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Even more on the 'Tin' HAL unit


SRman

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The first group of photos shows the hook and loop coupling system I devised, bent up from stiff brass wire. The hook is a simple 'Z' (or 'N' if you prefer!) shape with one end stuck into the floor and the other projecting downwards. There is a small groove cut into the headstock to locate the hook and stop it from swivelling. The loop is also sitting in the floor and a slot in the headstock but is made quite wide to allow for the end throws of the coaches on curves - by sheer luck I got this right first time.

 

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... and coupled together it looks like this:

 

 

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The second group of photos shows the unit as running at present, still with no glazing, no transfers and some detailing still to go but operational. At the DTC end only I have fitted some Roxey Models etched brass headcode stencils, although they have picked up some of the resin filings from my work on the unit, something I hadn't noticed until I took the photo! Sorry the depth of field is not very good on these - the shot I took from the other end of the unit was unusable. The stencils needed quite a bit of trimming to fit and even now are still a little oversized for the aperture - not sure if the model is undersize or the etchings are oversize.

 

I am seriously considering drilling out the headcode at the other end and fitting a directional LED to light it up in the forward direction.

 

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I wasn't very impressed with some of the earlier Ayjay models EMUs, but this looks rather good. The separate jumper cables do help a lot.

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The Ayjay kit is not perfect but it is a very good starting point. Some of the detail is a bit on the heavy side, like the original moulded-on jumper cables, the heavy cab window surrounds and the roof and end conduits but for those prepared to put in a little extra work, the result can be very promising; I am certainly happy with the way it is shaping up.

 

I do keep looking at the roofs and thinking I might replace the conduits, although the lighting cables are reasonably fine and won't be touched if I do decide to proceed that way.

 

I am also debating whether to replace the moulded resin buffers with some white metal items I have.

 

Ideally, I should flush glaze all the side windows and cab windscreens (not the droplights though) but I can't see me putting in that much effort - I will do the windscreens flush and maybe the large corridor side windows, but not all the smaller compartment side windows. I will also curve the side glazing using some hot water to set the clear material.

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