Very nicely done.  You've definitely done the test print of this kit justice, - it looks superb.

Thanks, Annie. It’s a credit to Stephen’s diligence with the digital model as much as anything I have done. But, yes, I am very pleased with how it has come out, especially as it is such an iconic wagon for the ‘old’ GWR which was in the process of disappearing in my 1908 period.

Nick.

The level of detail from the 3d print is excellent, I can't see any surface lining at all. The external bracing metalwork is particularly sharp. I think you made the right choice with added wire details, gives space between them and the print. 

Very nice. 

3 hours ago, magmouse said:

But, yes, I am very pleased with how it has come out, especially as it is such an iconic wagon for the ‘old’ GWR which was in the process of disappearing in my 1908 period.

I have a couple or three in red on my Minehead branch project.  Definitely an iconic wagon for the real GWR.

9 hours ago, Dave John said:

The level of detail from the 3d print is excellent, I can't see any surface lining at all.

Zoom in on the end view of the finished wagon, and you'll see the lines on the corner plates, where I couldn't't get a scraper without risking the nut/bolt detail. They are though completely invisible at normal viewing distances.

9 hours ago, Dave John said:

I think you made the right choice with added wire details, gives space between them and the print.

Yes - it's important not to see 3D printing (or any other material/process) as the answer to everything. Having said that, Stephen tells me he is going to have another go at doing the chains as part of the print - previous attempts were too fragile.

Nick.

9 hours ago, Miss Prism said:

When were the brakeblocks upgraded to the first metal types? 1890?

Swindon drawing number 12 has wooden brake blocks, as modelled here. The drawing itself is undated, but has a note saying it applies to lot 167, completed February 1878. Further lots were built in 1881. In between, in December 1879, a 'pattern wagon' was built with a wrought iron underframe - presumably a test for the iron under frames that were introduced later.

Drawing 4441 of 1884 shows a similar wagon, but with iron underframe and iron brake shoes. So iron shoes come in for these wagons between 1881 and 1884.

The wooden blocks lasted a long time, at least in some cases. There is a photo in Great Western Way of this type of wagon (p.117, 2009 edition), with wooden underframe and brake shoes, which is dated 1906.

On a related note, the digital model Stephen has done is for a wagon with the diagonal framing meeting the corners at the top, making a 'W' shape with the door diagonals. Most had the frame diagonals going the other way. The only photo I have seen of a W framed wagon is the one in GWW, and the only drawing is Len Tavender's in Railway Equipment Drawings - itself based on a mix of sources. Stephen's model is therefore a composite of these and Swindon drawing no. 12, so not guaranteed 100% accurate, but the best we could do with the available information.

Curiously, the GWW photo and the Tavender drawing show a straight brake lever, rather than the curved type in drawing 12. Possibly the levers were changed later, though it is curious if this was done without changing the wooden brake blocks for metal ones. I have modelled the straight lever, partly because it is in the GWW photo, but mainly because Stephen accidentally sent me the wrong one - his model is designed with a curved lever.

Nick.

Thanks, Mike. I should probably clarify a remark I made at the end of the blog post, saying this was less work than a scratch build. It was less work - for me. A huge amount of work has been done by Stephen to made the digital model. One benefit of digital models is parts can be reused, of course, so the axle boxes, buffers, and so on will go into other digital models of similar wagons of the period. Stephen has also developed an iron under framed version of this wagon.

Nick.

33 minutes ago, Chrisbr said:

Would be fun to model a wooden brake shoe half worn.... anyone know how far they were allowed to wear down before replacement?

An interesting question. An audit of photos showing wagons with wooden shoes might suggest the answer. The drawing is a little hard to interpret but there seems to be a pivot where the metal strip on the back of the block meets the underside of the underframe. Presumably the block could wear down until there was little wood left at the thinest point. The amount of adjustment provided by the holes at the other end of the push rods suggests the blocks could go to around one third of their original thickness.

Nick.

Very nicely done!

1 hour ago, Malcolm Trevena said:

That is a superb piece of design and modelling, I would like one! Will they be avaliable to purchase anytime soon?

Thanks, Malcolm. Stephen has some thoughts about making them available, but I don't think I should say any more than that - he want to comment. Or send a PM.

1 hour ago, Malcolm Trevena said:

There is one other wagon that I suggest would be useful on Netherport ( and coincidentally on my own layout ) the Diagram S7 4 wheel fish wagon, any chance?

Yes, definitely on the list for Netherport. Not sure if Stephen has plans for an S7, but @drduncan has done one in 4mm scale and we have talked about a 7mm version. Duncan is seeing this as a 'solebars-and-up' model, so some thought would need to be given to the running gear.

Nick.

What an excellent model, Nick and Stephen.

I have been wondering what we should call the work of finalising 3D prints. We've got kit-building, RTR bashing, etc. But what is this? "3D modelling" doesn't really capture it. The work of making the prints is quite a different skillset from  finishing them. And there are variants of course: Straightforward finalisation of a print, or detailing a print, or modifying/converting prints. I shall ponder this today along with the meaning of life and how it all began,

An interesting question, Mikkel. The process feels closest to kit-building, other than there aren't very many parts to assemble. There is still a need for a bit of fettling (removing supports and cleaning up any resulting blemishes, and making sure everything fits just so), then painting, lettering and weathering. Most of what is needed is a sub-set of the skills for kit building, with a bit of a learning curve because the resin doesn't behave in quite the same way as the plastic used for injection moulded kits.

You mention detailing a print - this van is a good example of where some details may be better made with other materials (such as the door bolts). For wheels, buffers and couplings, while it is possible to 3DP them, my preference would always be for more traditional methods and materials. You also mention modifying/converting prints - ideally, this is done in the digital domain. 3DP doesn't scale well for volume production, but is very well suited for making lots of variations on the basic model - as Stephen has indicated, alternative brake gear and axle boxes are easy to do, and he has already drawn the iron underframed version of this van with the diagonals going the other way.

Print finishing, perhaps? Any new term should make it clear the bulk of the work is in the digital domain and the printing, I feel.

Nick.

23 hours ago, magmouse said:

An interesting question, Mikkel. The process feels closest to kit-building, other than there aren't very many parts to assemble. There is still a need for a bit of fettling (removing supports and cleaning up any resulting blemishes, and making sure everything fits just so), then painting, lettering and weathering. Most of what is needed is a sub-set of the skills for kit building, with a bit of a learning curve because the resin doesn't behave in quite the same way as the plastic used for injection moulded kits.

 

You mention detailing a print - this van is a good example of where some details may be better made with other materials (such as the door bolts). For wheels, buffers and couplings, while it is possible to 3DP them, my preference would always be for more traditional methods and materials. You also mention modifying/converting prints - ideally, this is done in the digital domain. 3DP doesn't scale well for volume production, but is very well suited for making lots of variations on the basic model - as Stephen has indicated, alternative brake gear and axle boxes are easy to do, and he has already drawn the iron underframed version of this van with the diagonals going the other way.

 

Print finishing, perhaps? Any new term should make it clear the bulk of the work is in the digital domain and the printing, I feel.

 

Nick.

Interesting observations, Nick. "Print finishing" could work, although perhaps it belittles the proces a little, since it does require time and effort. Those with dozens of neatly printed but unfinished prints will probably agree with that 🙂. And it requires skills too, of course, as your van illustrates.

I have been doing what could perhaps be called "print modding" myself recently. I find it a pleasing enough task, similar to kit modification. With the more durable materials now being used it is also easier than with the brittle stuff. Ideally I would like to continue with that, as I find it a bit uninspiring if there is no "building" element to things. Still, it may remain a very niche activity! (and I am reluctant about possible health issues, little is known about health effects of post-curing work on 3D prints, e.g. sanding, filing and glueing them).

39 minutes ago, Coal Tank said:

Hi Nick, would the numbers have been on the ends before 1900. I know nothing about GWR wagons.

John 

In Great Western Way, it states that the practice of putting the number on the end started around 1893, the same time as the "G.W.R" lettering on the wagon sides moved from the left to the right (swapping with the running number). As with all these things, there isn't absolute certainty about dates, but if you have the G.W.R on the right, you should probably have the running numbers on the end, but if you have followed the earlier scheme of G.W.R on the left, you probably shouldn't.

Again, according to GWW, end numbers stopped around the early 1930s, so wagons with large, 25" GW lettering should have them, and those with 16" GW should have them if painted before the early 30s.

As always, an (accurately dated!) picture is your best guide, but easier said than done, sometimes.

Nick.