ECC Wheal Imogen / Rosevean Station: the expansion

[The Fatadder]

On the bench last night, refitting 37670 with its ends, now with the correct headcode boxes 

[The Fatadder]

Some spraying this afternoon

 

[The Fatadder]

A little more spraying before work this morning (and some transfers in 50031 T lunch)

 

annoyingly the curse on 37517 continues, with a lot of orange peel on the black (along with really bad lifting of paint along the masking edge for the cantrail stripe.  The orange peel has been sanded back with ultra fine wet & dry (as has the damaged areas on the cantrail).  It will get remarked and sprayed tomorrow (along with painting the stripe across the doors which was deliberately left for later.)

Hopefully this is the last paint issue on this model (I’m terrified about varnishing it…)

 

more successful was 50031 correctly fitted with NSE flashes at one end.

it still needs the final lengths of ohle stripe add and picking out the headcode box details before it can be reassembled 

[The Fatadder]

A bit of rework later this evening and it’s starting to look a lot better.  A coat of satin varnish to blend together the mat and gloss areas should do the job nicely 

 

this was followed by a start on adding the black band on the doors, and the hand written numbers on the ends.  I hopefully should be able to get the transfers on tomorrow (though I’m still paranoid about varnishing it)

 

I also spotted this particular loco needed one of the cutaways on the bottom edge of the body filling, which is awaiting the paint touching in

[The Fatadder]

A little more on 37517, which is now fully fitted with its transfers.  It will get some varnish tomorrow before potentially a few more refinements on the masking issues.  Looking at one of the photos the loadhaul logo was slightly askew, thankfully resetting the transfer it could be slightly adjusted 
 

Thankfully I had a full set of @railtec-modelstransfers left over from when I did 37710 on the old model. 

 

l have also ended up with another 37/0 from eBay, this time another split box loco with cowlings.   I am torn with this between doing 37350

in green small yellow end, or trying to swap the body for a 37/4 body (or the £50 needed to buy a Kernow one)

 

If I were to go down the 350 route I will somewhat regret buying the plates for a 403 rebuild at Showcase…

Edited June 24 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

A quick test fit on the chassis before varnishing and reassembly starts

 

 

[The Fatadder]

 

I wouldn’t say the loco is done seeing as it still needs weathering (though I will give it some time for the varnish to fully cure first of course).   It will also need a decoder fitting, but again im in no rush with no exhibitions on the horizon.

 

[The Fatadder]

With 37517 now complete attention has turned to the next project, I have a couple of projects lined up:  I am continuing to play with the windscreens on 37902, without the confidence that I will actually get them to a point where I am happy to continue.  In the mean time I continue to hope that I will find another damaged Kernow 37/4 shell to use as a basis.     I have the doner model for 37350 which will need the cantrail grills modifying prior to repainting,   This is an extract from a flickr photo showing whats needed, this is a very fine (thin) detail, thickness wise it looks very comparable to a boiler band on a steam loco which got me thinking why not use the same approach. Add the raised part with tape and then add Archer's rivet transfers for the rivet detail.  It is going to take a lot longer than I had planned but I think will be worth it.  I have a scrap 37 body that I will do a test on and take it from there. 

 

The other project I have coming is another Hattons Class 66, I had given a fair bit of thought toward buying an Accurascale 66001 in the end I decided to pass on it partly due to not justifying spending £170 on a loco that wouldnt get that much use and partly because I really dont like the lift off roof section.

Since then I've been looking at cheap Hattons models on ebay and this week seem to have ended up with a cheap sound loco with a couple of faults and a very cheap model with a fairly poor respray (which i have got for a bargain £46!)  The plan is to fix up the issues on the sound one, remove the decoder and sell non sound fitted.  The other will get stripped and fully resprayed as 66002 (along with the appropriate modifications)

 

Finally there are a handful of bits to sell that need some minor repairs to get ready, including 50001, 50007, the Transrail 60, last gen tooling 37611 in drs and 37510 in intercity, a set of 2022 37 noses, a Loadhaul 37/7 body with no ends and a stripped centre box 37/0 body with no ends and finally a dcc fitted / independent lights Virgin Voyager.

[The Fatadder]

the basis of the new cantrail details, this will need to be sealed before adding the rivet detail.  
 

I didn’t realise you could just remove the glazing from the headcode boxes so removed the whole front.  The plan is to strip these with IPA to replace the dominos with 350’s headcodes. A Replica high intensity headlight has also been fitted

 

50031 has now been reassembled, I just need to find the right 1990s version of the Hood crest to get it finished.  Then as with 37517 it will get weathered later in the summer 

[The Fatadder]

The first of my cheap Hattons 66s arrived today, not quite as described (with a handrail having fallen off one end, a motor wire disconnected, the entire drive shaft assembly removed from one end and one of the bodyside grills fallen out.   Nothing that wouldnt have stopped me paying the low price for the loco.  The ebay auction mentioned an issue with the lighting at one end.  My gut feel was that this was just going to be the usual case that the previous owner had set the switches wrong, and a first inspection inside the model revealed that was at least partially the case.  However there were still no tail lights at either end (and only headlights at one end).   testing with the multi meter showed that all the tails and all the headlights that were present were working, however two LED were missing at one end!  not mentioned in the listing, and seeing as the light guides were removed im pretty sure the seller was aware. 

So now I am trying to work out why on earth the tail lights dont work, not helped by not having a clue which wires on the lighting board are the common positive.  My hope is that when the sound 66 purchase arrives tomorrow I can use its wiring as a guide to fix this one.  (although that also has a lighting issue which is now a little more of a concern than when I purchased.)  Worst comes to the worst I will dig out the existing 66 and use that as a guide.

 

My hope is that I can solder on two new surface mount led to replace the missing ones, while I am assuming that there is likely an issue somewhere in the switches for the tail lights which could be resolved by simply shorting out the switch in the same way I did on a Bachmann 37 that had switch issues.

 

Aside from a bit of overspray on the gold the EWS red respray is actually pretty good with one exception where the paint is far too thick over a detail.  The transfers are also not quite straight enough so the body will be going in an IPA bath before getting a full respray.  Before I do that I will need to work out how I am dealing with the horn grills. It could really do with a new etch given how flush fitting the real thing was.  (Accurascale's attempt sticks out too much).  Many years ago I drew up a new horn grill etch for the original Hornby 67 if I recall correctly from 5thou stainless, I think something similar as a two part etch would be ideal (if fiddly to fit).  Alternativly a stop gap may be the Hattons grill and a frame from masking tape / archers rivets in a similar way to that on 37350.   Thankfully the modifications to the lower fairing should be easy 

 

Not overly looking forward to the respray, I did 66002 from the Bachmann model back in the day (respraying the gold as well as the red grills) and remember the masking was a real swine with a fair bit of rework.  At least then I could use the original as a guide, id just rather not take the body off it if I can help it...

[The Fatadder]

More work on 66002 this evening, the body is now fully dismantled ready for paint stripping.  I just could do with finding a big enough vessel in which to put it in while the ipa does its job. 

 

the bulk of tonight’s work has been focused around the buffer beams.  Opening out the draw box to get a bit more depth, adding the slot below it, the holes either side and finally repositioning the lashing points 

 

the top one will need more work with wet and dry to prep for paint (buffers won’t be refitted until after painting) 

 

next up fixing the axle boxes…

[The Fatadder]

onto the bogies, and more damage that was unexpected.  One bogie has a single crack on the frame, the other one crack at one end and the whole cross piece broken off at the other.  Usually not an issue, but with the need for accuracy on the rotating axle boxes it’s a bigger deal.  
 

My current thinking is to clean up the parts (including the usual fix to rectify Hattons tooling error with the springs) then reassemble including fitting the axle boxes.  With the axle boxes holding it all together the end locating parts can be glued in place.   I’m also tempted to add screws to hold the frame to the bogie in the same way I’ve used on Bachmann locks

[The Fatadder]

A little work on the bogies over lunch,

first up the standard repair to remove Hattons mis-moulded left hand inner frame.  A simple case of cutting the excess spring away with  a sharp scalpel and then cleaning up with needle files.

 

Then it was onto the bogie frames.  The inner end had a crack across one side of the keeper plate clip which could be easily glued 

However the outer end of both bogies completely broken away from the inner keeper plate (as well as separate from each other). I’ve not found an effective way of fixing this, however it seems the extra slop In the side frames allows the frame to flex more around the axle boxes.  The proof will be in the proper testing later on 

 

the bodyshell is now soaking in IPA, I can only soak half the body at once so this will take a while

 

[The Fatadder]

 

the body for 66002 is now fully stripped, and it’s now ready for priming.  Still not looking forward to painting it!   Should hopefully get the FAA sprayed into ews red while I’m at it

 

One ends lights have had the wires reconnected but still no tail lights working.  My suspicion is that the issue has something to do with the blanking plug as the wire from tail light to switch to 21pin appears to be good.

 

 

[The Fatadder]

A little more investigation into the lighting issues, I’ve been trying every 21pin plug I can find one of which ended up lighting both the head and tail lights in one direction (and nothing in the other) which I think confirms the issue is as a result of an issue with the blanking plug. 
 

Shouldn’t be difficult, just replace with the one from my existing 66.   Only I can’t find it….  And the sound 66 that arrived today doesn’t include a spare blanking plug… I have a damaged plug with 4 diodes out of something else (the actual socket is broken) so I’m thinking I will have to unsolder these and refit them.   (Naturally I appear to have found every other 21 pin blanking plug I’ve ever used bar the one I actually want!)
 

All of which is only an issue because of the sound 66207 that arrived today.  Bought a couple of days before I got the spares/repair 66, the plan was always that should I get the other one this would be fixed (a broken wire on the lights and a missing axle box) before selling the loco and keeping the sound chip. Can’t really do that with with a non working blanking plate!  
 

I think possibly there’s an issue with all 4 diodes  Checking with a multimeter d 1 and 2 have no connection in either direction, while d3/4 are live in both directions 

Edited July 4 by The Fatadder

[chuffinghell]

9 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

 

the body for 66002 is now fully stripped, and it’s now ready for priming. 

I often wonder what the safest way of stripping the paint from a plastic loco body was.

 

Anything to be aware of if using IPA to do this

 

Chris

[The Fatadder]

8 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

I often wonder what the safest way of stripping the paint from a plastic loco body was.

 

Anything to be aware of if using IPA to do this

 

Chris

Nothing major, it’s safe on windows as well (and I find it softens the glue so you can remove without damage)

 

warming the ipa also helps speed it up (I use a hot water bath or put it in the airing cupboard 

[The Fatadder]

A little more Class 66 work today, Ive managed to find my original loco's blanking plate and fit to the chassis.  Along side this I have also received the new lighting board that was kindly supplied by adb968008 and fitted it to the chassis, with this 66002 is fully working.   I have also turned attention to the horn grills, stripping off the original paint and test fitting.  My hope had been that I could modify the Hattons part to get the flush original version.  The grill is find but I cant work out how I will do the frame (other than drawing up an etch), so I guess I will need to get on with that next week and just leave the part off until I have it sorted.  

 

I now have the SPROG set up with the new laptop so Ive been testing the sound 66 very impressive (even if it does sound like a 66!)  This means that I now have enough sound locos to run all of the main classes for freight on the layout (I guess I should get a sound chip for either the 153 or 150 eventually).  Thinking I probably ought to do a bit of body swapping to move the sound chassis that is under 510 into one of the Cornish locos (probably 674)

 

This was followed by finally programming 59103, this is fitted with the Imperium 3 chip I had bought for the Cavalex 56, I have set it up with the CV settings recommended by Dapol but I cant get the yard mode to work.   There is also a big issue with the marker lights with Dapol having for some reason wired it so both light up in day and night mode (whereas it should just be the opposite marker to the headlight.)   I need to find a solution to get it working properly. 

 

I have also been adding a missing detail to 37517 which now has the fire control panels fitted under the bodyside grills 

Edited July 5 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

first bit of cad in a long time, new horn grill for 66002 to the original style.  2 part etch intended for 0.5mm stainless

[The Fatadder]

Last night the sound bits from 66207 were transplanted into 002’s chassis.   207 having been purchased from eBay with the usual missing axle boxes and a non working lights at one end a few days before I got what is becoming 002.   After a very easy repair, it’s now working perfectly (without its sound) and is ready for a one way trip to the classifieds.  2 66s are probably too many, 3 is far too many

While 002’s chassis was on the bench it has been weathered based on some 1999 photos.  I’ve found a nice photo of 002 running with a Mainline triple grey 60 on the clay, another possible future Cavalex renumbering project maybe….  Loadhaul triple grey will be the first though…

The 66 bodyshell has had some minor rework dealing with paint imperfections and is awaiting a second dusting of primer.  The modified fairings, along with the grills are also pending priming (the grills won’t be refitted until I’ve sprayed and masked the gold stripe). Which won’t be until after holiday.

 

so with all of that done this evening attention will return to 37350 and adding rivet detail to the cantrail grill area along with finishing off the noses.  I need to try and work out a way to remove the lighting boards to allow for adding extra led for the high intensity without removing the noses…

Speaking of the 37, I’m a little torn as to the next step on this. If I hadn’t already modified the lighting boards I’d swap the bodies over to have 674 on this chassis and 350 on a last gen chassis.  Mostly because the lighting board on 350 lacks the components to control the headlight 

 

I’ve been debating buying a Kernow body to do 902 on my final spare last gen chassis which would give me the lighting boards needed for the 674 swap….  For now though it doesn’t stop the prep for 350’s respray

Edited July 10 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

a little more from last night, with new LEDs fitted to the Bachmann circuit boards.  The Bachmann split box lighting board does not have provision for an offset headlight so electrical tape has been used to hold it in the right position. 
 

the boards were then fitted to the noses and refitted to the bodies.  The joint between nose and body was then given a coat of filler.

 

[The Fatadder]

A bit of spraying today, the roof of 37350 in the wrong grey, the ews gold on 66002 and the roof blue on 92009.

 

I need to double check what the right shade is before respraying the roof on the 37.  The tin of Phoenix roof grey looks more like a slightly dark rail grey than a roof grey.   Would be interested to know what the right shade of grey is for 37350

After it’s 1998 repaint into green.

 

the 66 needs a little work, I roughly masked the ends off rather than accurately masking the yellow panel.  I don’t want any risk of a step along the masking line, so the plan is to give it a light sand with 1000 grit wet and dry before spraying the red later in the week.

 

 

final the 92, I’ve used Railmatch DRS blue which is a good match on the Accurascale blue roof.    The blue currently extends too far down the cab roof (again minimising masking).  The plan is to mask it up and then spray a quick coat of primer over the bits where the yellow extends to the cab roof, before spraying the yellow.   Before I do any more on this I will replace the removed equipment boxes (and print / paint the replacement box that should really have been fitted before I sprayed the roof!  Hopefully there’s enough paint left to paint it…)

[The Fatadder]

A bit more painting today, the Accurascale 92 has finally dried so was able to mask and spray the next colour.  My thinking is the yellow will be easier to mask the outline than mask the panel so I’ve sprayed the Rail Grey.  
The plan is to next mask and spray the flint grey band (so I can re do the roof on 37350 while I’m at it)   This will be followed by a dusting of white primer over the end and the warning yellow, before finally spraying the black.

 

Next up 66002, I had issues with the paint.  Once again a tin not lasting long before going off, I thought I had enough to finish the job but it started clogging the airbrush.  The side has mostly come out ok, but will need remasking and a new top coat adding (along with some rework where the masking on the yellow panel failed.). I’ve added new paint to my next Rainbow order but there will be a slight while I wait for the EFE crane to hit the shelves to save on postage!

there wasn’t remotely enough paint to do the FAAs which will also go ews red once the new paint arrives.  

[The Fatadder]

A bit more painting on the Accurascale 92 and Bachmann 37350. 
 

the 92 will be getting the yellow sprayed tomorrow after another dusting of primer which will of course include the area above the roofs (I wanted to spray the blue on white and it was easier to spray the whole thing than mask off). 
I have to say I think the loco looks a lot better with a fully blue roof.

 

the next job will be repriming and spraying the yellow (with all the fun masking it entails

ive redone the roof on 37350 hopefully it’s the right colour now...

Once dry it’s back to the workbench to refit the ends, fill the gaps before spraying green later in the week.  I’m a little torn with this as to whether to spray the frost grills on or off model (I need to order them still…)

 

[The Fatadder]

Sprayed the yellow ends this evening

 

alas on one side I had issues with the masking taking off the paint (it hadn’t bonded at all to the layer below) so this will need cutting back with wet&dry and respraying.  Will be giving it a couple of days to harden first so hopefully won’t loose any more.   Thinking it would be best to spray the black first in case I loose any more yellow with the masking for it 

 

the grey was scratched with a finger nail

when removing the tape. And will also need touching up (all be it an easier colour to fix than the yellow)

 

best get some Railtec transfers ordered (and Shawplan ‘polo mints’ ordered to finish it off as well)