PhilMortimer Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 (edited) So this weekend we were away, in south western PA and nothing got done to the loco's. We went to visit Fallingwater, Frank Lloyd Wright's famous architectual masterpiece. However, on the way I did find this GP 30 sitting at Frostburg Station (Depot in US parlance). . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr It is part of the fleet for the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad, running from Cumberland to Frostburg on part of the old Western Maryland Railway. The railway's 2-8-0 is currently out of action for its federally mandated 1472 day inspection and the alternative 2-6-6-2 mallet isn't quite ready for operation. so at the moment it is an all diesel operation. Still, that is fine by me. On this occasion, the loco was sitting at the station with one carriage which it subsequently proceeded to push back to Cumberland. Quite why it didn't run round I don't know, but it was odd to see. Most trains are formed of 6-8 cars and have the loco's on the front in the conventional manner. In some ways a little bit of modelling progress was made. Whilst mooching around Cumberland, which is a fairly small town right at the end of the C&O canal, we stumbled across an old fashioned model shop. And unbelievable, they had stocks of Humbrol enamels, which I have been virtually unable to obtain here in the US. You can get Humbrol Acrylics readily enough, but I just don't get on with them very well. Whilst they didn't have every shade I needed, i replenished a fair few. Even better, they also stocked Windsor and Newton water soluble oil paints, which are really good for weathering as described by Giles Flavell. I stocked up on Lamp Black for future weathering! I have never seen these before in the States so this was a major score in an odd location! Indeed, every time I have visited Cumberland, which isn't that often, I have located something that I've been trying to get hold of for ages without success. Last time it was the service manual for my Series 3 Land Rover. This time, Humbrol enamels and Windsor and Newton paints. For a very small town in the mountains far from anywhere, it is not the likliest of places to find such things. I think I need to go back more often! Anyhow, just a few pictures showing latest progress. The first shows the buffer housings in place on one of the power units. The drawhook is also just sitting in place for the picture and the housings need a bit more cleaning up. But they fit nicely and bring some life to the power units. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The next shows the recently added boiler fittings, namely the top feed, safety valve base and whistle / manifold. These were all attached with 100 degree solder, which is invaluable for this type of work. the safety valves (seen top left) will be fitted using epoxy after painting. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Finally, the underside of the firebox, showing the ashpan hopper removed from the base of the firebox,as detailed in previous posts, along with the component pieces of the ashpan hopper itself that need to be re-assembled. I need to make a former to do this as suggested by Simon D. The hole in the base of the firebox framing is so that I can fill it with lead shot for ballasting at the end of the build. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Progress will be delayed for the next couple of days whilst I prepare the OO9 South African class 91's for painting. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120295-phil-mortimers-workbench-4mm-scale-and-7-mm-scale-south-african-class-91-000s/?p=2630352 These loco's have been in primer for a while and now that I have found the correct paint, I want to get the top-coating into the final livery completed. The hiatus will also allow me time to make the ashpan former ready for rebuilding of the ashpans, whilst awaiting delivery of the replacement buffer housing (to replace the damaged one) that Trevor Cousens has kindly popped in the post to me. Top marks for Customer Service from Mercian. P Edited October 24, 2017 by PhilMortimer 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 Started making up the brakes, by laminating the two etched parts for each shoe and hanger together. 16 in total! Pictures to follow tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 So, whilst awaiting the replacement buffer which is in the tender(?) hands of the Royal Mail and USPS, I started on the brakes. Firstly, a quick view of the etches, showing that each brake assembliy consists of 2 parts that have to be laminated together, the rear hanger and the actual etched brake block itself. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The rear of the individul brake blocks were tinned with solder whilst on the fret. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Before being removed from the fret, tidied up and then carefully positioned on the larger hanging link and soldered into position using the RSU. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The two completed brake assemblies were then removed from the fret and tidied up with a file before being stored away safely. Then rinse and repeat 7 more times to get a total of 16 brake assemblies (2 loco's remember!) . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Next thing will be to add some brass rod through the top of each assembly that will eventually clip into some tube that will form the frame hangers. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 Pins added to the brakes ready for clipping into tubular hangers that hopefully will be added to the chassis tonight. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 First set of 4 tubular brake hangers added to power unit #1 last night whilst i had a few minutes to spare. Easier than I thought. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 6, 2017 Author Share Posted November 6, 2017 Fitting of the tubular brake hangars to the frames has been completed. The brakes have now been removed and stored, awaiting fabrication of brake stretchers (none supplied, so will have to be made from scratch or suitable ones bought in). It is now time for a bit of housekeeping. The wheel tyre's and axles have started to show some surface rusting, despite being blackened and oiled. It is probably the humidity here. The wheels and axles have all been removed from the chassis, labled and placed into plastic bags to avoid mixing them up. The axles have been polished by placing in a drill and spinning with some jewlers polishing paper. They were then re-blackened, washed and dried using isopropanol, then oiled with a heavier machine oil than before. They are now currently stored. The wheels will also undergo the same polishing process. Hopefully, this will give them better protection. One wheel had the Slaters CSK screw round off the hex socket and so had to be drilled out. The wheel has been salvaged (Good!), but a replacement axle was prepared due to the dufficulty in removing the stub of the drilled out screw. No matter, I had a spare axle and the drilled one will become a mandrel to mount the wheels for spin polishing. I was suprised this screw siezed, as I fill the axle ends with oil and also smear some molycote on the screw threads before tightening down.. Wil all the axles out, the chassis units are now awiting a really good scrub and clean up, which is difficult to do with the wheels in situ. All of this will take a few days to complete, but I hope to get everything back together by the weekend (assuming I get time to do so), ready for re-assembling and fitting the ashpans. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 Work on completing the brake blocks and hangers have been completed. After completing assembly of all 16 brakes, pins needed to be added so that they can be hung from the frames. These pins need to be at 90 degrees to the brakes. the easiet way to do this was to drill a vertical hole in some thin ply to hold the 0.9mm wire used for the pins, slip the brake over the wire and solder in place whilst holding the brake flat on the ply. remove assembly, snip off the excess wire and clean up. Jon done. Now just another v15 to do....... The picture below should make it clear. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr It should be noted that the wire was a little smaller than the etched hole in the brake, but this didn't create any significant problems. 0.9mm was the larget wire that i could use which would fit in the brass tube I had. One the brakes were all made, they were used to help align the tubular brake hangers hilst soldering into the frames. I don't have any significant pictures of this work underway, but basically small lengths of 1.2mm OD brass tube were inserted through holes in the frames, into which the brake pins are fitted. The brakes were used to align the hangers so that the brakes lined up with the wheel treads. Other pices of wire and rod were used to hold everything in the correct alignment for soldering. The result is this :- . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The tubular brake hangers can be seen passing through the frames to the right of each wheel. When the brakes are installed after painting, they will clip into these hangers, allowing for easy removal for maintenance. Finally, a side on view showing the brakes in position. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The brakes have all been removed now and stored safeley ready for fitting of the the brake stretchers (which need to be obtained or fabricated) and pull rods. No strieters are present in the kit - one is supposed to use some brass wire, but the GA shows diamond shaped stretchers, so I will probably have to make these unless some can be obtained from a manufacturer. Once the brake work was done to my satisfaction, it was time for some housekeeping. The second picture above shows some surface rust forming on both the wheels and axles. These had been blued /blackened and oiled in the past, but obviously it wasn't sufficient. To be fair, i have had to do some soldering operations with the wheels in place and so flux fumes probably attached the steel. And its always damned humid here during the summer anyhow! Anyhow, the wheelsets have been removed from all power units, carefully labled and stored. Each wheel has been removed from its axle, mounted on a spare axle in a drill and polished by spinning against glass fibre brush. After polishing, the wheel was cleaned with rubbing alcohol, dried and then blackened. (Needed to get some fresh gun blue first, so had to find a gun store - interesting experience!). After rinsing and drying with more alcohol, the wheels were oiled with machine oil. Previously, I had used light oil. This time I used a thicker one for greater protection. A simmilar process was used to polish, blacken and oil the axles. So far, I have done all the axles and 8 wheels for two power units. Eight more still to do - it is not a job I enjoy! The wheels have been re-attached to their respective rods, oiled again and wrapped in tisssue and placed in ziploc baggies for safekeeping and storage for the moment. I had wanted to re-wheel the power units as soon as possible, but a re-think leads me to believe that the wheels are not really needed for most of the operations required to complete the frames. Therefore, I now intend to complete the frames as much as possible without the wheel sets in (attach sandboxes, valve guides, valve ends, Cylinder cocks, etc), then give the frames a good clean and spray them before re-assembly. It will also allow me to build up the gearboxes ready for installation when the time comes. And so this is the current state of play at the moment. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 13, 2017 Author Share Posted November 13, 2017 (edited) Not alot of work done on this over the past few days - teaching most of the weekend and sunday afternoon was spent splitting logs for the fire place. I now hurt lots! Still the cats will be pleased, espescially with the onset of winter. If nothing else it will keep them from trying to get on my lap whilst at the workbench........ 3Cats by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr I did get a couple of hours to polish, blacken and oil the remaining wheels on saturday evening. So that job (which i truly detest) is now done and the wheels are stored safely ready for refitting. Now I will crack on with trying to fininish the frames. Diane is away for much of this week, so I hope to get a few hours each evening. Edited November 17, 2017 by PhilMortimer 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveNCB7754 Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 Not alot of work done on this over the past few days - teaching most of the weekend and sunday afternoon was spent splitting logs for the fire place. I now hurt lots! Still the cats will be pleased, espescially with the onset of winter. If nothing else it will keep them from trying to get on my lap whilst at the workbench........ 3Cats by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr I did get a couple of hours to polish, blacken and oil the remaining wheels on saturday evening. So that job (which i truly detest) is now done and the wheels are stored safeley reay for refitting. Now I will crack on with trying to fininish the frames. Diane is away for much of this week, so I hope to get a few hours each evening. Ahh, my favourite - roast cat!! (LOL) :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 14, 2017 Author Share Posted November 14, 2017 (edited) Yes, i think the stripes on Ion are actually griddle marks! She gets very close to the stove at times. The others are more sensible - Francis sits on the post at a distance and Stew curls up in the base of the post. The final four buffer shank castings were fitted to the remaining power units last night. One less job to do now. Next up is the valve fronts and the cylinder cocks - holes are present in the cylinder wrappers for the latter, but no instructions on fitting them of if there are castings supplied. Oh well. A picture of the main loco components so far. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Reminds me of the pictures of Vic Berry's scrap yard in the 80's and 90's. But this is assembly, not scrapage. Edited November 14, 2017 by PhilMortimer 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 15, 2017 Author Share Posted November 15, 2017 (edited) So I have identified some of the castings I was looking for. Suprisingly (to me anyhow), the very fragile drain cocks are in WM. I was looking for them in the brass lost wax bag. I think tonight is going to be an exercise of locating and cleaning up all the requisite astings for the next few build sessions. Edited November 15, 2017 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 Power unit sandbox castings all cleaned up ready for fitting. Spent ages looking for eight of them, only to realise there should only be four, as they are only fitted to the inside of the rear frame of the front power unit. D'oh! (I think the rear unit has the sandboxes mounted in the bunker - the firebox prevents them being fitted to the inner end of the rear power unit). Started to mark up and drill the holes in the brackets to accept the sandboxes, (They are not etched in). However, I messed up on the marking out and drilling, so will now need to fill some holes with solder and repeat. Decided that it was a good time to stop and go to bed at that point. One thing noted is that the sandbox brackets on the model are actually different in profile form the real thing. Too late tyo change now though, but could explain the error in marking out. Either that or I just messed up! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 (edited) New holes drilled in the brackets for the sandboxes and opened up to the correct size with a broach. I had to remove and replace the cast support at the other end of the sandbox, due to it not being deep enough to get the sandboxes parallel to the frames. This is probably due to the fact that I had to crank the brackets back slightly to get them to clear the wheel flanges. A replacement support was made from square brass rod was soldered to the sandbox and then the sandboxes solderd to the frames at the point at which the securing lugs poke through the frame bracket. The other end of the sandbox cannot be soldered to the frame as it is resting on milliput. A smear of epoxy resin will be used here. A picture would be worth a thousand words, but I don't have one! I still need to drill out the holes in the sandboxes for the sandpipes, but this will be done in due course. I also have to workout how the rear power unit sandpipes fit to the frames, as the layout is different from the front power unit. A start has been made on cleaning up the rather delicate cylinder cock mechanism castings. Edited November 20, 2017 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 Cylinder drain cock castings cleaned up an fitted last night. Being cast in WM, they were rather delicate on their own and subject to bending, but are suprisingly solid once soldered into place. Soldered using the magic Carrs 100 degree solder - wonderful stuff. Tin the brass using a normal iron, add part, coat in flux and quickly zap the brass close to the casting with the RSU. Solder melts, flows and sets solid in seconds. Works even with very small and delicate WM parts. Now for the valve fronts. Also spending time working out how the sandpipes run. I forsee me making lots of bent bits of wire shortly! And still no photo's.... Sorry! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) It was Thanksgiving here in the US last week, which meant a holiday (OK, time off work rather than a rest!). Apart from the obligatory family obligations on Thursday, I avoided most of the roo-rah that goes with it and concentrated on more important things. Black friday was NOT on my list of things to do. A great deal of house and yard work was done, wood was cut, split and stacked, fences were mended, the car was tidied and emptied of accumulated junk and I got some time with the garratts. First up, the front valve covers were added behind the front bufferbeam, as seen in the picture below of the upside down frame. These were added with Carrs 100 degree solder as described previously. Also noticable are the tubular brake hangers for the brake assembly, and the cylinder cocks are fitted. Since this is a rear power unit, it does not have the sandboxes added to the inner end of the frame. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Next up, the cast brass valve guides were cut from the sprues after being straigtened up. These now need to be drilled. I have yet to work out how to hold them for that operation. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Finally, it was time to finish those blasted lower ashpans. I had tried various ways of putting this together, but it always ended up out of square. Turns out this was because the front and rear etches wern't symetrical - D'oh! Anyhow, I kept trying various things and in the end, the method I came up with proved to be the simplets and easiest method. To each of the four parts of the lower ashpan (two sides, front and end), I soldered a strip of very thin and flexible copper shim (0.002") along the edge that was to be attached to the upper ashpan. About half the strip was soldered to the lower ashpan parts, leaving the remainder exposed. Each side was then lined up with the existing lower ashpan assembly already fitted to the loco, clamped in place and then the remaining strip soldered to the inner side of the existing upper ashpan. This firmly attached the lower ashpan side to the remainder of the loco, but acted as a hinge, allowing the lower ashpan sides to be flexed and adjusted into position. Hopefully the picture below will clarify that somewhat complicated description. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Once both sides were attached, then the ends could be fitted in the same manner, but using the sides to ensure that they were correctly centered. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Once all four parts were soldered to the upper ashpan, they could be bent and manipulated into place to align the edges of the lower ashpan components, clamped and then soldered together. Once soldered, a strong structure resulted. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr The key to getting this right was careful alignment and it took time to do both loco's. Indeed, I had to do this three times, as I managed to get a twist into the first one I did and had to blow it all apart with the blow-torch and do it all over again. but it was worth it. (The photo's above are from this third and last build). The ashpans now sit about 1mm above railhead when mounted on the power units, which looks right compared to prototype photo's. BTW, the hole in the underside of the firebox is so I can eventually fill the firebox with lead shot for weight! Next job to bend up teh sandpipes ready for attaching to the power units. I'm having some difficulty finding good shots showing how many and the actual locations of the sandpipes. The GA I have is for the Vivian Garratt, which was slightly different to the ones I'm building, and shows multiple sandpipes on each unit. I need to find some good photo's before proceeding. Edited November 27, 2017 by PhilMortimer 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 (edited) So I think I've worked out the sand-pipe arrangements. I found a nice builders picture of Sneyd No 2 which shows them clearly, so i will be following that. I spent much of last night bending up pices of copper wire to mock out how to make them. Ended up with a pile of scrap copper wire, but think I have it cracked now. Just need to settle down to make and fit them all...... (Ther are easier ways to go crazy!) Edited November 29, 2017 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Work progresses slowly. I have now figured out how to make and fit the outer end (cylinder end) sandpipes and have done so on two of the four power units. These are the most complex and time consuming to make and fit. Ultimately, after determining the correct shape, a jig was fabricated so each pipe could be prefabricated off the loco, then fitted and tweaked to final shape. bending and fitting was helped by flame annealing the wire first. The remaining four will be fitted over the next day or so, then attention will turn to the inner ends, which will be easier since the slidebars won't be in the way. The inner end sand pipes are different for the front and rear power unitsts, due to the front power unit having sandboxes fitted to the inner end of the frames, whilst the rear unit has the sandboxes on the bunker. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 (edited) All sandpipes have now been fitted. This took a suprisingly long time, due to the need to bend each one to fit in a number of different directions, requiring fitting, test fit, removal, modofication and repeat for each one. bending was made easier by annealing the brass in a flame. But ultimately, they now all fit and I am happy with the outcome. The photo below shows the sandboxes attached to the inner end of the front power unit being drilled to accept the sandpipe. As usual, the hand powered pillar drill was used here to avoid the drill bit snatching in the WM sandbox and ripping it off the frame. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr And the next two photo's shows the front and rear power units with all sand pipes fitted. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr With the sand pipes being in close proximity to the brake shoes, these were clipped in and tested to ensure that they would indeed fit with the sandpipes fitted. They do. The only thing left to do now is fit the front steps and hand rail pillar. The latter is cast WM and likely to be vulnerable to damage, so will be replaced with N/S wire.Simmilarly, theh front steps will also probabaly require bracing with N/S wire for structural integrity. I have yet to work out how these steps fit and go together - the instructions are rather vauge on this. Following compltion of these steps, it will be on to completing and fitting the valve gear. I need to build these up in order to use them to help fit the valve guides in the correct place on the rear cylinder faces. The instructions are very vauge on this - basically a couple of badly photocopied B/W photographs and some suggestions on how to pin the the various bits together. No guidance on which bits fit to which are given, which will make life interesting. See photo below. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr It actually looks clearer in this picture than in real life! Fortunately, I have built a number of sets of walshaerts valve gear and have an idea as to what goes where. But I still need to work out which parts are forked, as the VG is designed to have prototypical forked ends.This could be fun. And I have eight sets to build......... Edited December 7, 2017 by PhilMortimer 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 (edited) The information is sparse... You will need to make lifting links, as they are not supplied 2017-12-07_06-44-52 by giles favell, on Flickr Garrett valve gear by giles favell, on Flickr The grab post is tapered on the full size, as looks nice if one has the facilities to do it. I spun some wire down in the late which did the trick. A drill would do, with a needle file... Edited December 7, 2017 by Giles 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 (edited) Thanks Giles, Those pictures are very helpful. Yes, spent a while looking for the lifting links on the frets and in the castings packet before coming to the conclusion that they wern't present. I think the actual lifting links are present, but the lifting arm certainly isn't. So something I will need to make. Pity, as I wish I'd known before, so I could have drilled the holes in the plate frames for the layshaft before assembling the chassis...... Gonna be fun to do this in situ! The expension link brackets and castings that you substituted look very good - far more substantial than the etched ones. Thanks as always, P Edited December 7, 2017 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Youre quite right.... memory failing! It was the lifting arms to had to make, together with their shafts! The castings were very nice - they were Stelfox castings from thirty years back, specifically for the Garrett (I got when myself and a well known kit manufacturer were going to produce a kit of this - but it was pre-empted by this one). I doubt that these are available anymore though. I think I too ended up drilling these in situ. The biggest problem being working out where to drill the hole..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted December 8, 2017 Author Share Posted December 8, 2017 (edited) I pretty much reached the same conclusion re drilling the hole. Will probably make a template to do so once I have figured out where it goes, but have yet to figure out how to do so. Will probably need to assemble some valve gear sets to enable working out where the hole in the plate frames should be. Front steps added to the buffer beam last night. Upper step had rivets bomped out ansd then soldered directly to the bufferbeam after careful alignment. The lower step was soldered to a piece of 0.7 mm dia N/S wire for strength, which was then soldered behind the bufferbeam. The N/S wire replaced the etched bracket provided, as I didn't think the latter would be strong enough to resist the inevitable handling (though looking at pictures of the real thing, these got bumped and bent quite a bit). The lower step had a nice half etched rebate on its lower side that aided fitting of the bracket - a nice piece of design. The grab iron / pillar needs to be fitted. As Giles suggested, this will be made up by filing some more N/S wire in the drill to give it a taper. Also, have to work out where to drill the hole to solder it into place....... Tonights job I think. Edited December 8, 2017 by PhilMortimer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted December 11, 2017 Author Share Posted December 11, 2017 (edited) The footsteps and hand rail stanchion have been added, basically bringing an end to detailing of the chassis units. As described above, the lower footsteps were soldered to some N/S wire, with the 4 completed footsteps shown upside down below awaiting installation on the loco power units. . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr These were then soldered to the rear of the bufferbeam. The upper footsteps were zapped into place on the front of the bufferbeam. The handrail stanchions were made from brass wire, sanded to a taper by mounting in a min-drill and using various grades of sandpaper to form the taper. One has to be careful, as the friction can lead to things becoming hot, including ones fingertips! Once completed, the stanchions were tinned at the base and inserted into a hole in the foot plate that was opened out to the correct size. Final soldering was done with the RSU ensuring that the stanchion was verticle in all directions. I still have to make the little rounded tops that go on the tips of the stanchion - how to do this has yet to be determined! In the meantime, here are the completed power units, with steps and stanchions fitted to the front RHS (as looking at each power unit) . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr All this means that the power unit chassis are now essentially complete. I can prevaricate no more - it is time to get on with the valve gear. Unless I build the bunkers of course....... However, the VG really needs to be done and will be the focus of the next few weeks. I have started by laminating the lift levers together, using a jig to get everything lined up. I now need to consistently press and form the forked ends in the various rods before laminating up the rest of the rods. And I have eight sets of everything to do....... The valve gear frets are shown below.... . by Phil Mortimer, on Flickr Edited December 11, 2017 by PhilMortimer 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 (edited) My 'knob' was done with a blob of epoxy resin... IMG_1166 by giles favell, on Flickr Edited December 11, 2017 by Giles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 (edited) Here's my lifting arms - joined with a hit of tube in the centre of the frames Garrett lifting arms by giles favell, on Flickr Edited December 12, 2017 by Giles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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