jazz Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hi guys. On this build the motor, because it is a very large unit, will have to be mounted on the fourth axle to get it into the firebox. I have, in the past, mounted quite a few on a sprung or compensated axle with no problems. I just prefer the axle to be solid. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Ken My 92022 drives on the fourth axle with no problem, in reality there isn't much vertical movement in the axle. I used an ABC/Maxon combination in mine and it is a tight fit to get the motor in the firebox. You have been warned! Not sure I like the idea of the Delrin drive, I know DJH use it in their 9F but I dispensed with it when I built one of theirs. All down to personal preference, although I will confess to having a Connoisseur 4F with chain drive and it purrs along, driving the rear axle. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Jeff. I quite agree about the Delrin. I too, resorted to changing it for an ABC in the DJH streamlined Duchess build a while ago. Unfortunately, it's what I've been supplied with, so I will have to use it. If the model was for myself, no way would I use it. Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 More progress made (very slow progress, I have to admit). A lot of time was spent cleaning up the crossheads/slide bars etc. Everything is fitting quite well together. It is amazing just how many parts there are for each section of the build. The slot and tabs are accurate but the slots need opening up to get the tabs in and there are a fair number of them so far. I have learned you just have to follow the instructions and not race off willy nilly as is my want with less complex builds. This is how it's looking so far. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 it REALLY must be complex if it's slowed you down Ken!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 It is, it has, but I've not been able to spent all day every day at it either, due to other events happening in the home. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Hi Ken, A good interesting build as usual Ken, and if I may ask a question. I see that you mention about opening the slots up, well this is one of my pet hates and it always seems to take more time than I would expect it to. Depending on the size of the slots I have used small thin files, drills and burrs and sometimes the tip of a Stanley knife, have you found a more efficient way ? ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) Hello Martyn, all, have a look in Boot's, I picked up a metal diamond nail file for about £1.50, that fits in most of the slots in 18 thou brass and N/S. I'd rather have the slots tight rather than slack, more so on the frames rather than the body. OzzyO. Edited February 7, 2014 by ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 I have two, bought off ebay, one thick, one thin, they are excellent for filing up slidebar slots too. Mine are called DiamonDeb. I think it's short for Diamond Debris, which they are coated with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 I do not think there is a 'quick' way to open up the slots. I use with a small drill and gently run that up and down the slot but only when the etches are of thicker materials. On this build, the materials are quite thin. I have an old 'knife edge' file that will fit in the narrowest of slots. Plus file both sides of the tab until a snug fit is obtained. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 I've been nibbling away at the chassis. (I suspect it would be quicker to build the prototype than this kit ) Anyway, I have completed as roar as I think I can until the body is underway. I about to tackle that onerous task today. The chassis so far. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 WAs it just a case of lots of bits Ken? Or did you have to do some knife and fork work to get it to fit together? Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Hi Tony. Parts went together quite well. It was a case of lots of parts, sheet after sheet of them. A ridiculously thick volume of instructions. No chance of assembly without following everything stage by stage in the correct order.. Dave did mention right at the start of the instructions that the prototype made for a complex and difficult kit to design and therefore not a straight forward quick build. as he said, follow the instructions and it will go together, so far he is proved to be right. I do keep taking breaks from it's build as I did not wish to get bogged down with it. We spent today exploring the Denbigh moors driving down some pretty scary loose gravel tracks with a dusting of snow all over. When it got so steep the traction control started to cause wheel spin we chickened out and back tracked to the black top. The sat nag found our way home as we had no idea where we were at one point. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Sat nag? Surely you don't refer to your better half like that? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Sat nag? Surely you don't refer to your better half like that? Very droll, but I don't think I'll show her that typo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) More progress today. I have to say, it's a well designed kit as everything does fit very. I have discovered the Delrin drive and huge Buhler motor has no chance of fitting inside the firebox. So that is now substituted with an ABC/Cannon unit. (Very happy with option.) Note I mark each part with a magic marker. Makes life a lot easier, I prepare each section of the build with all parts cut out and ready to solder. So far, so good. Edited February 12, 2014 by jazz 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I see the firebox former, those BR Std large fireboxes look tricky to fabricate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 I see the firebox former, those BR Std large fireboxes look tricky to fabricate. Yes, they are tricky. Just having some fun bending up the wrappers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) It doesn't look much for an afternoons work. (Who said this would be a quick build ). The final stage of the firebox build only required a minimum of tweaking considering how complex these BR fireboxes are. The only real chopping was to open out the recess for it to fit into the footplate. A template is provided to achieve this. It's still a very tight squeeze and gentle persuasion is required. If you want to have a minimum gap around the firebox that is. I have left the f/box & s/box loose for now, as I want to double check it all with the boiler before committing to soldering them in place. The smokebox all fitted very well. I still cannot understand how it's taking so long, a mystery. Anyway enough moaning, here it is for today. Edited February 13, 2014 by jazz 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 It looks like one at Barry, the copper boiler tubes were always first to go. Will the boiler/firebox/smokebox not be removable for painting, or is that not possible? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 It looks like one at Barry, the copper boiler tubes were always first to go. Will the boiler/firebox/smokebox not be removable for painting, or is that not possible? Ye gods, I'm not going down that road, have you looked at the prototype with all that junk attached to it? No chance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Yes - nearly as many pipes as an Ivatt. Its as easy to have it all in one piece, especially if it is to be weathered.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 " I still cannot understand how it's taking so long, a mystery." Lightening speed compared to my rate of work (and I have been building on 0 gauge for decades). David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 I'm not going to mention how far "Alcazar" has progressed in the last year........... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 No point in rushing things Jeff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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