Will's 1990ish Projects

[dj_crisp]

1 hour ago, Flood said:

@dj_crispCongratulations, you've cost me just over 90 quid! 😁

 

I'm pleased your posts on here on the mk2d/e/f differences has ultimately helped 🙂

[dj_crisp]

1 hour ago, NickL2008 said:

Inspired me also, I got rid of those awful class 117 couplers and going to try the wiring for each car so they're all independent.

 

Keep up with the posts Will, also interested to see what you've worked on 

 

NL

 

Great stuff... if you need any help on the wiring setup I recorded it in a spreadsheet as I always tend to forget how I do things.

 

Then what we need to come up with is an idea for inter connecting pipes too!

[Flood]

Just completed my first Mk2E today:

 

 

The end of the pressure vent ducting (to the right of the pressure ventilation box) isn't supplied so I fashioned one up. The unit to the right of the MA (far left above) has an additional box underneath which was added in the 2000s so I removed it, I need to add a replacement cable.

 

 

 

The pressure vent ducting/electrical box section (far right above) also has an additional box underneath which was added in the 2000s so I removed that as well.

 

I reckon the gubbins to the left of the fan unit is about 10% too big, height ways and length ways. You can squeeze it in, just. I removed a bit off the back so the bogie could fully turn.

 

@dj_crispCan you please ask the 3D printers to reduce the size of that item by 10% all round? If that is the case I would ask them if I can buy just the replacement part in the smaller size.

[Flood]

Revised units received this morning, reduced by about 10%. I'm so impressed with FK3D's service.

 

I fitted one of the new parts this morning, this afternoon I've been chopping the bogie bosses so I can fit standard Bachmann B4 bogies with friction dampers instead of hydraulic dampers.

 

Everything fits a lot better now:

 

Thanks once again to both Will and FK3D for making these parts available.

[dj_crisp]

5 hours ago, Flood said:

Revised units received this morning, reduced by about 10%. I'm so impressed with FK3D's service.

 

I fitted one of the new parts this morning, this afternoon I've been chopping the bogie bosses so I can fit standard Bachmann B4 bogies with friction dampers instead of hydraulic dampers.

 

Everything fits a lot better now:

 

Thanks once again to both Will and FK3D for making these parts available.

 

Wow that was quick! I'm looking forward to the post now :) And potential G and GM vents :)

 

The new size looks great :) liking the look of the bogies too... something I need to look into too

[dj_crisp]

 

Its a subtle change and I'm now really happy with the end result!

[Flood]

Western Region Mk2E FO circa 1972-1978 with plated end water fillers and Western Region style train description boards (both from Accurascale Mk2B spares).

 

Bachmann B4 bogies with friction dampers fitted by reducing the diameter of the larger bogie boss, see photo below comparing Mk2F as bought above and Mk2E below.

 

Only remove enough from the diameter of the larger boss for the bogie to fit through, otherwise the bogie will slop backwards and forwards. The top smaller boss is then removed so the screw nicely holds the bogie in place with a little slack for poor track.

[dj_crisp]

39 minutes ago, Flood said:

Western Region Mk2E FO circa 1972-1978 with plated end water fillers and Western Region style train description boards (both from Accurascale Mk2B spares).

 

Bachmann B4 bogies with friction dampers fitted by reducing the diameter of the larger bogie boss, see photo below comparing Mk2F as bought above and Mk2E below.

 

Only remove enough from the diameter of the larger boss for the bogie to fit through, otherwise the bogie will slop backwards and forwards. The top smaller boss is then removed so the screw nicely holds the bogie in place with a little slack for poor track.

 

Hi Graham ! That looks excellent! I'm really impressed with how it looks painted... did you use any primer or painted directly. I'm a bit worried about the fan detail but seeing yours is really reassuring as i plan on airbrushing directly on. Where do the plated end water fillers live? Sorry my coach knowledge is still very limited!

 

cheers

Will

 

 

 

[dj_crisp]

I've also had a few hours to play with my MK2e...

 

 

Filed down the hatch and added a southern pride etch. On photos i think there is a circle thing that I've tried to make but may just ask FK3d if they'd like to expand their MK2d/e range of bits! If anyone has a good photo then please let me know... although I've got a few ok ones just nothing close up.

 

 

Chassis wise I've added a few bits of wire here and there.... I'm not planning on doing anthing more as only put on bits i could see on a fairly distant photo.

 

 

The other side I did even less.... mostly cause I was bored with bending wire (after doing roof handles for this and my attempted copy of Graham's TSOT).

 

Have to admit I'm quite enjoying playing with coaches!

[Flood]

1 hour ago, dj_crisp said:

 

Hi Graham ! That looks excellent! I'm really impressed with how it looks painted... did you use any primer or painted directly. I'm a bit worried about the fan detail but seeing yours is really reassuring as i plan on airbrushing directly on. Where do the plated end water fillers live? Sorry my coach knowledge is still very limited!

 

cheers

Will

 

 

 

Hi Will

I used Halfords grey plastic primer spray then Halfords camouflage brown spray. Their black spray is also excellent.

Looking through Colin Marsden's Rolling Stock Recognition:1 Coaching Stock (published 1983) every Mk2 has the water filler covers removed apart from one immaculate Mk2D FO (probably taken in 1971 as it has only 2 no smoking windows) and Mk2a with small 1960s numbers and no Inter-City. For a guess I would say the covers were removed around 1979/80 when the first overhauls were due.

Below is a photo of the ends of my Mk2E (left) and Mk2F(right). The water fillers are between the RCH cables and the handrails.

 

Edit: Looking through Profile of the Deltics I've found quite a bit Mk2D stock without covers around 1978/79 which would again be seven years from build (I'm sure I've heard somewhere that seven years is the timespan between coach overhauls). I've also found some photos of Mk2F coaches in 1976 with covers so they did have them from new, sadly Bachmann don't supply them and I haven't got another five pairs of Accurascale ones going spare. I have found a photo of W5986 without them in October 1976 so perhaps they were removed by some depots or just fell off anyway.

Edited July 15 by Flood

[dj_crisp]

Thanks Graham

I know understand what you're refering too!

cheers

Will

[dj_crisp]

I couldn't resist splashing some paint on to see how the test MK2e looks

 

 

I'm quite pleased with the effect so I'll expand the project onto some blue/grey examples! For this one I'll renumber and add Bachmann supplied details along with the others.... then weather them as a set. Also I'm going to research a few roof photos for the extra fittings which can be applied later.

 

 

The effect I was after.... different but pretty close to being the same :) Something I wouldn't be able to achieve using Hornby's effort. 

 

[WCML100]

Those mk2e’s looking the business. Was it a costly exercise to do? 
 

these images really give some nostalgia to the first Virgin livery (the virgin virgin livery?) - seriously looks good on these mk2’s! Very clean and striking!!

[The Fatadder]

Impressed with the outcome there, I have one mk2e to convert (all be it in my case from a 2d), along with a few more improvements to make to my 2d.  Will fire up the cad and have a crack I think...   Always somewhat reluctant to pay someone else to do something I can do myself

[dj_crisp]

2 hours ago, WCML100 said:

Those mk2e’s looking the business. Was it a costly exercise to do? 
 

these images really give some nostalgia to the first Virgin livery (the virgin virgin livery?) - seriously looks good on these mk2’s! Very clean and striking!!

 

I've not yet weathered these but plan on keeping the sides very clean as it's one of my favourite liveries of the privatised era.

 

Ignoring the coach costs my changes are to add hunt couplings in a kadee housing, keen floating plates, prints from FK3d and a southern pride roof hatch. None of these are that expensive especially so if buying in bulk due to postage. 

[dj_crisp]

2 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

Impressed with the outcome there, I have one mk2e to convert (all be it in my case from a 2d), along with a few more improvements to make to my 2d.  Will fire up the cad and have a crack I think...   Always somewhat reluctant to pay someone else to do something I can do myself

 

Very good! One day I may try to learn this CAD malarkey but until then I'm very happy for others to do the hard work :) I did get an insight into how hard it is to get these things to measure up.

[dj_crisp]

It's been a while since I posted anything DMU related and seeing as Bachmann have announced a few great additions to their range here's my latest 117 project that is pretty much finished.... It was intended on being my last heavyweight set 😱

 

 

This is an attempt to portray set 709 near the end of it's working life when it was plying it's trade on the St Ives & Looe Branches, but also I can let it roam around more of the western region with the nice destinations it displayed. This unit has been on the workbench for far too long with believe it or not the major pause down to it's route branding.

 

 

I've spent far too long to try and determine what the route branding should be... some photos it looked white, others with a dash of yellow and a recent find had a dash of red, Then watching a DVD on DMUs it was clear to me that my best guess should be "North London Lines" which I've taken a punt on! The decal is railtech which I've reduced the film in size to better hide the edges. All other transfers are my own drawn dry rub efforts.

 

Also (and sometimes i wonder why i do this) I've changed the guards handrails to be two part rather than one as supplied. It's not a difficult mod really... just needs some filler, a respray of Railmatch grey and a home mixed slap of  precision revised and early NSE Blue.

 

 

The roofs have been some fun with a representation of the pealing effect the unit suffered towards it's end. I think i described it earlier in the thread and if i do one again I'll paint the black thicker to get a stronger pealling affect.

 

 

The DMS has one modification which is rather hidden.... it's lost it's motor! Trials with my bubbles and a DTS has shown to me that despite these units being very light pulling or pushing a carriage is no problem so early on I decided to remove the motor and fit an unpowered bogie. The motor will hopefully end up in another project that hasn't yet started!

 

 

I'm pleased with Brian's laserglaze which i think improves the face of these no end. Also for this unit I've tried a bit of fading which is perhaps better than my phone photos suggest. All my usual extra underframe details have been down seeing as this one was completed underframe-wise with my others.

 

 

 

 

Usual mods for gangways and exhausts. One day I'll get round to finding a solution for inter-connecting cables now there's loads of space following getting rid of the awful Bachmann coupling.

 

 

 

So overall quite pleased with how this one has turned out.... just needs a spot of running in and a few DCC settings tweaked then it's good to go!

 

 

 

Now I really mustn't get distrated with anymore of these..... Damm you Bachmann!

 

 

[dj_crisp]

A slow burner project of mine (ok i admit one of my many slow burner projects) is a class 156 super sprinter. I've never intended buying one of the rather nice Realtrack examples as most really don't fit in to my modelling needs but a chassis came up on that well known auction site that was really too cheap to ignore so I bought it thinking I'd put it in a lima example. I haven't kept much of my childhood stuff but one item i have is my trusty Lima sprinter which believe it or not was probably my smoothest runner at the time and probably one of the reasons why I'm still in this hobby.

 

Anyhow randomly a provincial pair of bodyshells popped up on that well known auction site and hey presto my Lima sprinter will forever be..... as it was when i last ran it 25 years ago (or more)

 

Being a newly tooled model there's alot of the model to like so I'm hoping it's more a case of refining whats there... and in my case repairing and making the missing bits to try and make a complete sprinter.

 

 

First up is making it a bit more old generation which is adding IOo lights. I've drilled these out and will eventually fit a shawplan etch on these. The fun bit will be illuminating them and so I'm going to have to do something homemade (similar to my Hornby 67 attempt). Not looking forward to that! I'm probably going to leave the roofs alone and let this one be a mid 90s example as i doubt i can remove the radio stuff neatly. Now i don't know if I was just lucku as my shells had a horrible lemon yellow that certainly challenges Dapol for my least liked yellow. So I've resprayed the yellow and this did mean i needed to renumber so nearly lost any remaining sanity lining up those numbers individually (they're dry rub btw).

 

 

 

I'm not sure if modern versions have gangway connectors that are more full than the old ones.... or it's a memory of a Lima models but i didn't like the depth. So in the photo above there is a before and after shot of me taking quite a bit off the rear of the gangway connector. It makes it a bit more squashed looking which i think fits my timeline. It  does mean that the brackets at the bottom are now attached to the body shell so I can never take the front gangways off!

 

If you're a regular reader you probably know my pet hate is gaps in gangways between coaches. I'd much rather have something that isn't right filling the gap than having a gap....

 

 

So out can the saw and I've chopped the end off and fitted a keen sprung Mk2 connector plate that I just happen to have a few in stock for other projects and so I've shaped it to be more like a sprinter verson.

 

 

 I think it'll work! Next will be setting the couplings but thats a way off.

 

 

This shot has only been included as I've had a go at opening the exhaust out by using minidrills. The other body shell's exhaust was broken on arrival but thankfully the required repair will be hidden.

 

The interior was one of those fitted with passengers..... which are horrendous. I'm still in two minds on fitting passengers and drivers etc. to any of models but seeing as even my wide notices them not being there I probably should get round to fitting some oneday. If i do they won't be the nasty plastic looking ones bought in bulk from China. They had to go which meant fixing the interior as they're superglued in and so forced a repaint. 

 

 

This has taken far longer than it should with 3 or 4 coats brush painted on - it just shows up my lack of painting skills but at least it'll be hidden! I've sprayed it gloss as my cunning plan is to attempt to use a CAD program to draw so pointers for the seats. Sadly my CAD skills are currently below zero so the interior may take along time!

 

Enjoy the summer!

Will

[43179]

On 07/08/2024 at 14:11, dj_crisp said:

 

 

 

Now I really mustn't get distrated with anymore of these..... Damm you Bachmann!

 

 

and then they go and announce a Regional 117 🙂

[dj_crisp]

1 hour ago, 43179 said:

and then they go and announce a Regional 117 🙂

 

Very nice it is as well.... and a nice NSE bubble. It was a good set of announcements and at this stage for me thankfully not a RR 101 though! (Although I'd really like them to upgrade the 101 in line with the 117/121)

[dj_crisp]

I'm kinda bored of seeing my super BGs on the workbench so have done a final push to sort of finish them. I say sort of finished as i can see loads of extra detailing that I could do... but tbh there are other projects that really should take priority! They'll run as a fixed four car set on my layout and seeing as I've got the lights working they now have a fixed front and back!

 

Super BG 1 (with tail lights and for some fun a guards light)

 

 

To finish them off the underframes have had some new weathering as I didn't like the original builders splattered effect. So the underframes have been blasted with an airbrush and then highlighted using acrylics.

 

Super BG 2

 

 

 

I remember when the RES livery came out and the opinion was that it was too garish! Never understood quite what it was about but at least the flashes of blue add some interest.

 

Super BG 3

 

 

Super BG 4

 

 

The original builder did wire in some lights so I've just adapted it slightly and added a 8 pin socket... nothing revolutionary. Also added a guards light while the body was off

 

With lots of sticky blac tac stuff to remove light bleed I'm quite pleased with the effect. (My phone camera has over-exposed the lights so they look brighter than they are);

 

 

 

And they nicely fit in the bay.... which i really don't think would be right but my have this as a working for mild interest.

 

 

And if you're interested here's a link to my check videos which i watch to see the many running faults my efforts have!

 

Forwards

 

 

Backwards

 

 

 

Happy Modelling!

Will

 

[The Fatadder]

That reminds me I need to have a go at modelling a super bg with the visible window playing.  Really nice job on them!

[dj_crisp]

Sorry this is me just noting my thoughts on couplings and apologies if it's not of interest! One thing I haven't sorted out and it's probably about time that i do is which coupling to use.

 

I'm happy with Hunt magnetic for between coaches and DMUs so won't be changing those especially as they're so hard to see. Also I'm after an easy coupling for coupling locos to coaches and so kadees are currently winning. Freight stock is a different matter as the old kadee does look a bit clunky..... Although my more modern stuff they look ok to me 😉

 

A quick task just done is to convert some MBAs to EM and change couplings;

 

 

While they're a bit big the Hunt Magnetic nicely fits into Bachmanns provided slot. I'm guessing... maybe this coupling was designed for this or a similar wagon rather than using kadee housing I do! Anyhow i think it's a little long so I moved Bachmanns pivot inwards by 1mm and so ended up closing the gap by 2mm or so. I think it looks quite nice with this small and subtle tweak. I also enjoyed removing the horrible NEM coupling from the bogies with a snip!

 

 

One thing that i really like with Hunts is there is very little slack, so wagons or coaches coupled together move together and don't have the loose coupled effect that pretty much most alternative coupling has. The obvious down side is everything is fixed (excluding the hand in the sky 😉 )

 

So onto alternatives.... I still think the kadee is probably best for automatic couplings, and i may have another attempt at Dinghams to see if i can build them consistently to change my mind. So thats the options for outers for couplings. Looks a bit naff but functionally works well, no hand in the sky and while there is some slack it's not too bad;

 

 

 

Next up is the trusty 3 link coupling.

 

 

It is the best looking option so far and I've settled on smiths - the overscale hook gives me a fighting chance at coupling but tbh they're not much fun. I've abandoned scale alternatives as they just uncoupled around the layout and are a right pain to couple up. So thoughts have moved to an alternative...

 

 

 

Namely being a Smiths Hook/Bit of Wire/Accurascale Magnet Mashup. They're designed for those small old coal wagons so come in a pack with fine chain. I've only used the magnet in my bodge attempt but I think it may have promise. 

 

 

From the side it's pretty hard to tell the difference. I'm going to have a go at a Mk2 bodge trying a shorter link as the gap is quite large (although similar to the instanter - i can never set it at the shortened position).

 

So far there are some downsides.

1. Firstly the magnet pretty much fell out of my first coupling. I can't see they've used any glue so I've super glued it in.

2. in construction you need to line the magnets up so when they meet they click together the magnetic poles line up and the coupling looks a bit natural. I guess thats whats going on... my first attempt didn't work so I'm blaming something like that. When using the chain supplied this doesn't matter as the twist of the fine chain allows any inconsistencies but to be fair to accurascale i think they must check this in manufactoring.

3. I need to remove the springs used to spring the coupling hook as they're magnetic! TBH i'm never sure springing the hook is needed - is it a bad idea to remove?

4. As with all magnetic couplings auto un-coupling isn't an option (unless some clever person can invent an electromatic option.... or one thats thats very strong and breaks the magnetic bond.... Hmmm)

5. The gap is quite large and there is still the loose coupled effect when running - Hopefully Mk2 bodge improves this.

6. How strong are they? They don't have the reassuriing strength the Hunt couplings have and on the work bench they seemed very weak. However layout testing with some not very free rolling, unsprung and fixed buffers wagons there were no issues.

 

 

Pleasingly this lot (and a few more out of shot) managed to go back and forward across all of the points in all directions and didn't fall off. Which is somewhat suprising!

 

So I think it's worth carrying on testing. I haven't decided on these as being the coupling of choice over 3 links for inbetween sets,  although if my Mk2 mashup is better (being shorter) then that should improve things visibly and reduce the loose coupled effect.

 

Anyhow I'll be really interested in your thoughts and anyone who's had long term use of the Accurascale magentic coupling? 

 

cheers

Will

 

 

 

[cravensdmufan]

18 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

One thing I haven't sorted out and it's probably about time that i do is which coupling to use.

A very interesting post, Will.

 

For years I have been meaning to do something about my couplings. Particularly for rakes of Bachmann Mk1s and 2s. Even with the smoothest locos at slow speeds and over good track they seem to spring backwards and forwards between themselves. I've tried the supplied "pipe" connecters which do look better, but of course they are tricky to join and separate when you want to change the make up of the rake. 

 

I'd thought of the Hunt magnetic couplings - do they cure the "springing" problem?

[dj_crisp]

On 15/08/2024 at 12:14, cravensdmufan said:

A very interesting post, Will.

 

For years I have been meaning to do something about my couplings. Particularly for rakes of Bachmann Mk1s and 2s. Even with the smoothest locos at slow speeds and over good track they seem to spring backwards and forwards between themselves. I've tried the supplied "pipe" connecters which do look better, but of course they are tricky to join and separate when you want to change the make up of the rake. 

 

I'd thought of the Hunt magnetic couplings - do they cure the "springing" problem?

 Thanks Vivian - Pleased the post was of interest.

 

I know what you mean about the springing loose coupled effect - and it's high on my list of pet hates! On their own the Hunts provide a fixed contact at the point of coupling contact. So straight away they remove the slop of a standard coupling and say a kadee (which i used to use). Using the close coupling mechs you'll end up with the same amount of springing problem as you see with the pipe connectors... but they are an absolute breeze to couple up and have strong magnets for their size so I'd expect full rakes to be no problems. I run fixed rakes and this method means I need outer coaches that stay the same and vary the inners. (Inners being fully Hunt, outers being Hunt with a Kadee on the end for loco coupling).

 

Doing the above doesn't fully solve the "springing effect" but i think you'll see a worthwhile improvement. However if you're interested below are my steps which really makes a difference as I decided early on that I wanted to get rid the gap between coaches and have next to no springing effect.

 

I'm usinig the Hunt coupling which fits into kadee housings - above shows the two types with my preference being the one on the right as it's more usefull having a short back to it (i think a 252). I fit them at bufferbeam level so chop the buffer beam so they fit flush to the floor and across Bachmann and accurascale products this has worked well (the Accurascale Mk2b has a slot almost made to fit the kadee housing on the left ;) ). Height doesn't have to be perfect for these to work but is another area i try to improve in anycase (thinking about those Mk1s!). The advantages of this set up is there is less slop than the close couplings mechs but i think I end up with a slightly larger gap without the close couplings mechs. It's a trade off of close coupling Vs something less on show with less slop but still about 1mm movement (which you could eliminate by not using kadee housing and say just use a large screw the size of the opening in the hunt coupling).

 

 

 

 

The final change I make is to fit keen floating endplates. These work with springs effectively trying to push the coaches apart. This is great as they maintain (pushing or pulling) the distance between the coaches. Now if you're heavy handed with a controller you can still get a bit of a springing effect but that doesn't matter as the loco movement is rubbish in anycase.  You however don't get the slight springing effect when running along the track you describe and it's quite nice watching these all move as one.

 

 

 

 

My couplings are set to go round a 4ft radius curve...

 

so the buffers very nearly touch! One note on corridor connectors is I chop off the end plate to allow a closer coupling, Bachmann is solid plastic, Accurascale isn't so you need some filler. All are then painted black before i take on weathering. Seeing as my DMUs have very nice srung buffers I allow the buffers to work which if i changed my coaching stock I could an even closer fit.

 

I hope this helps!  Overall I've done about 25 coaches and a number of DMUs and they don't take long to do. If you want to maintain the close coupling mech I'd recommend trying a hunt coupling (although I'm not sure which one) and also fit a keen endplate as combined I'm sure you'll be happier!

 

cheers

Will