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RT Models Hudson Tipper - part 2.


halfwit

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The tipper body is now complete and ready for a coat of primer. To get it this far I've punched out 244 rivets and soldered no less than 24 seperate etched detail parts onto the body. All this results in a highly detailed body, the bar has been set high for any future RT Models etched wagon kits!

 

Here's a few images of the build;

 

blogentry-6749-0-35443700-1360516626_thumb.jpg

 

In the pic. above you can see that the lower bodyside 'u' channel has been folded and soldered in place, followed by the base of the 'T' channel above it, the end strengthening strip (angled at the ends) and the base for pivot.

 

In the pic. below the end stops are being folded and soldered in place, note the half etched recess for positioning;

 

blogentry-6749-0-29766800-1360516638_thumb.jpg

 

The pivot strip itself, getting the shape right was a bit of a pain, with a strengthening strip above;

 

blogentry-6749-0-93521000-1360516650_thumb.jpg

 

Back to the side of the body, the middle strip of the 'T' section is now in place, and I'm soldering the narrow half-etched upper rivet strip in place, the ends will be bent around then soldered in place once I'm happy with the bodyside positioning. This strip is hardly noticable to be honest, but I'm glad that its there;

 

blogentry-6749-0-25745500-1360516662_thumb.jpg

 

 

And a final view of the end, note the 'T' section in the middle of the pivot;

 

blogentry-6749-0-95825800-1360516675_thumb.jpg

 

All of the soldering done with my Antex XS25, Eileen's 188 degree solder and Eileen's Strong Flux. Everything fitted as it should into half-etched rebates with the minimum of fettling. And it wasn't as fiddly or as tricky as it looks!

 

The chassis next.

 

Paul.

  • Like 11

5 Comments


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  • RMweb Gold

What a neat build.

 

Rivet counters may not be popular, but it's amazing what rivets do for realism.

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Thanks for the comments, and the 'likes'.

 

Mikkel - rivet counters may not be popular but we should be thankfull for those that get the small details right, because if the designer has taken care of the small details then there's a good chance that the rest of the kit/model will stand close scrutiny.

 

DD - if it looks half as good as Adam's build then I'll be happy.

 

Paul.

  • Like 2
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  • RMweb Gold

Really lovely work Paul.

 

Looks like a great kit to build and you've demonstrated some neat and tidy soldering skills.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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Thanks Mark.

 

I would usually use 2 different temperature solders on an assembly like this, 188 for structural work and 145 for detailing. However, as nickel silver is much nicer to solder that brass, conducting heat away quicker and being generally cleaner, I've stuck to 188 for the whole assembly. Which makes for neater soldering as 188 flows better than 145. I used small chips of solder cut from solder wire, placed on the job where needed, which meant that the solder only went where I wanted it to go, keeping cleaning to a minimum.

 

Paul.

  • Like 1
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