Darwinian Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 The E131/D98 sets I am modelling had standard drawgear. Like coachmann I expected them to have the jumper cables but cannot see them on the pictures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted March 22, 2018 Author Share Posted March 22, 2018 Just had another look at the picture in Warwickshire railways referred to by Miss P and the jumper cable is clearly visible on the brake end. That will do for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 Oh bother! I've just also noticed that that photo shows that the end step handrails go across as far as the inner edge of the steps. I made mine only reach to the outer edges , thought they looked a bit far apart on the roof. I'll have to do them again now, hope I have enough 0.45mm wire left . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 I don't like doing the curly grab rails on the ends of GWR coaches, never quite get the pair to be perfect mirror images. However here's what I have managed and with the jumper cables too. For the latter I just filed off the locating pip on the back, that fits into a hole in the comet coach ends, and then superglued them in position making sure everything was clean first using a fibreglass pen. I'm thinking I'll give them a blast of etch primer next to see what needs to be cleaned up or fettled. The roof of the right hand coach is fitted a bit too far to this end, it doesn't have to overhang quite that much, honest. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 I don't like doing the curly grab rails on the ends of GWR coaches, never quite get the pair to be perfect mirror images. However here's what I have managed and with the jumper cables too. For the latter I just filed off the locating pip on the back, that fits into a hole in the comet coach ends, and then superglued them in position making sure everything was clean first using a fibreglass pen. Too true! I have spent and hour before now just bending up four decent looking handrails on GWR coaches. Your two coaches are really well detailed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
88D Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 I don't like doing the curly grab rails on the ends of GWR coaches, never quite get the pair to be perfect mirror images. However here's what I have managed and with the jumper cables too. For the latter I just filed off the locating pip on the back, that fits into a hole in the comet coach ends, and then superglued them in position making sure everything was clean first using a fibreglass pen. I'm thinking I'll give them a blast of etch primer next to see what needs to be cleaned up or fettled. The roof of the right hand coach is fitted a bit too far to this end, it doesn't have to overhang quite that much, honest. D set van ends done.jpg I’d be happy to match your efforts on the hand rails. Do you use a jig or do it by eye? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovex Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 (edited) Great work. I just you would hurry up and finish them so Hornby can announce their range of GWR Non corridor stock Edited March 27, 2018 by rovex Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 I’d be happy to match your efforts on the hand rails. Do you use a jig or do it by eye? Rather depends what you consider a jig. The top loop was formed around a small drill bit that was clamped in a vice. Wire persuaded around with pliers. Then the set put in and the 90 degree bend below the loop. The curved bit was worked around any circular object of smaller radius and held up against the end of the van to judge the line. The bottom bend to fit into a hole in the coach end was made last. Then bend another to match using the first as a guide. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Rather depends what you consider a jig. The top loop was formed around a small drill bit that was clamped in a vice. Wire persuaded around with pliers. Then the set put in and the 90 degree bend below the loop. The curved bit was worked around any circular object of smaller radius and held up against the end of the van to judge the line. The bottom bend to fit into a hole in the coach end was made last. Then bend another to match using the first as a guide. Get a pair of tapered round nose pliers. The outer edge can be marked so that you bend the wire about the same place and get constant diameter loops. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 So the saga continues. All coaches have been primed with Halfords rattle can etching primer (other makes available no doubt). Then when I went to reassemble them I realised I'd not checked the clearance between the bogies and the brake rod safety hangers, beacuse the bogies would not fit. Out with the soldering iron and move the offending hangers inboard. One thing this did demonstrate was how much better the etch primer sticks to brass than the standard primer, it took a bit of scraping with a blunt instrumnet to clear a patch of brass to re-attach the hangers. I have plonked the subassemblies together and taken a few pictures ( might have overdone the image size reduction a bit as I cropped these too). I realised when I looked at these that i put the body of one of the composites the wrong way around. Anyway this is where I've got to. My plan is to add the lower sections of the side lamp irons in microstrip and then stick some Archer rivets on these and the end step fixings. There is some tidying up to be done on the rooves too. The bogies will need a blast of standard primer from below as I masked them off and only sprayed from above and side on as I was concerned the etch-primer might damage the plastic wheel centres. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
88D Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Rather depends what you consider a jig. The top loop was formed around a small drill bit that was clamped in a vice. Wire persuaded around with pliers. Then the set put in and the 90 degree bend below the loop. The curved bit was worked around any circular object of smaller radius and held up against the end of the van to judge the line. The bottom bend to fit into a hole in the coach end was made last. Then bend another to match using the first as a guide. Thanks to you and Coachman for the tips. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 After some fun and games getting the GWR coach brown right and getting used to using acrylics instead of enamels in my air brush I have managed to put on reasonable base colours. The bogies and underframes are Halfords rattle can satin black. The paint chips are because I dropped the box with them in, fortunately only minor damage occurred and I'll touch up the paintwork. The bodies are painted using Vallejo Air paints. I used the base colours set and mixed my own colours. This is made much easier as the paints are in dropper bottles so once the right mixture of drops is achieved it can be repeated and the volume scaled up and down as needed. Bodies, roofs and underframes are just rested together for their photo to be taken. There is some paint creep under the masking that needs to be removed/touched up, single black line added and the droplights need painting. Then I can varnish them (the finish is matt) and start applying transfers and all those luverly G- handles 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted June 7, 2018 Author Share Posted June 7, 2018 I decided to put a simple black line between the brown and cream. Whether this is prototical seems to be debated as it is rarely clear in photos. Anyway I invested £4 in a 0.5mm drawing pen with permanent ink. I reckon the line I got is around 0.3mm. Prototipically once dried it is hardly visible, at least I know it is there Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 (edited) Help may not be needed here. I have found that I have used all the "Guard" and "Luggage" lettering on my HMRS transfer sheets. Does anyone else make transfers for these? I've looked online at Fox, Cambridge Custom and Modelmaster to no avail. The HMRS sheets are £20 which is a bit of a pill to swallow when I've got plenty of everything else left on the sheets I have. Edit: Have just found that railtec do them and the smoking /no smoking transfers I had and have been looking for. Edited June 8, 2018 by Darwinian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 There will now be a pause in construction as both Railtec and HMRS GWr coach transfers are out of stock Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railtec-models Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 There will now be a pause in construction as both Railtec and HMRS GWr coach transfers are out of stock Which specific pack number are you looking at? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 Pack 4206 preBR GWR coach numbers and branding. Also need a 4207 smoking/ no smoking window labels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railtec-models Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 Pack 4206 preBR GWR coach numbers and branding. Also need a 4207 smoking/ no smoking window labels. Thanks. Re-stock of pack 4206 is now on the front-burner after a lengthy absence. I anticipate it being available (all being well) within the next week or so. If you haven't already done so then you can take advantage of the "Request It" feature on the product page which becomes visible if an item is out of stock. Simply click on it, enter your email address and you automatically get sent a link as soon as it's back in stock. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penrhos1920 Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 After some fun and games getting the GWR coach brown right and getting used to using acrylics instead of enamels in my air brush I have managed to put on reasonable base colours....... The bodies are painted using Vallejo Air paints. I used the base colours set and mixed my own colours. This is made much easier as the paints are in dropper bottles so once the right mixture of drops is achieved it can be repeated and the volume scaled up and down as needed. Bodies, roofs and underframes are just rested together for their photo to be taken. D-set base colour 2.JPG D-set base colours 4.JPG What Vallejo colours have you used and what are the ratios? I fancy trying them. Did you use Vallejo primer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 Thanks. Re-stock of pack 4206 is now on the front-burner after a lengthy absence. I anticipate it being available (all being well) within the next week or so. If you haven't already done so then you can take advantage of the "Request It" feature on the product page which becomes visible if an item is out of stock. Simply click on it, enter your email address and you automatically get sent a link as soon as it's back in stock. Thanks. Thanks I did register my e-mail so will order as soon as they are ready. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 What Vallejo colours have you used and what are the ratios? I fancy trying them. Did you use Vallejo primer? If people are interested I can try to put up the Excel spreadsheet I’ve recorded the mixes on. I have only used the starter set of “model air” colours. I used Halfords etch primer for all metal work and ordinary primer for the interiors. Satin black Halfords rattle cans for the underframes. One thing I have learnt is that the airbrush must not be allowed to run dry of paint as the residues will quickly dry in the airbrush blocking it. There are lots of video tutorials on you tube by military modellers on using Vallejo paints with an airbrush. Mikel of this parish also had some techniques using the standard paints. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted June 23, 2018 Author Share Posted June 23, 2018 The picture in Russel shows E131 Number 6237 in the “ plain Jane” with Garter crest livery. Does anyone know which other E131 and D98s would have made up this set? I am assuming the set would all carry the same livery and that this was an early one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted June 23, 2018 Share Posted June 23, 2018 It was Birmingham set 40 with C 6242 and BTs 4951 and 4952. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Thanks Chris, I’ll invoke rule 1 for it appearing in S. Wales! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penrhos1920 Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 If people are interested I can try to put up the Excel spreadsheet I’ve recorded the mixes on. I have only used the starter set of “model air” colours. Yes please Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now