TONFANAU CAMP - IT AIN'T HALF WET MUM

[81A Oldoak]

The level crossing gates have been temporarily sited at Tonfanau Camp. They will go in permanently when I have sorted out the ashpalt on the road,. I am testing kiln-dried block-paving sand in sticky grey paint; it looks promising so far.

[Focalplane]

My Heljan Prairie order is based on nostalgia as the class was extensively used on Birmingham suburban trains when I was growing up on the North Warwickshire Line.  I noted somewhere that I always remember them running in reverse though that couldn't be true as they used a traverser at Moor Street.

 

But if when I own one I will still run it at Penmaenpool!

[coachmann]

I have not seen photos of the large prairie tank on the Cambrian coast line or from Ruabon to Barmouth Junction. I might invest in the Heljan model as I can justify it for South Wales and Cwm Bach.

These locomotives rarely worked on the Llangollen line admittedly, but during Eisteddfod week they ran shuttle services between Llangollen and Chester and were occasionally seen as far as Bala. No. 5179 was photographed at Llangollen heading for Ruabon in 1957 and is featured on the current  'Friends of Llangollen' leaflet.

 

While they most likely did not work over the Cambrian, they were blue restriction and so could have done post 1960.

Edited May 1, 2017 by coachmann

[marc smith]

I really like this 81A Oldoak. You've done some great research and found some superb photos and background material...
Really like the concept of the military camp railway too. Fab stuff, and great modelling so far. Can't wait to see it finished. Fab

[81A Oldoak]

Peppa Pig and her brother George visited Tonfanau Camp station today. The district railway superintendent Mr Klein hastily laid on a special train. The train was driven by his granddaughter Adelaide because the regular driver Miss Rabbit was on holiday. Everyone had a good time. The end.

[railwayrod]

Hi Chris

 

Have just one thing to say - FABULOUS.

 

Rod

[Northroader]

Where's the muddy puddles?

[81A Oldoak]

Where's the muddy puddles?

Coming soon.

[Simond]

Aren't they a blues band?

 

If not, they should be

[81A Oldoak]

Groundwork on Tonfanau Camp is progressing, albeit at a slow place. The photos show one of the bufferstops, which  requires more work. I shall add some longer grass from woodland Scenics Field Grass and probably some wild flowers. A rusty old oil drum may also appear. The other two photos show the overgrown track on the line that will eventually lead to Tonfanau quarry. The vegetation in all of the photos is static grass applied with the PECO applicator. I have tried most static applicators from the El Cheapo tea strainer variety to the expensive Noch model; without doubt the PECO model is the most effective.

 

Regards,

 

CK

 

[pwr]

Did you use the Peco spray glue to increase the height/apply second layer

 

Paul R

[Western Star]

without doubt the PECO model is the most effective.

That is an interesting statement - please expand on your thinking.

[81A Oldoak]

Did you use the Peco spray glue to increase the height/apply second layer

 

Paul R

Paul,

I used a bottle of El Cheapo pva glue from Poundland for the first application. The grass around the buffer was a blend of 3mm and 12 mm fibres applied simultaneously. The grass between the rails by the crossing is a single layer. The grass either side of the track was a first layer of short fibres dropped into the El Cheapo pva glue. The second application of 12mm fibres was dropped onto cheap aeresol glue. I have not found it necessary to use glues from PECO, Woodland Scenics etc who seem to play the printer ink scam with their expensive "special-purpose-nothing-else-will-work-as-well" adhesives.

 

That is an interesting statement - please expand on your thinking.

Of all the static fibre applicators I have tried, the fibres stand up best with the PECO model. Please do not ask me why because I don't know.

[Simond]

In principle, the reason they work is that the fibres are made from an insulating that will carry a charge. The instrument applies a charge to the fibres, which, being "like charges" repel each other.

 

The glue is connected electrically to the other pole of the instrument, and this is the "opposite charge", and the fibres are attracted to it, for which reason the glue must be conductive (everything is relative, a high resistance is ok, the voltages are high too).

 

The fibres stick into the glue, but their outer ends are still charged, and still repelling the other fibres, so they try not to lie down.

 

All being well, this situation persists until the glue sets.

 

More here:

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flocking_(texture)

 

Best

Simon

[81A Oldoak]

In principle, the reason they work is that the fibres are made from an insulating that will carry a charge. The instrument applies a charge to the fibres, which, being "like charges" repel each other.

 

The glue is connected electrically to the other pole of the instrument, and this is the "opposite charge", and the fibres are attracted to it, for which reason the glue must be conductive (everything is relative, a high resistance is ok, the voltages are high too).

 

The fibres stick into the glue, but their outer ends are still charged, and still repelling the other fibres, so they try not to lie down.

 

All being well, this situation persists until the glue sets.

 

More here:

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flocking_(texture)

 

Best

Simon

Simon,

I understand the physics, but I don't undestand why my PECO applicator is better than the others I have tried. It is certainly not a case of the most expensive is the best.

Chris

[Simond]

Hi Chris,

 

Please excuse grandma and the eggs...

 

I haven't any experience of the Peco applicator, however, there are very few variables that might be relevant. Voltage is the obvious one, but I suspect that the mesh size may have an effect. Polarity may also be relevant. I'm not sure what else there is (apart from humidity, distance between applicator and glue, glue type, fibre type, length, thickness, all of which could apply to any instrument)

 

Looking on the W3 suggests that it is the same instrument as the smaller WWS unit, with an alternative sticker, but the Peco one is certainly available for less. However, anyone wavering may consider this interesting.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/100136-static-grass/?p=1925793

 

I couldn't find any info about voltages, except Noch, who claim 20kV for their Grassmaster.

 

Which other units have you tried? I tried a home brewed tea-strainer-and-flyswat and rapidly consigned it to the recycling as unutterably useless. I had more success using an HV power supply from work, but it was a mega-faff, and I really should buy a proper tool for the job at some stage.

 

Best

Simon

[3 link]

The glue is connected electrically to the other pole of the instrument, and this is the "opposite charge", and the fibres are attracted to it, for which reason the glue must be conductive

Best

Simon

Hi Simon,

 

So are you saying that normal PVA is conductive? Or would it help if you diluted the glue with a little salt water maybe ?

 

I enjoy these informative posts, it reminds me of that children's TV program from many moons ago with Jack Hargreaves and Fred Dinnage, " HOW ".

 

All the best,

 

Martyn.

[Simond]

Hi Martyn,

 

Fred Dineage, or Jack Hargreaves? (Thinking back to teenage years, I have the hair of the former, and the age of the latter!!!)

 

There was a discussion regarding the conductivity of PVA on here, I think, some months ago. In the best tradition of children's tv, I did an experiment. As you can see, a 50mm length of wet kid's (washable "Art Glue") PVA has a resistance of 1.3Mohms, which is a deal higher than I expected.

 

The thing about static charges is that, at least to some degree, this resistance doesn't really matter, as all the glue will eventually (microseconds) get to the same potential relative to the shaker, and the resistance of the glue is very, very much less than the resistance of the air between the glue & the shaker, so it will work.

 

I'll experiment further (with dilution, etc) when I get round to doing some grassing...

 

Best

Simon

 

Edited May 14, 2017 by Simond

[Western Star]

I may be mistaken and in which case I apologise for the question...

 

Given your liking for Swindon products, why do you have a photo of some pretty dire ex-GER switch and crossing work on your bench?

 

[Simond]

And today's prize for exceptional observation goes to...

 

 

And the answer is because a dear friend of mine has not yet developed a liking or facility for Templot, so I prepared some templates for his new layout. To be fair, he's an exceptional modeller, with an encyclopaedic knowledge of things LNWR/LMS, and signalling, but he's disinclined to spend his retirement learning Templot!

 

I'll give extra ponts for saying where the photo was taken, and what the formation is called!

 

I rather like the cobbles, it'll be inspiration at some point for a dockside far from where it was taken!

 

Best

Simon

Edited May 14, 2017 by Simond

[Western Star]

I'll give extra ponts for saying where the photo was taken, and what the formation is called!

I shall desist from earning extra Nectars on the basis that I can name the book in which that image can be found...  to answer your challenge would take just a few minutes to open said tome and read some words!

[corneliuslundie]

At our club we have been experimenting with a low cost approach. Take two electronic fly swats, bout at three for about £6 on the net, and disembowel them. Put two of the electronic circuits end to end inside one of the handles with trailing leads to connect to the dispenser and the layout. The set-up works pretty well. Two circuIts in series give about 2000 V which seems to be enough for most purposes.

We have separated the applicator for the handle so that we can use either a glass jar (Lidl small olive jars in our case) or a strainer (three for a pound in our local pound shop)..

I was talking to one of the suppliers of "proper" gismos at a show recently and was told that their voltage is 1500 V. I suspect that that is at the low end to be effective.

Mesh size seems not to be very relevant except for the longer fibres - over 8 mm.

Yes, PVA is conductive enough for the static charge to build up. But the spike providing the baseboard end of the circuit needs to be as possible to the area where the glass is being applied.

One warning - 2000 v is quite a kick if the capacitors discharge through your hand, so gloves are a good idea - or just be careful.

I hope the above is helpful.

Or you can spend £80 one of of the commercial models - I am finding it quite possible to spend enough on the actual static grass and other scenic materials.

And finally, a moan. Why are so many of the scenic materials so garish in colour? Do the manufacturers never look out of the window (or perhaps they live in the centre of cities), or is it that they are so used to seeing excessively high chroma scenes on their TVs and haven't noticed that the real world doesn't match.

Jonathan

[Simond]

I shall desist from earning extra Nectars on the basis that I can name the book in which that image can be found...  to answer your challenge would take just a few minutes to open said tome and read some words!

Fair enough for the location, but the formation, I don't think, is named therein!

 

Best

Simon

[pwr]

If you are really hair shirted about it, how about rolling some very thin plasticard around a former and dropping it into boiling water to reform it?

 

Failing that, how about cutting up some vac formed corrugated roofing for 16mm or 1" scale and using that?

 

Solder some brass tube to a bit of brass plate, and then mill the top half of the tube away.

 

You could probably do the same with a small belt sander, although you'd have to be careful that you didn't get the work so hot that the solder melted.

Chris

 

Sorry to hijack your thread again but I have found a way to cut plastic tube without it deforming. Stick it to a sheet of plastikard and the use a ruler across this and a similar depth of rod.nyiu can then cut it with a sharp blade without it deforming or rolling around all over the place. Donut whilst the glue is still soft so you can get it off later. Plastic straws didn't work because they won't stick with normal liquid glue.

 

I will post pictures on Black Notley

 

Paul R

[Giles]

Paul,

Have a look at umbrella ribs, there are some sections that are very useful, and cheap umbrellas are a good source of supply.

Peter

Plus 1 for that - I use the same and very good they are. They are steel, and solder well. I solder end plates on as well as downpipes, and I made gutter brackets to fit them as well. Edited May 15, 2017 by Giles