RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted January 31, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 31, 2016 Technically, this doesn't really fit the criteria for this thread as it will be BR era and 00 gauge, but it is starting to look a bit like a chassis. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium wagonbasher Posted February 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2016 Technically, this doesn't really fit the criteria for this thread as it will be BR era and 00 gauge, but it is starting to look a bit like a chassis. 2016-01-31_10-46-42.jpg Pannier tank? Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 1, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2016 Pannier tank? Andy Yes - this is the 00 one I'm doing for my Dad; might see if I can get my own EM one to a similar state tonight and build them simultaneously. So far so good. Only issue has been the rivets that took a lot of pressure to push through and aren't as neat as I'd like them to be. Might give them a few turns with a drill before trying to press them through on the next one. No problems getting the frames together straight and square, bit of work to do cleaning up the hornblock guides. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 2, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 Decided it might be a good idea to complete this one before starting on the EM one. Last night I cleaned up the hornblock guides to get them moving freely, added the fixed bearing to the rear axle hole and assembled the coupling rods and gearbox (Comet 38:1). 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 2, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2016 What's the benefit of fitting a new chassis to an rtr body ? Re-gauged to EM I can understand, but is it for cosmetic or operational ( lower gear ratio ) reasons ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 2, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 What's the benefit of fitting a new chassis to an rtr body ? Re-gauged to EM I can understand, but is it for cosmetic or operational ( lower gear ratio ) reasons ?From my perspective, it is purely for the experience and to build up my skills; plus I was asked to - and after all, the customer is always right (even if they aren't paying). I had assumed, until I took the body off that the loco was on an old Mainline style chassis, in which case there probably would be significant benefits in performance. Having lifted the lid, I find it is a newer version, so I do need to check whether Dad gave me the correct donor loco amongst the box of bits he handed over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium wagonbasher Posted February 2, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 I can add a bit here... Compensated chassis will improve the number of wheels on the track at any point in time as it negotiates the track work, More wheels on the track inevitably improves power pick up and traction. A new chassis will enable the provision of higher geared drive and the addition of a fly wheel if Mark chooses. If regauging the wheels the gap between the driving wheels and the chassis will be too big so yes there are some cosmetic benefits. I guess the reasons differ between locomotives and the objectives of the person making the change Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 The Collett cab is the giveaway: Mainline never produced one. My example of the Bachmann pannier runs well (with EM wheels) and with cosmetic overlays gives a nice impression of the relief of ashpan detail and so on. The wheels look better than Romfords too. Even the brake shoes are quite nice, so unless it's a dud (possible), I'd leave well alone. A Mainline on the other hand, I'd re-chassis without a second thought, even in OO. Nevertheless, good luck with it. I must dig out my Terrier and get that chassis working properly. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 2, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 Agree with Andy about the benefits of compensation, but as Adam says, these Bachmann chassis really aren't bad. The EM Jinty that occasionally appears on BCB has a very similar mechanism with Ultrascales and runs very nicely. The thought had crossed my mind that (assuming the Bachmann chassis runs OK) I might re-wheel that one to EM to go under my Mainline pannier body and complete this one with the 00 compensated chassis. Ah, the joys of modelling in three different gauges! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 The Bachmann chassis has a sprung centre axle, as I recall, so compensation is built in - there should be a minimum of 5 wheels on the rail at all times. Mine's happier with a decent train behind it (it's good for 30 odd wagons), but it's a perfectly decent, controllable, shunting machine if the mood takes me that way. If converting one to EM you'll need to replace the brake pull rods but since they're a bit chunky it's probably worthwhile in any event. Adam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I like the simple but effective way you've marked which hornblock goes with what hornguide. I think I might be nicking that idea! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 2, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2016 I like the simple but effective way you've marked which hornblock goes with what hornguide. I think I might be nicking that idea! I couldn't find my green and blue marker pens, otherwise I'd have done each in a different colour Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2016 Loco chassis and soldering tools are 120 miles away, so it's back to plastic wagons for tonight's exciting installment. Here is the Mink C which I started on last week. The roof supplied is very thin; great news in terms of how it will look, but some concerns it will sag on such a long wagon. The answer, some intermediate supports. Preparing the solebars for running gear; I file away the rear of the axle guard until only the axlebox and spring remain. Then open out the hole for the bearing in the rear of the axlebox to allow up and down movement of the sprung bearing. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted February 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2016 What's the benefit of fitting a new chassis to an rtr body ? Re-gauged to EM I can understand, but is it for cosmetic or operational ( lower gear ratio ) reasons ? In my case, I picked up a couple of cheap spare bodies off Ebay (some from the batch of mis-numbered ones) with the intention of butchering them removing the topfeed and needed a chassis so took the opportunity to get a High Level chassis to go under the body that survives surgery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2016 In my case, I picked up a couple of cheap spare bodies off Ebay (some from the batch of mis-numbered ones) with the intention of butchering them removing the topfeed and needed a chassis so took the opportunity to get a High Level chassis to go under the body that survives surgery. Mmm, the High Level option; despite having a Perseverance chassis I've not ruled out the HL route for my EM one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 3, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2016 Accidentally built a diagram 018 open too (another old Kirk kit). Running low on wagon kits; hoping to stock up at Stafford show this weekend. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium wagonbasher Posted February 4, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2016 Accidentally built a diagram 018 open too (another old Kirk kit). 2016-02-03_11-10-59.jpg Running low on wagon kits; hoping to stock up at Stafford show this weekend. Did your mobile modelling kit include that glass? Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 4, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2016 Did your mobile modelling kit include that glass? Andy No, that came from the on site facilities; when travelling the "no beer on weeknights" rule is temporarily suspended. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted February 4, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2016 I built the Ian Kirk Mink about 30 years ago and it languished in a stock box until last year when I re-discovered it and started refurbishing it (repaint and detailing the brake gear). The roof was still flat with no sags, so you will definitely have no problems with sag with those supports in there. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Not necessarily. My version is about the same age and the roof had already distorted when I started building it about 5 years ago. I made a boiling-water-and-plasticard-around-a-suitable-former replacement which had started to uncurl before I'd even finished building the rest of the kit. Mine has Bill Bedford springing and is undoubtedly the most free-running item of rolling stock I have. Too free running, if anything. It can roll away on sidings my spirit level insists are absolutely level! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 4, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2016 Think I'm glad I played it safe on the Mink roof then; I guess a number of factors could affect whether or not it might warp over time. I routinely add one or more internal dividers to help keep vans square, so it wasn't much more effort to shape them so they support the roof. The combination of Bill Bedford's suspension units and a decent amount of weight does make for a nice free running wagon. Checked with Dad regarding the Pannier; he thinks he has an earlier one which is much more needing of a new chassis, so I'll put the Collett cab version back together on its Bachmann chassis. Opportunity arose to buy a couple of wagon kits on my lunch break today; always a pleasure to visit KS Models in Stevenage - can't be many model shops left with such a wide and varied range of stock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 4, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2016 Might be ready to solder the hornblock guides in place, I think... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
44558 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I agree with KS Models its always been a good place. I wish there was more like them around. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 7, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 7, 2016 Hornblock guides tacked in place and compensation beam added: Wheels fitted, rolls along the workbench very nicely. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 8, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2016 Tonight I've added the brakes. That's probably about all I'll get done on this until next week, as I need to get some crank pins. Still, I've plenty of other things to be getting on with. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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