Swan show 3ft 5 and a half inches. Long ago when I was young I got quite excited about this, but as you say worn tyres and weak springs can cause quite a drop, and there are lots of photos to show this, even with diesel locos side by side let alone wagons that have seen better days. RTR manufacturers seem to be all over the place with this height, once it was the norm that locos sat too high, but now it can be either way, my early Bachmann Warships and Class 20's are examples of locos with the buffers too low. Lots of scope for beating ourselves up here, but I'm not sure its worth it! John. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micked Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 With respect, the container should have considerably more lettering - the dimensions etc. were quoted in both imperial and metric units. I can supply a range of authentic container transfers - see Sheets S1, BL37, BL38, BL39, BL40, BL52 & BL53 at https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm . Regards, John Isherwood. Thanks cctransuk. I've had a quick look through your website, and that's quite a mind boggling selection of transfers, and I'll certainly be putting in an order next time I need to letter one of my wagons. Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micked Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 It's been ages since I last posted here, but this morning I managed to complete my first kit in quite a while. No it's not a crude attempt at the Fell, but a Poppy's Loco Builder Box. I gave in to temptation at the Peterborough show a month or two ago and bought a Comet chassis. I should get around to starting it in a week or two - exciting times! As for the Loco Builder Box; it went together a treat. Assembly took half an hour at the most, and the best part of that time was taken up checking that everything was solid and square. Let's hope that the chassis construction is just as straightforward. Until the next time, All the best Mick 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micked Posted December 9, 2017 Author Share Posted December 9, 2017 (edited) I spent a very pleasant couple of hours today, starting a Comet N2 chassis. The Poppy's jig described in the last post seems to have worked a treat, and everything seems to have come out nice and square and solid. Surprise, surprise the chassis with coupling rods even rolls along very freely smoothly indeed, with the lightest prod of the little finger. As feared/expected there were a couple of minor mishaps along the way. I'm either going to have to be a lot more careful or failing that make some sort of contraption to make knocking over the bottle of liquid flux more difficult. Probably the latter. So far, so good and I'm feeling quite pleased with progress so far. All the best Mick (Edited for silly typo) Edited December 9, 2017 by micked 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Davis Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 I'm either going to have to be a lot more careful or failing that make some sort of contraption to make knocking over the bottle of liquid flux more difficult. Probably the latter. Someone on the forum ( I think it was Chubber, apologies to whoever it was if it wasn't Chubber - I can't find the post now) made such a contraption with a base of card topped by other pieces of card glued at right angles to each other using the bottle to determine the size. Sorry I can't be more specific and I am sure others on here will be able to point you in the right direction. I haven't built one (yet) but it looks just the job. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micked Posted December 9, 2017 Author Share Posted December 9, 2017 Someone on the forum ( I think it was Chubber, apologies to whoever it was if it wasn't Chubber - I can't find the post now) made such a contraption with a base of card topped by other pieces of card glued at right angles to each other using the bottle to determine the size. Sorry I can't be more specific and I am sure others on here will be able to point you in the right direction. I haven't built one (yet) but it looks just the job. Thanks Anthony! That sounds like just the sort of thing I need to make. Liquid flux all over the kitchen worktop probably isn't a good idea. (The reason I work in the kitchen is because it has a good extractor fan, which is handy for fumes. It's also nice and warm, which is handy for December) Mick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
serron Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 A few scraps of timber. Regards. Serron. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted December 10, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 10, 2017 My approach with liquid flux is to apply it using a syringe, so (once the syringe has been filled) the lid can stay on the bottle avoiding any risk of spillage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted December 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 10, 2017 If you are using Carr's flux, the bottle sits perfectly in to tealight holders. This one is from Ikea, no chance of that being knocked over. Other "brands" are available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micked Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 Thanks for those ingenious flux bottle tips everyone. I'll keep a look out for suitable scraps this week and see what I come up with. Snow and freezing weather kept me at home today, giving me the opportunity to progress with the chassis. Next step was going to be the construction and installation of the Comet gearbox. Everything was going very nicely until I managed to loosen the worm's grub screw a bit too much, which sent it flying away to goodness knows where. Not a disaster, but it did mean the end of work for the day. I've ordered a few more grub screws from Wizard, and construction will continue in a few days' time. Here's a shot of progress so far, and everything is still square and free-running. Must clean out the rest of those filings from the gearbox -- it's amazing what photos reveal. Thanks again Anthony, 57xx, Serron and Mark for those suggestions All the best Mick 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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