MG 7305 Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 Maybe it's just me, but has anyone had issues with the body being a lot looser with the valence's on? Without them I can lift the model by the body, without the chassis just seems to fall out I agree. In fact I must be in a minority of one when my overall impression of the model, while a fantastic moulding etc, seems to have been designed around the detachable valences. They have gaps between them and between the valances and the main body, neither feature being prototypical. When fitted, some keep dropping out. My interim solution is to use double sided sticky tape and fix them to the body. Cut off the little fixing lugs from the chassis (these are plastic) and shave the standoffs in the body shell slightly. The result is an aligned set of valences as close to the body shell as possible which will stay put (and you can leave one out if you like) and a body shell which sits lower on the chassis. The door kick plate section of the body shell holds it all together. In the long term I will be gluing the valences on the body, filling the gaps and repainting the whole shooting match (6326) with railmatch blue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) Thinking of things falling out or off I have lost one of the windscreen wipers It seems to have dropped out rather than knocked off as there is a neat hole left in the body where it was attached, which seems to have disappeared it the realms of my model railway I presume never to be seen again. I am waiting for a reply from Dapol to an email i sent a couple of weeks before Christmas to see if it's possible to get spares. Edited January 2, 2012 by westerner Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Endacott Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) I don't like the valances either. I spent ages trying to get them aligned with the body and they don't stay put. I will also have to look at another means of fixing them before I can commit a £125 loco to exhibition service. Geoff Endacott Edited January 2, 2012 by Geoff Endacott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 The issue of the valances is that they sit too high and therefore stop the body pushing all the way onto the chassis properly - and stop the body clips engaging with the chassis properly. I elongated the holes in the valances so they would sit lower down - This in turn then makes the body fit back on properly. Tfn Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Endacott Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) So it should be possible for Dapol to manufacture replacement valances with repositioned holes to cure the problem. However, on on of my examples the body didn't fit properly even without the valences in place. Geoff Endacott Edited January 2, 2012 by Geoff Endacott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I'm now gonna throw some treacle into the finely tuned whirrings of this with another observation, one I forgot to mention last night. I have got one valence in situ (one of the red dot ones) and this, coupled MG7305's comment about the kick plates holding the body in place has me thinking it's the valences directly adjacent to the drivers doors that are the problem. I will experiment and report back. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Mission failed, just seems random which valences cause the problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted January 4, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2012 Before I start tinkering with mine, I've no plans to depict missing valences on my model, so can someone kindly tell me this - if I glue or otherwise permanently fix the valences in position, will this affect the 'sit' of the body on the chassis (assuming any lugs or mouldings that get in the way are removed as part of this process). What I had in mind was using Mek or similar, with some 10 thou plasticard as a backing. Thanks. Edit - also - to just fit the valences without glueing etc. - does one have to remove the body from the chassis at all? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Endacott Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 ...to just fit the valences without glueing etc. - does one have to remove the body from the chassis at all? No, but it helps you to align them properly if you do. Geoff Endacott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark alden Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 And didnt the 43s have the best names? Lets roll them out - Panther... Superb ....Swift ..... and of course for Kirk Douglas fans ..... Viking. Got to be best sellers! And plenty of livery variations to chose from - Late survivor in MSYP D839 Ramilles Late repaint in to MFYP D838 Rapid Late survivor in GSYP D845 Sprightly - also with panel variations and white cab roof Early BFYP with brown skirts D864 Zambesi Early BFYP with arrows both cab D843 Steadfast Intermediate BFYP with small arrows over nameplate D847 Strongbow Late BFYP - take your pick ! And wasnt there a bizarre green variant with the carriage roundel rather than the usual totem? Come on Dave - you know you want to..... Phil D839 went BFY in May 1970 whilst D861 worked LD from LA to SDN in MSYP on 2nd Jan 1971 to go to Works for overhaul and repaint. D845 was Green until December 1969 and came out in BFY on 20/02/1970. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DapolDave Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 RED DWARF ALERT!! RED DWARF ALERT!! Ok your all thinking has Dave lost what little marbles he had left? Not at all the 'Lister' (get it?) has landed, and will be going out to stockists today. For those non Dwarf fans, D1000c class 22 numbered D6320 in green with small yellow warning panel has arrived and is starting to be shipped today. cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
10800 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Excellent, I think that's my one 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 5, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) And mine! Cheers Dave Edited January 5, 2012 by Phil Bullock Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
royaloak Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) RED DWARF ALERT!! RED DWARF ALERT!! Dave I didnt know one was named smeghead! Edited January 5, 2012 by royaloak Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D605Eagle Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) RED DWARF ALERT!! RED DWARF ALERT!! Ok your all thinking has Dave lost what little marbles he had left? Not at all the 'Lister' (get it?) has landed, and will be going out to stockists today. For those non Dwarf fans, D1000c class 22 numbered D6320 in green with small yellow warning panel has arrived and is starting to be shipped today. cheers Dave Awww smeg! I must got on to me supplier and get me order changed lickerty split. Is it unnamed Dave? Edited January 6, 2012 by D605Eagle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whistler Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I feel the blue of the 22 isn't correct and looks completely out of place compared to other diesels. Does anyone else see this ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennine MC Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I feel the blue of the 22 isn't correct and looks completely out of place compared to other diesels. Does anyone else see this ? Already plenty of opinion, only one page back... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1059 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I feel the blue of the 22 isn't correct and looks completely out of place compared to other diesels. Does anyone else see this ? BR blue is such a subjective colour - the 'correct' shade varies from person to person. The BR blue I remember from the 70's had a distinct green tinge to it. Early batches in the 60's faded very quickly with the sun and the chemicals in automated washing plants and even when ex-works seems to have varied. Add on to that the problems introduced by colour variations between different film stock of the period (eg Kodachrome II and Agfa CT18) and the arguments will run forever. Phoenix Precision list 2 shades of BR blue - 1966-1985 and post 1985. The pre 85 shade has the green tinge to my eyes, the post 85 shade is slightly darker and is more 'blue' without the green tinge. The 22's were usually so filthy that exact shade is going to be very difficult to establish unless ex-works STEVE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted January 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2012 I've just had a look at my tiny sample of real WR BR blue from that period (on the edge of an NBL 'Warship' worksplate) and it does indeed have a greenish tinge at some angles - but then it was applied over the top of the previous green which could account for the tinge to some extent perhaps? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1059 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) I've just had a look at my tiny sample of real WR BR blue from that period (on the edge of an NBL 'Warship' worksplate) and it does indeed have a greenish tinge at some angles - but then it was applied over the top of the previous green which could account for the tinge to some extent perhaps? This is the colour I remember http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream and yet, from just over 18 months earlier, in autumn sunshine this time and on Kodak print film as opposed to Agfa transparencies, this looks much more blue http://www.railpictu...198464&nseq=207 STEVE Edited January 6, 2012 by D1059 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted January 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2012 This is the colour I remember http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream and yet, from just over 18 months earlier, in autumn sunshine this time and on Kodak print film as opposed to Agfa transparencies, this looks much more blue http://www.railpictu...198464&nseq=207 STEVE The real thing doesn't quite match any of those but I'm looking at it in different lighting conditions and from a different, and closer, viewing angle. But all area lot nearer what i remember than Dapol's blue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 This is the colour I remember... Differences between the original film makes/types have already been mentioned, but do bear in mind that monitor screens and software setup can make as much, if not more difference. I looked at the three images on my PC screen and my initial thought was that you were all mad because the first two photos looked nothing like I remember. I then looked at them on my Mac and the colours were much closer to my memory. By default, Mac and PC screens are calibrated quite differently, and photo colours will often appear quite different. My PC has a non-standard setup that suits me for particular tasks but the relative blue and green levels do not suit viewing these photos.. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor H Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) http://www.rmweb.co....__fromsearch__1 Edited March 16, 2012 by Trevor H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted January 8, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2012 With a bit of subtle weathering though, I think it could make a convincing model. But if your looking for something clean, or aren't partial to weathering your stock, it would be harder to convince next to other models I was wondering whether the old T-Cut routine would be effective in giving it a bit of a sheen, that would then form the basis for weathering....? Who is going to be brave enough?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 I was wondering whether the old T-Cut routine would be effective in giving it a bit of a sheen, that would then form the basis for weathering....? Who is going to be brave enough?! Not sure if some of the finer moulding detail would survive - Thats the thing , the bodyshell has some lovely delicate detail on it - but its lost in the matt paint finish anyways enough moaning - heres my effort at some weathering 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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