Triang TT Technical advice

[Golden Fleece 30]

I know the 60:1 was tight, it seems they need different centres to the 3/8" of the 30:1 set.  I did file small slots on the mount and thankfully due to the mount I designed once the mesh seems okay I can solder it to the backing plate that wraps around the motor end keeping just two small holes and no slots.

 

Anyone any ideas on the 60:1 centres?

 

Garry

[Il Grifone]

According to Markits price list it's the same as the others (20:1 excepted). I have seen comments in the past about the higher ratios being 'tight' however. I've never used anything higher than 40:1 myself.

 

http://www.markits.com/MARKITS_Price_Guide_2013_09.pdf  (section 9B)

 

 

Possibly the matched sets are worth the extra in this case?

 

David

[NCB]

I know the 60:1 was tight, it seems they need different centres to the 3/8" of the 30:1 set.  I did file small slots on the mount and thankfully due to the mount I designed once the mesh seems okay I can solder it to the backing plate that wraps around the motor end keeping just two small holes and no slots.

 

Anyone any ideas on the 60:1 centres?

 

Garry

 

Looking at the pic of the 30:1 full size, it looks to me as though the worm thread is a bit fat for the gear. Basically, when the two are meshed, you should be able to get hold of the gear and feel a bit of play.

 

What you could try is find a position where the two are at the minimum distance possible, find another position where they just fail to engage, then choose something in between. Something which only just meshes is probably OK.

 

Nigel

[Golden Fleece 30]

I think I may do a slightly elongated version with the chassis kits and then there will be some adjustment.  At last with the backing plate soldered on afterwards it will stay in mesh if the motor is removed. 

 

Basically, when the two are meshed, you should be able to get hold of the gear and feel a bit of play.

 

There is a bit of free play as standard with the 30:1 set but I have some spare gearboxes where I can play around with like the 60:1 set. Although both ratios seemed to be the same, the 30:1 had some play, albeit small, but the 60:1 was too tight for the motor to turn.

 

Garry

Edited June 1, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30

[Golden Fleece 30]

I managed to obtain these 12 Kitmasters knowing that only 2 had been started, which two would it be? Of all of them I was hoping any brakes in the 12 would be unmade but, 2 out of the 12 were brakes and both have their windows in, I would not have minded any others but I was hoping to have a couple more matching brakes for my others as I only have one so far. If I cannot pop the windows out (as they used to do easily in the 60's) I will have to try to brush paint around them. Also in the deal were the J11 and G6 which both require a repaint and an unmade 57xx so still a nice bargain.

 

Garry

[Robert Shrives]

lucky you, there is a jealous button to tick !!!! I have a 57xx made up on a the 3f chassis and runs a dream, just watch out for shorting on the inside of the kit.

 

Just a thought I wonder what a mk2 spoked wheel  3f chassis would have looked like and how much they would fetch !!

 

Cheers

Robert  

[Golden Fleece 30]

Hi Robert, I do admit to being quite lucky recently. I have to also admit I did not see the unmade kit the deal as I was only looking at the G6 and accepted the J11 came with it. At £35 I thought the pair were good value as I would have paid that for the G6 on its own ao when the 57xx arrived it was an even better deal. I do have one made by someone else which is a nice runner. The G6 is a really good runner, smooth and quiet, but the J11 I think needs a good service.

 

Regarding open spoked Jinty chassis, were any produced? I thought I once saw one about 40 years ago but never seen any mention of one so thought it was my imagination. I guess if one appeared it would be more than I would pay for it. As you say it would certainly look good.

 

Garry

[NCB]

Had a shot at a three unmade Kitmasters on Ebay recently, 2 brake thirds and a composite. Would have fitted my requirements nicely. Bid up to £20 but let it go at £21, could see it spiralling, and wasn't sure what a reasonable price would be. Also bid on a Royal Scot and 4 coaches, did spiral and went for around £50. But have just picked up a restaurant car for £5.

 

Nigel

[Golden Fleece 30]

Sorry Nigel, I was the one who got those 3 at £21 which was actually my maximum and saw the Royal Scot but let that go early on thinking it would get high. I have just got another 12 which should be enough now although I could do with a couple more brakes.

 

£5 is a reasonable price so well done.

Garry

Edited June 3, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30

[NCB]

Hi Garry, did wonder if it was you! Anyway, got me used to bidding on Ebay. I had intended to look in just before closing, but unfortunately was sorting out other things that morning and didn't get around to it.

 

Cheers

Nigel

[Robert Shrives]

Hi 

I do not think any made by Triang but given its same side plates in the chassis as the castle then by swapping end spacers you would end up with much the same thing albeit a bit high stepping ! for a shunter.  just a wild thought from the deeper recess of my mind- could you d the same with the large Prairie  tank. 

 

Robert 

[Golden Fleece 30]

Hi Robert,

 

I was talking to someone yesterday who confirmed no spoked small wheels were made by Tri-ang and it was most likely fitted wifh Romfords.

 

The large Prairie was later fitted with the Britannia /Castle spoked wheels and these wheels make a loco considerably more expensive.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

The EMU is practically finished and here it is. The bogies have been fitted with metal wheels and it runs a treat. Due to the thicker glazing which fits nicely under the side lugs the roofs do not clip on as normal so I may resort to fitting some screws in place, time will tell on that. The buffer beams may not be too good but I painted them red before realising very soon into BR days EMU's only had black beams, especially with a yellow warning panel. The destination blind does say YORK as that is what all my layouts are based around. There are two very slightly different centre window styles but as all cutting and filing was done freehand I cannot complain. This unit is a nice shade of green that I like and another different style (4 car) set is now on the horizon although I am on the look out for a DMU motor bogie to power it. Anyone know of a reasonably priced one?

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

A bit of batch production going on here with the Kitmaster coaches. There are 6 more maroon and 2 blood and custard unfinished ones not seen. The blood and custard here has come out nicely although there is some touching up with creep under the tape and me catching the blood trying to get the tape off lol. Because of this I decided to do the 2 more and MAYBE get another couple for this livery. I have cheated and put Y/B/Y lining above and below the windows due to the better clarity than the Y/B lining. All coaches here are slightly darker but shown lighter to see the finish better. It is going to take weeks to do the windows though at approx 2 hours per coach, thankfully I managed to get all the windows out of the 2 brakes. At the moment I am thinking of having some interiors etched as the overall sight through the windows seems to look better with something inside, as per the Restaurant cars. I have just counted up my metal wheels and have enough left for 50 coaches and 51 wagons (or an equivalent combination) so may have to stop buying as I still have 5 Pullmans and a few Tri-ang coaches to re-wheel yet plus a few wagons, these wheels certainly run better on Tri-ang track.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here is one method I have used for re-wheeling the Tri-ang coach bogies. I had some plates etched as the first photo then after folding up photos 2 and 3 the bogie was drilled and tapped. The front tab was to keep the plate against the frame and then screwed to the frame. The wheels were mounted on an axle and dropped in the slots. The two small prongs are used to hold the wheels in by bending over. Only one is used on each mount leaving the other spare in case one is bent up and down a few times and breaks. There will be a video in the not too distant future showing these running. I know they are not as free as pin points but easier to do and better than the Tri-ang version.

 

Garry

[sagaguy]

When i resprayed my Trix coaches,after masking off the waist & cantrail colours after first spraying the the whole side Crimson,having used acrylic car paint,i gave the masking tape edges a coat of acrylic varnish to seal the edges& help to eliminate the cream paint getting under the tape edge.I believe aeromodellers use clear nail varnish for the same reason.

 

                            Ray.

[Golden Fleece 30]

That is an interesting one Ray. I would be worried that the varnish would pull off the paintwork underneath it. One problem maybe is that TT is a fair bit smaller and raised door handles etc are closer together but the masking tape, Tamiya, is still the same thickness. I have masked of a Blue M/N and sprayed the black without one little bit of creep but moulded waist and cantrail lines plus hinges, handles etc all close together was in my opinion the reason on the coaches. For this Blood and Custard livery I did the Sierra Beige first followed by Ford Electric Pearlescent red which is metallic. Sierra Beige is available and I like the shade plus no where local to get any Sahara mixed, and its cheaper as a standard tin off the shelf.

 

With my 00 coaches I did spray the reverse way round but that was due to acrylic (Blood) and enamel (Custard) use but had to use a white primer over the blood to allow the Custard to cover easily.

 

If I do anymore I may look at painting in reverse colours as the mask line will not be over the handles etc but tried to keep away from using light over dark colours.

 

Garry

Edited June 11, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30

[sagaguy]

Hi Garry,i use Pheonix Precision tape from fox transfers,it`s a bit more flexible than Tamiya & you can rub down the edge & door shut lines etc.with a cocktail stick.

 

                       Ray.

[Golden Fleece 30]

Thanks Ray, I need some more numbers from Fox so will order some tape in a day or two. I have a couple more coaches already done in Sierra so it will be interesting to see how they turn out later.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

This loco was sprayed blue then masked off with the Tamiya tape and then sprayed satin black with no obvious creep to the naked eye.  Just waiting for the lining to arrive.  I did try some fox lining but it was not very good, too "flexible" to keep in a straight line so I am going to use some Pressfix as the coaches seem to have come out fine with it.  The only brush work this time is the red buffer beam.

 

So far it is Fox transfers for steam loco numbers and crests, Modelmaster for nameplates and diesel numbers and Pressfix for lining.  Waiting now for the new Modelmaster TT etched plates to appear before I name and number her.

 

Garry

ps the blue is slightly darker than the bottom view shows, as per the top view, but made lighter to see the black/blue edges.

Edited June 11, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30

[APOLLO]

Nice work Garry, I like the coach bogie insert.

 

For varnishing have you tried Johnsons Klear ?. I have had good results with this the couple of times I have used it. There are several threads dedicated to its use on here.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/74874-using-johnsons-klear/

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=42977&start=150

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/33479-johnsons-klear-quick-shine/

 

Brit15

[Golden Fleece 30]

I have read about Johnsons clear and was going to try it but understand it is acrylic and therefore not suitable to put on enamel if it is similar to the usual acrylic paints.  I did read that after a couple of days it was okay but from personal experience after a few years I had the cracking up effect so will not put any acrylic on enamel at anytime, unless I forget what I used.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here is a video of the EMU and Brush Type 4 running, also at the rear is the 22xx as untouched by me as yet. This was the first time the Kitmasters had a run and 1) they do wobble a little as they need some side supports, and 2) the internal frame fitted coaches are not as free as I hoped for, but, I have placed the wheels further out to look at the possibility of using on Peco track. I think this does limit their "free running" ability on the corners. A little more thinking is the order of the day now lol.

 

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

A turned brass disc might be the answer to the bogie "wobble". I turned down a piece of brass to fit in diameter between the wheels and parted off the thickness of the boss and it seems to have cured the wobble. I have only done one coach and yet to try a few out but looks promising, also gives a little extra weight. I am pleased I wired up the machines in the garage yesterday individually rather than using an extension cable to everything and tripping over it lol. Just need a cheap supply of brass now.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

And now for something a little different. In the latter years of steam, Darlington was asked to overhaul/work on some ex LMS locos and this Jinty when done was repainted in one of the ER styles with its number on the tank sides instead of the bunker. It makes a change from the usual and will be a bit of a talking point I guess so I will have to print off the real one to take to shows.  Here is my model 47482 awaiting a smokebox number, coat of satin varnish then she is finished. I have gone against my usual scheme of all crests facing forward but only as this loco was painted like this late on in its carer. I know BR had to change from 2 crests (left and right) to 1 around 1959 by the Heraldic Association but I usually like to see them all face forwards.

 

Garry