Mr Grumpy Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 Just painted one of these in lined BR green, lovely little model, Only one little tip as far as I was concerned was ro leave the little lamp brackets beside the left hand splasher off until after painting if you are going for a lined loco as they get in the way of the pen and make the job a bit awkward. Hi Warren, Love to see a photo of the 14xx. Must look pretty special! I'm almost certain mine will be grubby black! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dan Randall Posted March 23, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2016 Just painted one of these in lined BR green, lovely little model, Only one little tip as far as I was concerned was ro leave the little lamp brackets beside the left hand splasher off until after painting if you are going for a lined loco as they get in the way of the pen and make the job a bit awkward. Any pictures please Warren? Regards Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren haywood Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Unfortunately I didn't take any of it, just another BR lined green one and I have loads of pictures of that livery. I will email the owner and see if he can take a couple of shots. Martyn, if you think that anything on the model will Make the painting easier than leave it off or make it removable, springs infront of splashers and rear pipe stands at back of tender are the most obvious ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 25, 2016 Author Share Posted March 25, 2016 Made the most of the fine weather and got the doggie sprayed. The inside of the hopper is bright steel, but looks a tad metallic light grey. It won't be seen under the weathering though! Once the transfers are applied I can get it weathered. So for now the bench is clear, and I have started to cut some parts for the 14xx. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Siddall Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) Cracking Dogfish Mr G, a very good job very well done. Cheers Andy Edited March 26, 2016 by Andy Siddall Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share Posted March 26, 2016 Cracking Dogfish Mr G, a very good job very well done. Cheers Andy Thanks Andy! Much appreciated. It is a very nice kit to build. Thanks also to Mark J for kindly sending me a couple of pairs of self contained buffers and axle boxes! The buffers really give the wagon a more rugged appearance. I'm looking forward to building a catfish later on. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold markjj Posted March 26, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26, 2016 You are Welcome Mr Grumpy. You have done the parts proud and made an amazing job of the Dogfish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share Posted March 26, 2016 You are Welcome Mr Grumpy. You have done the parts proud and made an amazing job of the Dogfish. Thanks Mark, You have also been very generous with your advice and time! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) As this is my first 0 gauge steam loco, I will probably not stray too far from the instructions, so I have started with the rocking rear axle box. My first encounter with MOK kits was back in the 80s when I built their 08 shunter in 4mm scale. The inside of the loco looked like a porcupine due to the slot and tab construction. Looked great from the outside though! So, the 7mm kits have the slot and tab aid to construction, although they are generally snipped off and dressed back once soldering is complete. While making up the two components for the axle box, it was really satisfying to hear a click as they are folded and the tabs enter the slots. It is then possible to check everything is square before soldering. I will have to watch the solder, as it is not so easy to see it flash along a joint as with brass. On the other hand, N/S is great to work with. Before opening the etching packs, I did notice the warning stating edges are sharp. Still cut my fingers, N/S does seem to have a sharper edge. Due to my inexperience with folding and shaping metal in this scale, prior to purchasing the kit I had a chat with David Sharp, and he gave me a couple of pointers to take extra care with: Folding the cab above the doorway/window. Shaping the bunker, although brass castings are provided for the corners. Still, this may be a little way off yet! Just noticed one edge needs to be tucked in slightly. Isn't photography great! Edited March 26, 2016 by Mr Grumpy 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share Posted March 26, 2016 ........Thats better 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Nice start. I have built a couple of 14xx but nothing as nice as the MOK one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 I have got the rear axle box section complete (apart from buffers etc, which comes later). I can see why people love these kits. The steps were a dream to build and my wife has told me to slow down as I can't afford another kit too soon!! Due to the wonders of photography, I have spotted a little blob of solder on the top of the leaf spring, so will attend to this later. Now on to the chassis..... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 I got the horn guides and rocking beams made up earlier. As cut out (Sorry rocking beams not shown, but look very much the same when soldered together. Basically the long parts at the top are folded and inserted in to the grooves on the plates below. Care is needed not to join the wrong parts together on the front guides, also solder must not get in the slot for the horn block. I also made up the ash pan assembly. The tabs which are used to join the assembly to the chassis can be clearly seen. This whole assembly went together without a drop of solder and was nice and rigid. All soldered now and excess tabs removed. (The part at the bottom is soldered when in the chassis.) So far everything has been very straight forward and really is very nice to build. I will order the motor from ABC and wheels from Slaters tomorrow. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold markjj Posted March 28, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2016 Looking good Mr Grumpy.. You will be finished by the end of the week at this rate. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 Looking good Mr Grumpy.. You will be finished by the end of the week at this rate. I can't afford to be finished that quick!! I need to re balance the modelling bank first! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 It's going to be a busy morning....... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) I got the horn guides and rocking beams made up earlier. As cut out (Sorry rocking beams not shown, but look very much the same when soldered together. IMG_3310.jpeg Basically the long parts at the top are folded and inserted in to the grooves on the plates below. Care is needed not to join the wrong parts together on the front guides, also solder must not get in the slot for the horn block. IMG_3314.jpeg I also made up the ash pan assembly. The tabs which are used to join the assembly to the chassis can be clearly seen. This whole assembly went together without a drop of solder and was nice and rigid. All soldered now and excess tabs removed. (The part at the bottom is soldered when in the chassis.) IMG_3319.jpeg So far everything has been very straight forward and really is very nice to build. I will order the motor from ABC and wheels from Slaters tomorrow. Very useful post as I need to make an ashpan for my Shephard 74xx given the kit doesn't have one http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95593-warren-shephard-7412/page-4. I have no doubts the general outline is the same as the 48xx Edited March 29, 2016 by LaScala Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold markjj Posted March 29, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 29, 2016 Very useful post as I need to make an ashpan for my Shephard 74xx given the kit doesn't have one http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95593-warren-shephard-7412/page-4. I have no doubts the general outline is the same as the 48xx The 14xx and 48xx are both the same beast I believe they became re-numbered when they changed the 2-8-0s during oil firing trials but I stand corrected if anyone knows better. Mark J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 Also the 20 strong 58xx class was similar to the 14/48xx but without auto coach gear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 I'm aware the 48/58xx preceded the 14xx numbering and that they are one and the same. My point was that the 54/64/74xx had a similar size boiler albeit with longer firebox and the 48xx & 54xx were just two years apart in introduction hence ashpan would be almost identical except in length. There's a case for saying the 54xx was the six coupled version of the 48xx as they share many similarities. Provision of ashpan a reason for buying MOK as opposed to Warren Shephard. Both do 48/54/64/74xx kits but one hundred notes separate them. I still have to build the ashpan though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold markjj Posted March 30, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2016 (edited) Provision of ashpan a reason for buying MOK as opposed to Warren Shephard. Both do 48/54/64/74xx kits but one hundred notes separate them. I still have to build the ashpan though. for that extra hundred notes I don't think you have to buy or add anything....Both kits make lovely models but I know which I would buy.... Edited March 30, 2016 by markjj Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 for that extra hundred notes I don't think you have to buy or add anything.... Both kits make lovely models but I know which I would buy.... The jury is evenly divided I think. It amused me to learn MOK state hardest part is shaping bunker and cab roof. Agree with that in relation to Shephard. Very tricky. The price difference is chewed up quite a bit by adding Slaters hornblocks and a set of Griffin cab castings to Warren's kit. Similar things have been said about Scorpio's offerings which definitely benefit from Warren's superior castings (refer PAD & Jazz in reference to 61xx & 97xx) this year. Happily this is not stressful rescue territory, bashing a 40yo Gateneal into shape for example, more careful upgrading. Much to be said for a genuinely complete and consistent kit though. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 30, 2016 Author Share Posted March 30, 2016 The chassis is coming on and everything went together perfectly. This is the chassis prior to folding with the rocking bars and horn block guides fitted: The chassis folds easily, but care was taken to ensure it is square and parallel. The rear axle box assembly has just been placed to show the slot and tabs. I will fit the brake cylinder to the rear stretcher before fitting, as I think it may be easier to gain access for soldering. Slaters wheels and ABC mini 7s and Maxon 4W motor all on order. Not sure about sound at present, but plenty of time to think it through. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold markjj Posted March 30, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2016 Excellent work Mr Grumpy... Sound isn't an option these days it's compulsory... ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 31, 2016 Author Share Posted March 31, 2016 Excellent work Mr Grumpy... Sound isn't an option these days it's compulsory... ;-) Are you in a heavy metal band I have decided to make the brakes and linkage removable for painting and maintenance. I don't have any taps and dies, so will solder a 14ba nut to the rear of the brackets (Circled) and the brackets that attach to the middle steps. Also I have added a photo of the rear stretcher, which I managed to solder up side down Once the tabs have been twisted, soldered and cut back it is near on impossible to remove the item. believe me I tried! My fault I'm afraid! It won't really notice but annoys me as I know it's there! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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