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GWR large flat dray


Mikkel

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Here's the third and last instalment about my recent trio of horse drawn wagons. This is yet another GWR "dray", as they are commonly known. GWR drawings generally use the term "trolley", which I understand was the original and more correct term for what is today popularly called drays.

 

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The wagon was built from an old Pendon kit, picked up on ebay. There is no mention of the prototype, but it resembles a 7 ton trolley drawing in the Great Western Horsepower book.

 

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An illustration of the variation in length and width of three kits for flat drays/trolleys – nicely reflecting how the prototypes varied too, as vehicles do of course. On the left is a Dart Castings offering (see earlier post), and on the right is the Slater’s kit which really is quite large. The Pendon kit is the middle one.

 

 

 

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The only structural modification I made was the addition of the rear flap (is there a proper name?). These are usually in the down position, held by chains.

 

 

 

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The main part of the project involved modifying the horse, the carter (aka carman) and "van lad".

 

 

 

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The horse is from the Dart Castings stable. The photo above illustrates some of their range (no connection), with the measurements as stated in their lists. I like their 1:87 draft horse, which has the bulk of a strong horse but isn’t visually overpowering, as I think some horses can be in a layout context.

 

 

 

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I had a couple of these horses so modified one of them by raising its head. The neck from a discarded old Langley horse helped achieve this.

 

 

 

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On the left is the original figure by Dart Castings (as used on my “Ratkin & Son" wagon), on the right is the modified one.

 

 

 

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Similar work was done to make the carter, using a Dart Castings body and an Andrew Stadden head. Period photos and

show that on flat drays like these, carters very often sat on the left side, like this. Presumably it is the safest and most practical position when you have to get on and off frequently, as they did.

 

 

 

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The van lad was made by modifying an Andrew Stadden figure, as seen here. He has not yet reached the grade that allows him to wear a uniform.

 

 

 

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A load was made using surplus items from the goods depot, e.g. my DIY cotton bales and crates, and various kits and ready-made items.

 

 

 

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I added some indicative roping from EZ line. Just a couple of ropes, as too much of this sort of thing tends to distract the eye in my view. In any case, the roping and packing practices on horsedrawn vehicles seems to have been more relaxed than on the permanent way. Two examples here and here.

 

 

 

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The other side. I tried to avoid colour clashes when building the load.

 

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And finally the wagon in place on the layout. That concludes this little series of horsey updates for now. Keep on trotting!

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7 hours ago, ChrisN said:

 

What size figures is he talking about?

Nominally 25mm head to toe but they have grown to 28mm over the years with various figure designers so the scale is now accepted as 1:56. However I believe these techniques and more recent approaches are used on 15mm figures (head to toe).

D

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  • RMweb Gold

Thank you Duncan. I can see how some military (and fantasy) modellers must have good experience with horse-painting.


He has a good point about darker shades towards the hooves, although that is just one variety – the shades can also be lighter towards the hooves:

 

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The method of blending in a new colour while the previous layer is wet can be very effective. But it does need to be speedy work with acrylics, because they dry faster than the enamels he uses – especially Vallejo.

 

I personally disagree with his argument that shading should be bold. I think bold shading looks odd in the smaller scales when photographed up close, as we increasingly do. But that’s just my preference.

 

Scale does make a difference as to what is possible, I think, especially when it comes to facial features. Some things just don’t work well in the smaller scales. E.g. lack of detail on the casting/print, or things being very close together. For example, eyebrows can be very effective, but often they sit so close to the eyes in 1:76 that it just looks odd if you paint them in.
 

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  • RMweb Gold
4 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Thank you Duncan. I can see how some military (and fantasy) modellers must have good experience with horse-painting.


He has a good point about darker shades towards the hooves, although that is just one variety – the shades can also be lighter towards the hooves:

 

shades.JPG.30f430bedf2caeeff1d95efcc429dbb2.JPG

 

The method of blending in a new colour while the previous layer is wet can be very effective. But it does need to be speedy work with acrylics, because they dry faster than the enamels he uses – especially Vallejo.

 

I personally disagree with his argument that shading should be bold. I think bold shading looks odd in the smaller scales when photographed up close, as we increasingly do. But that’s just my preference.

 

Scale does make a difference as to what is possible, I think, especially when it comes to facial features. Some things just don’t work well in the smaller scales. E.g. lack of detail on the casting/print, or things being very close together. For example, eyebrows can be very effective, but often they sit so close to the eyes in 1:76 that it just looks odd if you paint them in.
 

 

Contrast tend to be more bold in wargamming, se we have to be careful.  Next time I have a horse to paint, (I think I musty have up to half a dozen waiting), plus a spare half hour, (in much shorter supply), I will try and see what I can do, although I have tended to undercoat in grey recently.

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  • RMweb Gold

That would be interesting to see, thanks Chris. Perhaps if there is a transition from high to low contrast it might look good.

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