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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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You almost fooled me for a moment as I started thinking that maybe one of the more active ingredients could well strip tarnish off brass. Mind you, the Dutch have a "sweet" (IIRC they are called Black & Whites) that I'm sure would strip almost anything.

 

Nick

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You almost fooled me for a moment as I started thinking that maybe one of the more active ingredients could well strip tarnish off brass. Mind you, the Dutch have a "sweet" (IIRC they are called Black & Whites) that I'm sure would strip almost anything.

 

Nick

 

 

The above post has been placed in the wrong thread!!!!!

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Hi jeff.  A really beautiful model, many thanks for posting it. I hope by build will look as good.

 

Tell me,  reading the prebuild notes, Dave mentions if you intend to run the model on track of less that 6' radius, build the chassis without compensation (or make certain changes to the wheels)

 

What is your take on your models performance with the compensation please and it's ability to negotiate curves?

 

I have to say, it's encouraging to note it's an easy build and goes together well. I had hoped it would as all the Scorpio range I had build does.

Hi Ken,

I guess the design and construction method will be very similar to the Duke on the loco. Sound like it has the same set up for the firebox with an inner etched "skeleton" around which the firebox wrappers are fixed. It went together pretty well as did the rest of the loco.

 

The tender you will be familiar with,as it is the same etches as the Acorn(Jim Harris)Duke, that you built some time ago. As you know that goes together quite easily, but will require a different set up of the bunker bulk heads, and of course will not have the coal pusher. Watch out for the rivet pattern on the side plates. Check what you need for the Crosti tender, as the pattern is somewhat generic and will make 1B,1C, 1D or 1E depending on which rivets you punch out. Some rivets will be superfluous. I found out too late on the Duke and had to make an overlay to correct one side. Whatever you do the rivet pattern will not be 100% correct as I believe the spacing is wrong, but overall it will look OK.

 

I look forward to seeing your efforts on this one and that's a great piece of scratch building on the Dean!

Cheers,

Peter

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.......  Mind you, it's still a mystery why John quoted it without further comment :scratchhead:

 

Nick

 

My apologies to all. I was faffing about looking on here with my new android phone and must have pressed the wrong thing!

 

Viewing RMweb on my phone is a new experience for me. Perhaps I shouldn't now after this but I was bored without anything to read!

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No, the quote is from here in this topic when you confused Fishermen and Bar Keepers :nono:  Mind you, it's still a mystery why John quoted it without further comment :scratchhead:

 

Nick

Oh, right, that was a while ago I had forgotten about it.

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Hi Ken,

I guess the design and construction method will be very similar to the Duke on the loco. Sound like it has the same set up for the firebox with an inner etched "skeleton" around which the firebox wrappers are fixed. It went together pretty well as did the rest of the loco.

 

The tender you will be familiar with,as it is the same etches as the Acorn(Jim Harris)Duke, that you built some time ago. As you know that goes together quite easily, but will require a different set up of the bunker bulk heads, and of course will not have the coal pusher. Watch out for the rivet pattern on the side plates. Check what you need for the Crosti tender, as the pattern is somewhat generic and will make 1B,1C, 1D or 1E depending on which rivets you punch out. Some rivets will be superfluous. I found out too late on the Duke and had to make an overlay to correct one side. Whatever you do the rivet pattern will not be 100% correct as I believe the spacing is wrong, but overall it will look OK.

 

I look forward to seeing your efforts on this one and that's a great piece of scratch building on the Dean!

Cheers,

Peter

Thanks Peter. I had noticed the tender has Acorn etched on.  I agree, the rivet detail etching is not too good.

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Hi all.  A start has now been made on construction of the Crosti 9F.  (Thank you to all who have given input regarding this build)

 

As already pointed out, the tender is actually from the Acorn stable and is not IMHO up to David's standard of kit design. However I have built one of these in the past, so it's a case of finding the page in my post to refresh my memory of the build.

 

Yesterday p.m. was spent perusing the kit and getting my head into the build. Here is the first stage of the build and the result of the first  day at the build. (I doubt I will be at this one every day all day as it's looks like it's one of those kits that are never ending.)

 

This will be one of the builds where I will more or less follow the instructions, that in itself makes the build a much longer process.

 

post-150-0-59152200-1391191717.jpg

Edited by jazz
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Onwards with the Crosti.  The tender has gone well today. Pretty standard stuff really,  some nips and tucks required to get the coal space sides and divider to fit.  The only tricky part was the bending  the tops and bottoms of the sides.  A lot of care is required, taking it very slowly and constant checking before the final 'big' bend.  

 

I used the Metalsmith bending bars and vernier callipers to position each side so the bends were in the exact same place.

 

The chassis was no problem at all.  

 

Here it is so far.

 

post-150-0-07051000-1391277494.jpg

 

post-150-0-58994200-1391277510.jpg

 

post-150-0-90200300-1391277529.jpg

 

 

 

 

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The tender is now completed (just the couplings to add before priming)  Something to watch for, the frames are extremely close to the wheels. So bare that in mind when fitting them.

 

Other than that, it went quite well.  You will notice one of the axle box castings is badly cast. I overcome that problem with body filler and using various dentists burrs, carefully profile the missing areas.   The end result will be undetectable when primed.

 

I will be taking a look at the sharp end tomorrow, starting by sorting out the etches and comparing them to the instructions. I will spend time marking and removing the various parts for the chassis from the etches and preparing them for a soldering session. 

 

post-150-0-80469400-1391364413_thumb.jpg

 

post-150-0-46867900-1391364388_thumb.jpg

Edited by jazz
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Made a start on construction yesterday. No problems so far. I think the compensation arrangement will work OK. I have left a lot of side play even though the model will not be expected to negotiate less than 6' radius. So all should be good.

 

I am not too pleased that the Delrin drive motor/gearbox will be mounted on a compensated axle though. That is not my personal preference.

 

post-150-0-80306300-1391590083_thumb.jpg

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Hello Ken, excellent work as always. I had the same issue with the Seven Duke driving on the rear axle which is designed to be beam compensated with the middle axle. Although the chassis ran perfectly without the motor, I was not happy with the running after I put in the ABC gearbox. In the end I soldered up the rear bearings to be fixed, and then cut the beam to leave the middle axle floating. Then it was OK. I trust you do not have the same problem as the compensation on the 9F is more complex, and I don't think you will have the simple option that was available to me.

Cheers, Peter.

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Guest Isambarduk

I have built locos with the gearbox on compensated axles and on sprung axles.  It's fine.  After all, nose-hung motors are used on the sprung axles of the prototype so that should be good enough for us :-)

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