Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Probably not the best thread to ask this on, but what clear coat would you more experienced modellers recommend for Fox Transfers’ decals? I finally have the cash to order decals for the 1MT and other projects, but I don’t want them flaking off when they’re fitted, I’m primarily using Tamiya paints now so I don’t know if a Tamiya clear coat will damage the Fox decals or not.

 

Edit: Anything requiring an airbrush is off the table, as I don’t own one unfortunately.

Edited September 9 by Hacksworth_Sidings

[SR71]

I have used railmatch without issue recently as well as army painter.

[GMKAT7]

Good afternoon Hacksworth,

 

I have used Revell Aqua Gloss and Matt varnish over Fox Transfers with no problems, as per the photo of the LBSC wagon attached.

 

 I should state that this was over Aqua base colours.

 

Cheers, Nigel.

Edited September 9 by GMKAT7
Auto text added too many words!

[TinTracks]

Howdo @Hacksworth_Sidings

Since returning to the hobby 4 years ago I've become a big fan of Vallejo acrylic paints and varnish.  They seem to level very well and are forgiving of my poor painting ability as regards levelling.Available from Boyes etc for about £2.50 per 17ml.

They come in those small dropper type bottles. The 'nozzle'' bit will pop off so you can attach a cheapo steel spatula in the chuck of a mini drill and stir the pants off it. It thins well with a few drops of tap water, added to taste.

 Over any acrylic paints I use  Vallejo 70.510 gloss, then apply transfers. In my case I use Fox, HMRS Pressfix or , hushed voice, Modelmaster.

 I then brush paint over the transfers with either  Vallejo 70.520 satin or 70.522 matt.

 I leave 24/48 hours between each process. On plastic models I use various rattle can undercoats.

 When using enamel paints I undercoat with an etch rattle can product from Autotek. After applying the colour (Humbrol, Phoenix or whatever ) I gloss with a bottle of Humbrol enamel that must  be all of 10 years old, thinned to taste. After applying transfers, as above, I use Humbrol Satin or Matt enamel varnish. Again I leave at least 24 hrs between each process.

  I'm not for a minute suggesting that this is ''The Way'' to do it, just saying what works for me. I've, so far, not experienced any problems.

 Hope this helps

 Cheers, Rich 

 

[MrWolf]

1 hour ago, TinTracks said:

Howdo @Hacksworth_Sidings

Since returning to the hobby 4 years ago I've become a big fan of Vallejo acrylic paints and varnish.  They seem to level very well and are forgiving of my poor painting ability as regards levelling.Available from Boyes etc for about £2.50 per 17ml.

They come in those small dropper type bottles. The 'nozzle'' bit will pop off so you can attach a cheapo steel spatula in the chuck of a mini drill and stir the pants off it. It thins well with a few drops of tap water, added to taste.

 Over any acrylic paints I use  Vallejo 70.510 gloss, then apply transfers. In my case I use Fox, HMRS Pressfix or , hushed voice, Modelmaster.

 I then brush paint over the transfers with either  Vallejo 70.520 satin or 70.522 matt.

 I leave 24/48 hours between each process. On plastic models I use various rattle can undercoats.

 When using enamel paints I undercoat with an etch rattle can product from Autotek. After applying the colour (Humbrol, Phoenix or whatever ) I gloss with a bottle of Humbrol enamel that must  be all of 10 years old, thinned to taste. After applying transfers, as above, I use Humbrol Satin or Matt enamel varnish. Again I leave at least 24 hrs between each process.

  I'm not for a minute suggesting that this is ''The Way'' to do it, just saying what works for me. I've, so far, not experienced any problems.

 Hope this helps

 Cheers, Rich 

 

 

That's what I've been doing with transfers for years too. It may well not be the best way, but it works for me.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

Just wanted to check is all, thanks for the advice.

 

I picked up a pot of Tamiya X-22 “Clear” the other week on a trip to my local hobby shop, amongst other Tamiya paints, trialled brush painting it on a body I’ve been working on for a little while and brushing it on gave a good gloss finish, so I’ll probably trial some decals either on that or some scrap plasticard before I go ahead with decalling the 1MT and others.

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

My decals arrived the other day, so I trialled them today, left college early after the power went out so I had extra time to trial them.

 

 

This body’s just some junky old spare a friend gave me, coated once with Tamiya X-22 “Clear”, then decalled, before given another coat, a success!

 

 

Since that went so well, I went and started decalling another project I’ve had in the works, just done the one side of the tender for now, I’ll make a thread on it once it’s done (which is very close now that the final major piece is on its way) as it’s not really a Pugbash, Nelliebosh, etc, more mainline focused…

[Emery Hill Station]

1 hour ago, Hacksworth_Sidings said:

 

 

Since that went so well, I went and started decalling another project I’ve had in the works, just done the one side of the tender for now, I’ll make a thread on it once it’s done (which is very close now that the final major piece is on its way) as it’s not really a Pugbash, Nelliebosh, etc, more mainline focused…

How hard was the lining? Im doing a 3d printed Tyneside Electric and I'm dreading doing the lining on it lol

[Hacksworth_Sidings]

6 hours ago, Emery Hill Station said:

How hard was the lining? Im doing a 3d printed Tyneside Electric and I'm dreading doing the lining on it lol

It wasn’t actually that hard, soak the decals in warm water that’s been mixed with a little bit of dish soap (helps to aid flexibility), prod into place with a toothpick or cocktail stick, and roll the water out from beneath with a cotton bud to help them stick and stop them sliding about before you add the top coat, it’s easy, but time consuming.

[SR71]

For lining I can also recommend pressfix sheets. You get to do all the positioning dry so you can actually measure them to ensure an even gap to the running plate etc. before committing. You also get so many in a sheet that even if you get it wrong you can just cut another and try again.

 

This was lined entirely with pressfix.

 

[SteveyDee68]

2 hours ago, SR71 said:

This was lined entirely with pressfix.

 

Totally different question and very OT* but…

 

Did you fit the “locking bar” across the rolling road saddles, or was that how they came?

 

If it was a DIY job, how did you do it? I’ve got four similar saddles and hadn’t thought of that, but seeing your photo now it immediately makes sense!

 

Cheers

Steve S

 

* Unless you can count a “saddle bash” as a “pug bash”? 

[SR71]

@SteveyDee68  They came with the bars. They work well as I have tried the same rollers without. You do need to make sure the engine is properly settled in running forward and back before tightening them up but once running they stop any creeping.