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Professional sound fitting for Atlas Silver GP40-2


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I am just starting in US HO modelling and have an Atlas GP40-2 phase 2 which I would like professionally sound chipped. Can anyone recommend a dealer to do this please? I have searched RMweb abd drawn a blank. Apologies if I've missed it. Trevor

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Hi Shedman,

 

Can I ask why you feel the need to have this fitting done professionally?

 

The Atlas GP38 and GP40 models are some of the easier models to do - even for a first timer.

 

If you have a look at YouTube you will find some video to show how.

 

For general DCC Sound Fitting to US models I always refer people to this series...

 

 

Then follow up with Part 2 and 3.

 

Thanks

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Have a go!. I am the world's most incompetent modeller, and as I have got older my eyes and fingers dont work as well as they used to - and even I managed to fit an ESU Loksound to an Atlas GP40. I got it from Coastal DCC - no connection, just a happy customer

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OK. Can you explain how to get the shell off please? I'm blessed if I can see any fixings.Do I need to take the couplers off? Thanks for your input. Trevor

Yep, remove both of the coupler boxes and wiggle the body on the chassis to work it off. There are 4 tabs (two will be somewhere under the cab, two the end of the long hood) that hold the body and chassis together which you'll need to work out.

 

Try and hold the lower edge of the walkway whilst you do this rather than just the very top of the shell as body, cab and walkway are all separate parts on Atlas loco's and you ideally want them to come off the frame as one rather than in lots of pieces...

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The new Soundtrxx Econami sound decoder comes with 5 engine options, EMD 645 turbo is the one you want to configure. Sound is excellent and the for what is a modest price. ESU Loksound is also very good with the option of fitting a direct replacement for the existing Atlas circuit board http://www.esu.eu/en/products/loksound/loksound-select/ordering-information/

73708 for a GP40-2.

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OK. Can you explain how to get the shell off please? I'm blessed if I can see any fixings.Do I need to take the couplers off? Thanks for your input. Trevor

Hi Shedman,

 

You should have had an instruction sheet with the model and it included a picture of the loco viewed in component outline?

 

The screws that hold the couplers in place also keep the body on.

 

Remove these and then the couplings themselves.

 

This should enable you to remove the body.

 

Set the couplers, screws and body aside for now.

 

If this is an Atlas Silver and it is as sold then you should be able to see where the speaker they use the Atlas Gold with Sound models is fitted.

 

Depending on your chosen decoder - you have choices to make!

 

If you have bought a sound decoder that simply replaces the one as fitted by Atlas - follow the instructions that came with it.

 

If it is this type then it's simply a case of attaching the wires to it in exactly the same place they came off on the Atlas circuit board.

 

If it's not a straight replacement - you have to decide where to house it and still be able to fir the body!

 

Any other help - ask on here.

 

From the other names that have posted at least 3 of us have done one or other (or both) of these methods ourselves.

 

Thanks

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I have some sympathy for you Trevor. DCC sound installation in US diesels is not for everyone, including myself.

 

To answer your OP -  why not try Coastal DCC. They seem to be well regarded and their prices are reasonable  http://www.coastaldcc.co.uk/services/

 

Or, do what I do - buy locos with factory fitted sound. Recent releases from Atlas are fitted with ESU Loksound and the sound and motor control are superb.

 

 

Mal

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Hi Alcanman. Can I say how much I have enjoyed and learned from your videos. Fantastic. I have bought a few sound fitted, but I wanted a CSX GP40 in Bright Future and could only find an Atlas Silver. I will try Coastal DCC as you suggest Thanks.

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I think this is one of the things that puts many off DCC. Some models are a nightmare to chip (for example, removing and then refitting the body of the Bachmann 4CEP or the re-tooled Heljan 33 was nerve wracking when I did mine) and there really is no reason why there shouldn’t be some sort of easy chip arrangement. Some US models do have very simple arrangements, as does the Bachmann Class 350 Desiro but some are terrible. Yes, I know some will say modellers should be able to do this, but I can actually understand why some find it offputting. People buy RTR models, not RTR models which they have to take apart and worry about damaging as a result of the force required to get the body off (after they’ve figured out how to do it). I must admit I’ve had a few models (another really bad one was an Atlas NYS&W Dash 8-40B) where I’ve been really questioning whether I should just back off and not convert as I’ve been really worried about destroying the body. In each case I’ve just gone for it and it’s ended up OK, but I’ve been playing around with models for years, I really do understand why some will think they need somebody else to do it for them.

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People buy RTR models, not RTR models which they have to take apart

In fairness to Atlas - they have been selling RTR loco's across their main range with DCC onboard for many, many years. Well over a decade. All versions of the GP40-2 and the B40-8 sold have had that option for example.

 

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Indeed, a fair point. And lest my comment risk being taken as anti-Atlas I have to say I’m a fan of their models. To take the Dash8-40B it is in my opinion very crisply moulded, well finished, with a good level of detail and is a very sweet runner which captures the look of the prototype extremely well. Whilst it may lack some of the bells and whistles of the latest super detailed releases it is nevertheless an excellent model with a robust feel and in some ways the crispness of the moulding and nice paint finish are better than some ostensibly higher spec models.

There seems to be a lot of manufacturers that offer two versions of their models (particularly US outline), either full fat DCC sound, or DCC ready but not chipped. So for those (like me I’ll admit) who have converted to DCC but do not like sound it is still a case of DIY to chip most models. For me I am OK to do that but I do think it is something that hinders take up of DCC.

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Well, I took a loco apart, then realised it was a GP-40 and not a Silver series one (its a 2004 release one). It has no provision for speakers like the Silver Series one and in fact the interior components don't seem to match any of the diagrams on the Atlas site. http://www.atlasrr.com/hoparts.htm. Have another try tomorrow. For what its worth, I undid the coupler screws and pulled up on the cab nd, this end slid up a bit but the long hood took a lot more wiggling. When you are getting them apart its important to recognise that the long walkways and the hoods are separate parts and not to let them get too far out of alignment as the handrails are fixed to both. Looking at the diagrams and from past experience this seems to be the case for most Atlas hood locos although the clip lugs vary in position.

I'll have a go on the GP40-2W tomorrow, that is definitely Silver series.

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Thanks. I understand that Atlas use 2 speakers about 1 inch diameter. I planned to measure the space to see what might fit. 2 28mm speakers if poss, otherwise next available smaller. I have emailed Coastal DCC, but no reply so far. I understand they are in the middle of a move at present and may not even be able to reply. Trevor

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Well I had a go at a GP40-2W and the body came off really easily! Sorry! :scratchhead:

After undoing the coupler screws and pulling the couplers out the long hood end was pretty loose. Pulling the sills outwards gently at the truck centre released that end, then some wiggling at the cab end released that too. Watch out for the lighting wiring attached to the body. The lugs that hold the cab end down are above the inside axle of the truck.

post-6836-0-32919700-1464477183_thumb.jpg

 

 

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