RMweb Gold Argos Posted December 3, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2017 Hi Nick, I've slowly been building up a stock of evergreen sheets. These are 12" x 6" with 30 thou corrugations. My calcs make these about 50% over-scale, however seem to match the photos of the sheds well, I think the size of the sheds disguises the over-scale nature of the corrugations. They are also very neat, which is important for me as I am representing a freshly built structure, if I wanted something more careworn then I don't think they would do the job. I did consider trying to form my own out of thick aluminium foil, but I don't think I'd get the consistency to represent newly installed sheets. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Hayter Posted December 3, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 3, 2017 I know that feeling from the scalpel from painful memory how do you intend to make the corrugated iron ? my experience with the ratio sheets is they are too thick although some experiments using them as a template for card and a craft dye press is slightly better but still to my eye over scale and I will need a awful lot for line No16 Nick I agree about the knife which is why I now favour a post mortem knife over a scalpel - but if you do slip it will take out tendons and small bones rather than just skin. As for corrugated sheet, try using heavy gauge aluminium foil (take away trays are great) pressed onto a Wills sheet as a master. It will cost you a fortune in Chow Mein and number 76 however! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted December 3, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 3, 2017 Wills sheets are 4mm and alas we are talking 2mm i may have to investigate Missy's option although I lack the lathe and associated skills Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted December 3, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2017 Jerry (Queensquare) formed his for the colliery buildings on his layout using the corrugation on a coffee jar lid:- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/41520-corrugated-sheeting/ Post #2 His look very effective, I just doubt my ability to make these look freshly installed, particularly over such a large area. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Redutex do some corrugated sheets in N - I've not tried them, but I've used some of their other texture sheets and have been impressed with them, albeit that they're not cheap. http://tienda.redutex.com/en/87-industrial-roofs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted December 4, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 4, 2017 so this is my attempt using the ratio N gauge sheet as stencil and a embossing machine it comes in at about 1.5mm from dip to peak so about 4.5" scale I think it should be nearer 2-3" although it looks good on the card makers foil it embosses well in card I may do a test building to see show I feel once completed and roughly painted Nick 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted December 9, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 9, 2017 (edited) Well, that's the first days exhibiting done, and rather enjoyable it was too. The Poynton show was sparsely attended today, I'm guessing the weather kept a lot of folk at home, which is a shame for the organizers as there is a lot to see and clearly some effort has been put into arranging exhibits from different elements of the modelling fraternity. Hopefully the weather tomorrow will be kinder. This probably made it an ideal first exhibition to learn from. Whilst the trackwork still has some snags to iron out, it didn't perform as badly as I feared. A second operator is a must though. I found it almost impossible to talk and operate at the same time, clearly multi-tasking is not a strong point. Thanks to everyone who took an interest, and if you are coming tomorrow pop by and say "hello". A couple of RMwebbers did just that, and it was a pleasure to put some faces (and names) to people. Edited December 9, 2017 by Argos 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 10, 2017 Glad the first day went well. I hope today wasn't snowed out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted December 11, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 11, 2017 Hi Chris, Sunday was busier and we seemed to have missed the worst of the snow. It was still quiet though so I suspect many were understandably put off going to the show. I hope is didn't affect the organisers too much. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted December 30, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 30, 2017 (edited) Hope everyone had a great Christmas! I had hoped to get some modelling done after a bit down time following the Poynton show. I needed to catch up with neglected Christmas preparations as my spare time had been dedicated to getting the layout ready for the show. Then, on the Friday before Christmas I managed to snap my bicep tendon in my left arm which looks like it will need an operation to reconnect. It's taken a week or so but I now have full range of movement although no strength as only about half the bicep is connected. So excuses over on with the modelling......... I have had a bit of time to ponder since the show. I've never been particularly happy with the wooded carcass to the airship shed. The first version, built out of 3mm ply, warped, the second, built from hardboard, collapsed after being man handled whilst packing up after the show. Clearly a rethink is needed. At Poynton Keith Armes was showing off a rather exquisite mill on his demonstration stand. Chatting to him about it revealed it was a clear perspex core covered with surface materials. The result is I am now the proud owner of a 4mm thick sheet of clear polystyrene form the local DiY shop. This should have the advantage of building up into a solid, dimensionally stable core the should readily accept styrene sheet covering. I also enjoyed running the diesels. The original intent of Gelncruitten, apart from being a worthwhile model in its own right, was to develop stock for a larger layout to be built sometime in the future based on the Callander and Oban line. For this two timescales appeal, immediately prior to the First World war and the early sixties when pre-grouping locos were still wheezing their way around with newer standard steam types and the new diesels. My idea was always to run the two periods, separately of course. So could the airship base have survived to the sixties? I think so, if built it would have been a useful asset on the west coast, used by coastal command in the second world war (flying boats were based a Kerrera and Ganavan. Thereafter used as a training and air sea rescue base. By making the airship scene removable I could substitute this with a more modern scene to anchor the time frame. I am currently thinking of Wessex air-sea rescue helicopter. These were introduced in 1962 and a rather nice kit exists in 1:144. Traffic into the base would be similar, coal for power generation, parts in covered vans, fuel in tankers, maybe some cement in Presflows for some construction work on the base (Presflows were common on the C&O in sixties being run up to Ballachulish to feed the aluminium smelter at Kinlochleven) The main focus will remain the pre-grouping period but it will be fun to dabble in the later date. I'll need to start a topic in another section to cover this later time period though, I can't be polluting this one with diesel fumes..... Edited December 30, 2017 by Argos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted January 1, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 1, 2018 The 4mm styrene was a good idea, a bit pricey perhaps, but for the size of building it builds up into a solid structure. Being plastic it should be easy add the corrugated sheeting. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Following this with eager eyes: not only is the layout broadly similar in scope (in terms of size, 'cameo', etc.) to what I'm hoping to achieve, but the brass locomotive construction is something I'm totally in awe of. You seemed to make quite a large jump from 'my first 2mm Brass loco and here is how the milling buggered it up', to 'here's the completed loco from a scratch aid' - having read the assocation's "how to scratch build an 0-6-0" I want to give it a bash, so I'd be very curious to hear about your intermediate steps. I've built a loco in 7mm and converted a few in 4mm to EM so I'm not wholly unaware of what's involved but please do share if you can. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted January 17, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) Hi Bill, Apologies for the delay in responding, I went down with the flu on Friday and only just beginning to feel human again. thanks for the compliments, like most things working in brass is not something to be scared of.There is plenty of advice around on RMweb and elsewhere. One of the threads I found most helpful when starting out (and still) was Jazz's workbench:- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/1094-jazz-7mm-workbench/ This thread repays careful reading as you will find many of the techniques need demonstrated here. His old thread on the archive section is also worth a read. I did jump quickly during the rebuild, partly because I had already built the loco once so knew the pitfalls and could work around them. If you want to see some detail of the original build they are on an old blog:-http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1220/entry-11631-all-the-fives-and-three-little-ducks-part-1-body-and-bogie/ my skills have evolved since then but in general my earlier soldering work just took longer to clean up. If it is of interest I post up more details as I continue the build. I've also received another Worsley Works scratch aid kit for a Drummond Jumbo from my wife for my birthday and will be attacking that in due course. Edited January 17, 2018 by Argos 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted January 23, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2018 Well no modelling for me for a while. I had an operation yesterday to reconnect the tendon in my arm. The problem is the tendon is tight so movement needs to restricted being eased every couple of weeks so it could be a month or so before I get enough movement to model. Still plenty of time for reading and planing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted January 23, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2018 Well no modelling for me for a while. I had an operation yesterday to reconnect the tendon in my arm. The problem is the tendon is tight so movement needs to restricted being eased every couple of weeks so it could be a month or so before I get enough movement to model. Still plenty of time for reading and planing! Tough news, that, although if you can manage planing [sic], then I am sure you are up to modelling... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted February 4, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2018 I managed about half and hour of modelling yesterday before having to stop with a sore arm. It might be small but at least I'm making progress! The result is there are now three sections of the cladding complete on the airship shed. A bit of filler will tidy this up prior to painting. These sheds were painted in a 3 coloured camouflage scheme, though this varied from base to base. This can be seen in this view of the Rigid of shed at Howden:- And in the photo of Longside in Edwardian's post here:- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_04_2016/post-25673-0-05584200-1459503097.jpg The questions is what would the colours be? Were there standard camouflage paints in WW1? The next section of cladding, the front face, will be the awkward one. This will have a series of windows at regular intervals. I've already got some appropriately sized etched windows from Nbrass so I just need to paint these up and start cutting. Once my arm is capable of holding down a straight edge for more than 15 minutes that is! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted February 4, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2018 If you paint in camouflage will you be able to find it again? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted February 4, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2018 I hadn't thought of that........ But then it'is WW1 camouflage so will be visible post 1918........ 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Edwardian Posted February 4, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2018 The questions is what would the colours be? Were there standard camouflage paints in WW1? Coming along well. But that is an excellent question. In WW2, they tended to paint buildings in olive green and earth brown, the aeroplane camouflage colours effectively. As this sort of camouflage was in its infantry and prone to experimentation during WW1, it is entirely possibly that there was not yet such a thing as a standard scheme. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Won't it just be black and white? I've never seen any photographs from then in colour. :-) Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Edwardian Posted February 4, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2018 Won't it just be black and white? I've never seen any photographs from then in colour. :-) Jim Like everything on your layout, I'd imagine? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted February 4, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2018 Well that would solve the "Caley blue" question , it's grey! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted February 4, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2018 You haven’t heard of “Fifty shades of Grey”? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted February 4, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2018 Coming along well. But that is an excellent question. In WW2, they tended to paint buildings in olive green and earth brown, the aeroplane camouflage colours effectively. As this sort of camouflage was in its infantry and prone to experimentation during WW1, it is entirely possibly that there was not yet such a thing as a standard scheme. Indeed, having spent the past few hours exploring the subject further I am now questioning whether there is only 3 colours. Early camouflage used by the British forces seems to be a very light sand, a blue grey, Brown and green. I'll post up some examples when I am back at the computer tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Edwardian Posted February 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2018 Well, I notice that I managed to type "infantry" instead of "infancy", though perhaps that's the auto-thingy. There are at least 3 colours on that shed, I think. The question regarding something huge like a hangar in a flat landscape, were they trying to make it less obvious so that, say, Zeppelins might not see it against the ground? If so, surely earth colours. Or, are they taking the view that it's a bl00dy great hangar that will stick out like a sore thumb, so let's just confuse the issue by breaking up its outlines like, say, dazzle patterns on ships. If the latter, it could be quite colourful. I'd go for the former in the absence of better information. Black, green, brown? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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