Waveydavey Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Have you got the width of the front connecting doors on a 24? P Sorry Porcy, I've not got near a 24 yet. Resolving the age old question of the height of class 24 windows is near the top of my list of things to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Wow ,great work ! It never ceases to maze me the lengths some go to get their models spot on ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Sorry Porcy, I've not got near a 24 yet. Resolving the age old question of the height of class 24 windows is near the top of my list of things to do. No probs. I'll pass the dimensions on if I get to do it before you. Don't forget the included angle at the bottom front of the side screen. That should settle a few arguments. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted January 9, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2016 This thread should be compulsory reading for the "diesels are boxes on wheels" merchants. Mark 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 13, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) While I’m waiting for the new grills to be etched I’ve been carrying on with detailing (some might say destroying) the body.I somehow couldn’t be bothered messing about with bits of tubing to make the marker lights so I decided to try and make use of the Bachmann ones. These were roughly chopped out with cutters and then trimmed a bit with the scalpel. I then mounted each one on a 14BA screw with a couple of locking nuts and, holding them in a collet, gently turned them down on my mini drill. Because I had already drilled and filled the old lights, through lack of forward planning, I had to ‘drift’ these holes about one and a half millimetres higher with a round needle file. The resulting gaps will be filled with putty. I have come to the conclusion that to rectify the cab side windows by opening them out, filling them in and then cutting out new windows, is too much work and probably doomed to failure in my hands. I have made things easier for myself (yes really!) by cutting out the whole cab sides. I can then cut out new windows from fresh styrene sheet, which will give me the chance of making more than one attempt at getting them right. With the windows done I can then cut and sand the sides to fit and I will only have to blend in the front curve. You will also notice that I have been attacking the roof again because neither the Hornby, nor the Bachmann, roof was quite right in that area. David Edited April 11, 2022 by Kylestrome 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CloggyDog Posted January 13, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13, 2016 Neat idea on the tail lamps. Must dig out the stash of Bachmann bodies from their crate and start cannibalising the various useable bits. How about opening the BIS hatch and modelling the internal gubbins?? It was a pretty common sight for the cover to be hanging down (or even missing!) I've done that on one of my Bachby hybrids, along with tablet recesses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 25, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) Nothing is being wasted in this project. In a ‘light bulb moment’ I realized that I could recycle some of the Hornby scrap plastic to rebuild the cab sides by turning it ‘inside out’. This has two advantages: It’s the right thickness, and it’s the right colour. I have made a jig for the window shape and position based on the Bachmann door window, which lacks about a millimetre in height. The resulting window shape is correct, but is reduced slightly in size to match the door window. This is a compromise but, to me, an acceptable one. Using this jig the windows were marked and cut out, leaving plenty of surrounding material, and then the sides were shaped and fitted. Lots of kit-bashing fun! I still have a bit of cleaning up to do but I think I’m slowly getting there. Here I'm using the jig to mark out the cab window Here compared with a Hornby cab Edited April 11, 2022 by Kylestrome 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) David, Good work. That's a natty looking marking-out square! Where did you get this, pray? Edited January 26, 2016 by Phil Copleston Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 26, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) David, Good work. That's a natty looking marking-out square! Where did you get this, pray? Thanks, Phil. The square is rather cute, isn't it. I bought it on a stand at the Intermodellbau, some time ago, but I don't know the name of the supplier. David Edited February 24, 2017 by Kylestrome Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Are you going to market these? That's unlikely, unless I get absolutely deluged with requests..... *cue deluge of requests* ....If you've read Karl Crowther's article on doing a 25/3 in a recent MRJ .... Up to this point I actually thought Kylestrome was Karl Crowther in disguise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Detailing bits and clever jigs... Hmmmmmmmm, one is onto something matey... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) Thanks, Phil. The square is rather cute, isn't it. I bought it on a stand at the Intermodellbau, some time ago, but I don't know the name of the supplier. David, Ahhh yes very cute. Thanks - that was the clue I needed (that you bought it in Germany). So I searched Google images for 'Präzision Werkstatt-Winkel' (Precision Workshop Squares) and may have found a source for this tool - Messwelt: https://www.messwelt.com Of those natty marking-squares, they offer: Tiny 25 x 20mm and Small 40 x 28mm squares: https://www.messwelt.com/winkel-praezision/schnittmacherwinkel/1153/schnittmacherwinkel-din-875/00-aus-rostfreiem-stahl at 13.92 euros for the pair (£10.52). Medium 75 x 50mm square: https://www.messwelt.com/winkel-praezision/haarwinkel-din-87500-inox-flach/1566/praezisions-haarwinkel-din-875/00 at 14.50 euros each (£10.95). Large 100 x 70mm square: https://www.messwelt.com/winkel-praezision/haarwinkel-din-87500-inox-flach/1567/praezisions-haarwinkel-din-875/00 at17.40 euros each (£13.14). All very reasonable prices for precision tools. Total cost for all four, including VAT and postage to the UK = 74.17 euros (£56.03). Super. Lots of other nice quality stuff on their website too. Oh, and they take PayPal. I shall order some! Edited January 27, 2016 by Phil Copleston 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drgj Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 All excellent work. That is a good idea to make new cab sides as it took me ages to move the side windows back on my 24 and 25/3 and then to flush glaze them. dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernBlue80s Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Loving the detail going into this ultimate rat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 15, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) Well, it's been nearly a year since I last posted on this thread, so it's about time I made some more progress on this loco. I haven't been idle but I do have rather too many projects on the go at the same time – sound familiar? The body is at the painting stage and has had a first coat of grey primer. This has shown up a few rough areas that need a bit more filling and smoothing down. I also found out that there should be another triangular shaped panel on this side of the loco, and this has been scribed on since this photo was taken. David Edited April 11, 2022 by Kylestrome 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peak experience Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 That looks excellent. What are you using to scribe the triangular panels. Are you using a template to scribe around? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 17, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) What are you using to scribe the triangular panels. Are you using a template to scribe around? No, nothing so sophisticated, just a carefully measured pencil line and then a straight edge and scriber. David Edited February 24, 2017 by Kylestrome Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lekkie lad Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Now if you could just commission Phil Sutton to use your Rat body (or him to pay you to use it!) for his next top class offering, I think it'd be a winner. Ian S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signaller69 Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Super work on your 25, I did a lot of work to make a headcode box fitted 24/1 using a Bachmann 25 bodyshell (only because I had it to hand), I'm quite happy with it but its not in the same league as your inspirational work to be honest! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 17, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) Now if you could just commission Phil Sutton to use your Rat body (or him to pay you to use it!) for his next top class offering, I think it'd be a winner. Ian S I think that his CAD designs are a somewhat more accurate than my bodgings, but thanks anyway! This body is very much a compromise and only an attempt to make something reasonable from two flawed models. David Edited February 24, 2017 by Kylestrome Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Well, it's been nearly a year since I last posted on this thread, so it's about time I made some more progress on this loco. I haven't been idle but I do have rather too many projects on the go at the same time – sound familiar? The body is at the painting stage and has had a first coat of grey primer. This has shown up a few rough areas that need a bit more filling and smoothing down. I also found out that there should be another triangular shaped panel on this side of the loco, and this has been scribed on since this photo was taken. Class-25-body-in-grey.jpg Great looking model. What brand of primer do you use? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 17, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) Humbrol enamal No.1, not that I'd actually recommend it! It doesn't cover very well and ended up being a bit rough, as you can probably see in the photo. I've had to smooth it down quite a bit.For the actual colours I'll be using Revell SM310 Lufhansa Yellow and Railmatch Rail Blue (both enamels). David Edited February 24, 2017 by Kylestrome Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peak experience Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 No, nothing so sophisticated, just a carefully measured pencil line and then a straight edge and scriber. It's fab work. Would the end curves to the panel be scribed 'freehand' then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 And I thought I was good adding Brassmasters resin headcode boxes to a 24 lol. Excellent work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waveydavey Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Sorry Porcy, I've not got near a 24 yet. Resolving the age old question of the height of class 24 windows is near the top of my list of things to do. Down at Grosmont yesterday on a DMU related matter I was able, with permission, to gain access to 24032 and measure the height of the cab windows. The glass area of the centre window is the same as on a 25 at 345mm maximum high x 690mm wide. The driver and second mans front windows work out at 560mm maximum high x 610mm wide which compares to my previous measurements of a 25 at 625mm maximum height x 615mm wide. So there you have it. Class 24 cab front windows are 65mm shorter in height and a midgies narrower than those on a 25. And, needless to say, I completely forgot to measure the width of the 'nose'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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