RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted December 17, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2016 A long brake in my activities - mainly family related - but now I have a little helper for my overhead line build. I am currently in Vienna - well - family again And I couldn't resist visiting Kleinbahn to purchase a little permanent way set. And there is my little helper 20161217_102242 It is the OBB x534.80, a diesel driven platform car for set-up and maintenance on ohl lines. The pantograph on this car is just for measurement and earthing reasons. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alcanman Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 What a charming little vehicle. I came across this one at Seefeld in Tirol in 1989. Mal 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted December 17, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2016 Thanks for the picture, I know now that I need more earthing poles and a acetylene bottle to make it more realistic... The one from Kleinbahn is for sure not top of the top - but with a little bit of brass wire and weathering powder I will try to upgrade it. Also it needs lights and a decoder to be allowed to run on Donnersbachkogel... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted December 27, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2016 (edited) Now I have the little helper and Christmas is over there is no excuse - I have to proceed. As the 0.5mm wires are quite bendy the whole thing needs to be tensioned. And to do this in stile I need wire tensioners. OK, they will not really work but they look good. I thought if I ever do a large layout I will make drawings and let them be etched. But as I need something like 6 or 8 on Donnersbachkogel I rather make them scratchbuildt. How? first make the outer ring on the lathe - and drill six holes into it for the spokes. Drilling the holes for the spokes 20161226_152436 Outer rings ready milled and parted from the brass tube. 20161226_172109 Now the hub 20161226_192649 If you think it is not totally precise - the hub has a diameter of 4mm and the ring has an inner diameter of 9mm.... I made myself a quick wooden jig for soldering - and here we have the result. 20161226_194737 To fix this to the masts I should use an L profile - but faster is using a wire. Wire is bent - using another jig of course. 20161227_212945 The wire clamps will go into either L or U profiles and will be fixed to the mast. But today I ruined 2 L profiles by drilling into the wrong position so I call it a day and proceed tomorrow. Edited December 27, 2016 by Vecchio 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Claude_Dreyfus Posted December 27, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2016 This is very impressive work. I am really enjoying seeing how you are going about this catenary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted December 28, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 28, 2016 Nice and fresh this morning (-5degC) - took me 30 min to bring my workshop to 18 degrees. I decided to use U-profiles to fix the tension wheel to the masts. DSC04189 And a quick trial on the mast itself DSC04190 Now a coffee break is deserved... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted December 29, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 29, 2016 First one almost complete and in position on a mast. 20161228_221615 20161228_221410 The only thing missing now is the extra suspension these masts have - in form of a steel rod going to an extra little concrete foundation. And of course some colour has to be applied... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanks522 Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Hi Vecchio, The OHLE your constructing is superb! Looking forward to seeing the layout develop. Graham. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted December 29, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 29, 2016 thanks - I am not the fastest and I am also not happy with the current mimic board. It is too crammed to solder any additional wires in. So when I have finished the OHL on this board I will rebuild the mimic board. I am really looking forward to do the scenery- but this may be a long way away.... Vecchio 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
duff man Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Hi. Glad to see you are making progress. The tensioners are just a work of art, I am sure this whole layout will raise the bench mark for catenary. you are to be congratulated. Craig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted January 2, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2017 A bit further with the tensioners - 2 are at their final position... DSC04210 DSC04207 . DSC04208 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Just read through your thread and have to say what great work and attention to detail especially your hand built OHL - as others have said it's a work of art. Keep up the good work - I'll be following with keen interest. Cheers .. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan88 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Interesting read and truly excellent OHLE. Always nice to see Austrian layouts from my heavily biased position of being half-Austrian and a big Austrian rail fan. Are the light signals from Alphamodell, Memoba or Mobasi? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted February 26, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 26, 2017 Now I got the answer - half Austrian. The light signals are from Krois Modell. He has the advantage that he (or whoever makes them for him) can customise them. Means you can order the combination of lights you want and you get exactly that. On my last layout I had Alphamodell signals, have to say also the Alphamodel ones are quite realistic and the price was reasonable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted February 26, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2017 Beautiful work on the tensioner The 'functional' catenary on my RhB layout fooled most people until Barrie Kelsall turned up at a show, but he was nice about it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted February 26, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 26, 2017 Thanks Paul. I would like to build the same speed as you do - unfortunately too many other things to do.... Got a wiring job at the club as well - a 4 module 7mm layout. Not that big but I have to rip out all the track as people before me did a quick job. Means drop wires too visible, frog wires no put through the baseboard... But in 2019 our club has 50th anniversary - so my target is to be ready with Donnersbachkogel in February 2019.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirley Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Excellent modelling skills in this thread Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted July 11, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) Small sign of life after a long break. The layout is more or less where it was in February, I did a lot of other things in the meantime. Now I was looking a bit into the rolling stock for Donnersbachkogel. Especially into the H0e part. One of the locos I would like to use is a Roco Diesel shunter. These are about 60£ new, and with a bit of luck there is something on the internet for half the price. Of course I want to have this running at DCC, there is not too much space in the tiny loco. Here is a photo from the internet how this little engine looks. Roco Diesel On the front there is a lens but no light, on the back there is not even a lens but a painted on light. So something to improve. I use a Zimo MX621 for this loco and to save space I shorten the leads for the lights and put SMD resistors on them. These resistors are glued on the decoder with hotmelt glue. 20170711_170244 I use tiny SMD leds for the lights, and the missing lens I make on the lathe from a piece of scrap plastic. Below see how I turn the lens. 20170711_163719 And now the rear light is glued into position using a drop of superglue and some activator spray. The led is 0.8mm wide! 20170711_165349 Putting all together and closing the loco - have a look from the rear. Of course the decoder is a little bit visible, but normally the people will look at it from above, from there it is invisible. 20170711_171706 Quick function test. 20170711_171537 All working, so some cosmetics. First a driver. Also the red clips are hidden under some green Humbroll paint. 20170711_175724 His tools got a bit of paint and the loco is ready for use. What is missing is some weathering. It is too clean. 20170711_175737 I am happy with that little upgrade, the next one will be a steam H0e loco. Edited July 11, 2017 by Vecchio 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan88 Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 If you keep your eyes peeled you can pick up a Liliput StLB VL6 diesel shunter for around £50, these are very nicely detailed models with LED lighting and a 6 pin socket off the shelf. Watching the tiny con rods and counter balances moving around adds a lot of visual appeal to these titchy logos. I have several Liliput U class tank locos surplus if that fits the bill for a steam engine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted September 25, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2017 So what is going on at Donnersbachkogel? Not much as I was working on Frimingham (club 0 scale layout of Milton Keynes Model Railway Society ) But I put track on the second return loop, unfortunately I had to go down to ROCO R2 - radius 358mm. This excludes models like my BBO 16 museum edition as it will not make it around the bends. Stock on boogies doesn't have a problem with this radius, so all my OBB electric locos will make it. 20170925_205307 I also decided to make a new mimic panel as the first one was too crowded. It was almost impossible to solder all the necessary connections. Here is the new one - a little bit stretched: 20170904_213622 And yes, I forgot one of the industrial sidings. So back to the cad and another print of Staples.... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 18, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2017 (edited) After a few less satisfying attempts and a few more prints... DSC04594 ... finally an acceptable one. Now with the switches in place and the holes for the LEDs drilled. DSC04595 Edited November 18, 2017 by Vecchio 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Looking good, very neat work. I made a panel like it once on a previous layout, it was before LEDs became widely used so I used grain of wheat bulbs - it wasn't long before the smell of melting plastic became over powering as the bulbs heated up and began to melt the laminate I'd covered the diagramme with - doh ... Cheers ... Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 26, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 26, 2017 (edited) Thanks Alan, I try my best, problem is the time. Was on business trips the whole last week, followed by a Saturday at Warley, and Monday and Tuesday I will be abroad again. Doesn't leave too much time for the hobby... On the 11th of July I showed the upgrade of the H0e Diesel - and I wrote "I am happy with that little upgrade, the next one will be a steam H0e loco." Some time passed, so I should do something... Here we have the victim, a Roco tender steam locomotive from a start set, bought relatively cheap on e-bay. DSC_0649 I have modified the loco already, originally it comes with a Kuehn 6-pin decoder which is sticking in its socket and is visible across the cab... As it is a steam loco it would be nice to have sound. So I invested into a Zimo MX648 which is small enough to hide easily in the tender. This is why you see cables between loco and tender. And the cab is free now, so if I find a matching crew I will populate it. See here the speaker and below the decoder in the tender. I removed the weight of the tender, which leaves the bottom of the tender with two large apertures, perfect for the sound. DSC_0664 There is a soundfile for a small 2-cylinder engine on the chip, so it matches the loco quite well. Now what is missing? yes - working headlights. Lets have a look of what is currently there. DSC_0655 So you can see they are free standing, they have a lens and there is some white paint behind the lens. See them from a different angle. DSC_0656 The nice thing is that these lamps are removable. DSC_0657 I drilled through from the back and pushed the lens out. It showed that the white paint is on the lens only. DSC_0659 See here the Lamps, one from the front, one from the back, with a hole for the future LED light, drill diameter 1.9mm. DSC_0662 I painted the inside of the lamp white, so they look more or less like before. Here we have a test fit of the modified lamps. And yes, what is on the right hand side is the motor of this loco. I have taken it out as I look for space to hide the wires for the light. DSC_0668 That's it for the moment, will see if I can progress a bit further this evening. Edited November 26, 2017 by Vecchio 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 26, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 26, 2017 OK, just a little bit more. First the LEDs I will use. The problem with this lamps is that in full scale the driver would just have a coloured glass which he would put over the lamp in case he will push or drive a light engine. How to do that? There is a solution on the market - I found those in a German shop: DSC_0672 I will need 4 but I purchased of course 6 as I have some experience with SMD leds.... (They are very jumpy ) The whole I drilled before is approximately the diagonal of the led. I fixed them with a tiny bit of superglue and put a drop of 5 min epoxy over that. Finally a bit of flat black paint. DSC_0670 Now the wires are still not hidden - but minimum the footplate is clear of them. Short function test- first white: DSC_0673 and now red: DSC_0676 And finally a close up from behind: DSC_0680 I am happy so far, and that's it for this week. Continuation next weekend. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted December 3, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 3, 2017 I promised to give some update next weekend - here we are. I had some trouble as one of the led's gave up, and unfortunately the white colour. So the only thing I could do is replace them. This means scratch off the epoxy blob which was on the back of the led, and remove the led from the lamp. It worked without major problems, and I am happy I purchased more led's than needed. As I was not in a perfect mood I didn't take any photo of this repair. Now it was time to find a path for the wires. I went down the chassis and back then up to the little PCB board where normally the decoder is connected (6 pin NEM 651). Originally the pins for the light are free, so I used them to connect my lights to them. The plus pole (normally blue) I connected to the rail. This is the PCB with the NEM connector from below. The very thin wires are for the lights. DSC_0681 To make the wires between tender and loco less visible I cut all original wires off and used thin black insulated wires. DSC_0686 The next picture shows how the light wires are routed on the base of the loco. The orange stuff is bluetack, I tried to hide it a little with the paint. DSC_0687 The loco is now closed, and from the side you cannot see the wires. DSC_0688 I made a trial with the tender on it. First white DSC_0692 and then red. DSC_0691 And finally a little video on the test track (which is actually my programming track) Click on the photo to get to the video. 20171203_203739 That's it for today. Next step will be to prepare the rear lights in the same way as the front ones. But this will happen only on the next weekend. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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