RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted February 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2018 From here, it looks good. For my tastes, I'd been needing to take the shine off the handrails, etc. Time for the piggy bank to make an involuntary donation, methinks.... Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted February 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2018 We went round all this last summer both on this thread and your workbench thread, Mikkel. I had homed in on 2390 for various reasons, though possibly at that point there wasn't clarity on the footplate width of the Oxford model; Edwardian had given the boiler change dates for this engine. My desideratum is a Wolverhampton-shedded engine with S2 boiler, c. 1902. But, I don't think fluted v. plain con rods had been taken into account. I really must download all the info from these two threads to build my own reference file! Ah right, I forgot that you had already chosen a prototype. At the current discounts I'm also tempted to get one and do an S2 version. But I had better finish the other one first! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) Quickie improvements.....Snap off the splashers and reduce in height. Also remove rivet detail, then glue back with Loctite. Deal with the cabside 'splasher' as you will. Paint handrails....Job done. If anyone is modeling the last survivor, which has the larger cab cut out, dont forget the front lamp brackets are mounted on the sandboxes, not the bufferbeam. Edited February 17, 2018 by coachmann 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Quickie improvements.....Snap off the splashers and reduce in height. Also remove rivet detail, then glue back with Loctite. Deal with the cabside 'splasher' as you will. Paint handrails....Job done. If anyone is modeling the last survivor, which has the larger cab cut out, dont forget the front lamp brackets are mounted on the sandboxes, not the bufferbeam. If you mean 2538 then you need to start with the lined green one (as I did). For 2516 start with the locomotion version and save renumbering (getting the moulded plates off without losing the rivets is tricky!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) If you mean 2538 then you need to start with the lined green one (as I did). For 2516 start with the locomotion version and save renumbering (getting the moulded plates off without losing the rivets is tricky!). I thought I had seen adverts showing the GWR liveried plain green one with large cabside cut-out. Edited February 17, 2018 by coachmann Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted February 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2018 Just got my shipping notification! Has anyone shown the dcc socket? Or any chip settings? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted February 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2018 I'm still waiting. My supplier doesn't seem to have had any yet. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 (edited) I thought I had seen adverts showing the GWR liveried plain green one with large cabside cut-out. No, the new releases have all had the new corrected cabs. Only the lined green one carries the 'wrong' cab, so if you want one of the minority of locos that had that shape (like 2538), better get it quick! Edited February 19, 2018 by Quarryscapes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian777999 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) It's arrived, I'm happy with mine IMG_3755.JPG IMG_3757.JPG So that livery is correct (or almost) for which years ? I am sorry if this has been covered before. Edited February 19, 2018 by brian777999 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted February 19, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 19, 2018 So that livery is correct (or almost) for which years ? I am sorry if this has been covered before. About 1922-1934 although second link locos wouldn't get livery changes immediately I have a nice colour photo in a book of GWR 4-4-0 on the eve of WWII with that livery and in very clean condition. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john dew Posted February 19, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2018 About 1922-1934 although second link locos wouldn't get livery changes immediately I have a nice colour photo in a book of GWR 4-4-0 on the eve of WWII with that livery and in very clean condition. Keith Hi Keith Mine is on its way from Liverpool. You may recall that, some time ago, you helped me select a suitable number 2449 (Oswestry 1946)..........2475 didnt come back from France in 1940. Any idea about the livery for 1948? Right now my plan is to leave it as Great Western unless I can find a photo that proves otherwise. Best wishes John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Hi Keith Mine is on its way from Liverpool. You may recall that, some time ago, you helped me select a suitable number 2449 (Oswestry 1946)..........2475 didnt come back from France in 1940. Any idea about the livery for 1948? Right now my plan is to leave it as Great Western unless I can find a photo that proves otherwise. Best wishes John Yes that livery is fine...but it's on a 3000g tender! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted February 19, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) Hi Keith Mine is on its way from Liverpool. You may recall that, some time ago, you helped me select a suitable number 2449 (Oswestry 1946)..........2475 didnt come back from France in 1940. Any idea about the livery for 1948? Right now my plan is to leave it as Great Western unless I can find a photo that proves otherwise. Best wishes John WWII and just after are dificult. Officially the logo changed from shirtbutton, which started in 1934 to plan "GWR" in 1942 so that should be on the tender but lack of repaints during war conditions and many locos getting all black livery mean photographs are really needed to get it right. BR plain black was the norm from nationalisation although at least one, 2579, was lined out. (I'm still waiting for my pre-ordered 2475, my modelling period 'officially' ends at 1939) Cheers Keith Just heard, mine's in stock and will be sent once I've payed the balance Edited February 19, 2018 by melmerby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
County of Yorkshire Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Hi Keith Mine is on its way from Liverpool. You may recall that, some time ago, you helped me select a suitable number 2449 (Oswestry 1946)..........2475 didnt come back from France in 1940. Any idea about the livery for 1948? Right now my plan is to leave it as Great Western unless I can find a photo that proves otherwise. Best wishes John John, This image from Colour Rail seems to surface quite often. It's 2460 in G-W-R Green at Severn Tunnel Junction in May 1947. CoY 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john dew Posted February 19, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2018 Yes that livery is fine...but it's on a 3000g tender! Thanks guys ....it's sounding as though the "correct" livery for 1948 is conveniently uncertain! Is a 3000g tender incorrect for post war......or do I need to modify the filler caps as demonstrated in your thread? Kind regards John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted February 19, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 19, 2018 Three Dean's at Tyseley in the '30s Not the variations in firebox patch, tender size, reversing rod. http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/tyseley/shed/gwrt312.jpg http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/tyseley/shed/gwrt313.jpg http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/tyseley/shed/gwrt325.jpg Keith 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted February 19, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2018 I do like the photo of 2477 outside the factory at Tysley, especially the GW roundel. Any idea of the approximate age? Cheers, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amdaley Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 I do like the photo of 2477 outside the factory at Tysley, especially the GW roundel. Any idea of the approximate age? Cheers, Ian. June 1937. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted February 20, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 20, 2018 (edited) I do like the photo of 2477 outside the factory at Tysley, especially the GW roundel. Any idea of the approximate age? Cheers, Ian. As Tony says June 1937. If you go to the Warwickshire Railways site there are plenty of photos, usually captioned with when photo was taken and other relevant information.. http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/ Keith Edited February 20, 2018 by melmerby 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amdaley Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 Have to say the plain green model looks a lot better than the first effort. Unfortunately its still riddled with mistakes but I guess most modellers won't worry about that. Disappointed with Oxfords effort on the Deans Goods but I suppose it was made to a price & when you do that something has to suffer. A bit more research could have made this a very fine model but then it might have cost a lot more I'm sure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted February 20, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 20, 2018 My just arrived via Royal Mail... Have to agree with Tony, much better effort, few issues, but none that really bother me. It's currently pottering around my test loop before I'll drop in a DCC chip and see what fun that will bring. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coppercap Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Having received my unlined green 2475 yesterday, and now comparing it with the previous lined green 2309, it's quite apparent that the earlier issue of the washout plugs being in line with the handrails has actually been resolved by lowering the level of the handrails, and not by retooling the washout plugs in a higher position . This is apparent when looking head-on at the smokebox - the curve of the handrails clearly comes down just that little bit further on the plain green model. (Now to get the green paint out...!) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerJohn Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Are the small parts supposed to come in a small ziplock placcy bag or a heat sealed one like Hornby? ta Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Having got my 2475 a couple of things to note: 1) if going for a direct fit decoder the narrow tender width will limit choice, the one I had to hand an oldish DCC concepts one was too long so ended up getting a decoder with a harness 2) On mine the screws retaining the tender top were a pig to unscrew and before I knew it I had knacked the screw heads and ended up drilling them out. The tender top still is secure. This may not be a common thing and just my ineptitude! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonMW Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Are the small parts supposed to come in a small ziplock placcy bag or a heat sealed one like Hornby? ta My NRM Locomotion Oxford Dean Goods came with the bits in a ziplock bag. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now